IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by QUICRNU

I would be curious about the temp data on this. She is right in the line of fire of the heat rising up off the header. Perhaps it won't matter, but let us know what you find.

Well, happy to report no increase in coolant temps. 30 minute drive highway and stoplights. Let the car sit 15 minutes. Temps did not rise will sitting or driving (checked with my temp probe once I stopped). Aeroforce gauge showed the same temp range as before. 60° out today.

Once we get into the 90s I know for sure but, more capacity and no increase in coolant Temps!

-Don

[hammdo]

Well, I'm ECSTATIC to report that the extra coolant capacity lowered my IAT2 temps 3° to 6°! I compared what the average 'over ambient' I have been running (26° to 28°) and today I was running 22° to 25° over!

After running about an hour and a half, on the highway, I was averaging 22° over -- now its 55° out but still, the range between Ambient and IAT2 has always been consistent no matter how hot ambient is -- @ 100° I've recently been at 126° to 128° over on the highway (remember I added the bigger trans cooler so temps went up slightly) -- so that is going to be great news when ambient temps get up!

Considering I'm also running E85, combustion temps will be well managed!

I'd call this upgrade a success!

-Don

[hammdo]

So started another project -- rear belly pan!

Created my cardboard template and got it sized up:



Trimmed up:



Now, ABS plastic next!

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, next level of work is the actual ABS with supporting ABS riveted to add structure:




Shaped to curve around the exhaust with enough clearance.

Now that this is done, I'll start the installation!

-Don

[hammdo]

So, I continued today to install my new rear belly pan -- fitment is perfect -- only item left is the 1" access hole for the battery tender connection. I'll be using these to plug that opening:



Here is the pan installed:

Routed for final fit:





Drilled and final fit:




















Test drive tonight!

-Don

[hammdo]

Well, thought I was going to test drive -- we'll see. Another bolt support broke on the absorber so I'm fixing that with JB weld -- takes 4 hrs so once that is cured, I'll re-assemble things.

Here is my cutout for the battery tender (1" holesaw and 1" Dorman body plug):




this will let me have access to the plug without burning my arm on the exhaust ;o)

-Don

[Ashen 6.2]

Looking good Don!

[hammdo]

Thanks! I continue to be surprised at how weak those absorber bolt shelf’s appear to be. But, JB Weld sure does help!

-Don

[hammdo]

Finally, the JB Weld did its job and I was able to put it all back together. Took it for an hour long drive --- no noise or 'buffeting' of the rear diffuser -- The charger plug stayed in which means no air forcing it out. This looks like a perfect way to route under-carrage air. The only issue I ran into was the charger wire -- I'll probably have to either make the hole bigger or add a second one to make getting the wire out easier -- outside of that, very pleased. I also notice the rear diffuser is solid -- meaning it does not move @ the lower 'bolted' on area.

Here is the wire exposed so I can plug in the charger:



I may have someone follow me just to make sure nothing is amiss while driving...

This one looks like a winner!

-Don

[hammdo]

Well, this is my next update (splitter):

https://zl1addons.com/products/copy-...nt=27750282241




Then, may do some interior updates from Redline... Not go fast stuff but, something to improve the looks with the Recaros...

Alcantara style...

-Don

[hammdo]

Mid 50's today so I had to take the car out!

Started it up -- check engine light -- pretty much knew what it was. Used the BlueDriver to confirm -- yup -- P0178 -- Fuel Composition Low Circuit (Flex Fuel). I figured it had to be where I grounded the harness.

What I did this time was isolate this ground from its current location. For me to be sure, I used an ohm meter to check from the wire to the ground. What I got was 000.3 -- and that is not good. It should have been 000.0. The PCM expects a perfect ground so it can send its signal and get a reading -- BTW, the Alcohol content on the Aeroforce read perfect -- 77% to 78% and no issues -- very steady.

So I took off the connector, unbolted the ground and checked the wire -- it was 000.0. With that, I simply move the ground to its own location. Bolted the ground down, and checked again -- 000.0 -- grounded. Installed the connector, cleared the code, started it up and ran it -- code disappeared.

Stopped and started 4 times -- all good so far.

I'll need to drive it a few times just to confirm but, my gut says that was it.

Now, to test the connector, I used the OEM pin connector that fits:



Known good ground location now (Flex fuel sensor wire ground on the right):



And after several tests/scans:



I'll do another run tomorrow just to make sure nothing shows up.

I should have taken a pic of the BlueDriver -- it showed and ECM P0178, a Pending P0178 and a Confirmed P0178 (light was on).

After clearing and running a few times, it showed just the Permanent code (now has no pending or current P0010 codes since I updated the tune).

At least now, I no longer see the ECM P0178 or Pending P0178 code...

Now, it could have been the 'content' of the fuel (another option) but, I fill it up often so it does not get a chance to 'sit' long -- so I ruled that out. If you get the DSX coil harness -- I doubt you'll see this -- I just happen to do this setup when I was having issues with the signal going in and out (remember, I had to replace my old coil harness?).

BTW, she drove REALLY nice in this mid 50's temp and rear belly pan working great!

-Don

[QUICRNU]

Have you looked at the APR splitter? I like it.

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by QUICRNU

Have you looked at the APR splitter? I like it.

Yes, but with this one I don’t need the supports. Also, they use a ‘honeycomb’ sandwich (cf , honeycomb, cf) which will be overkill for what I’m doing racing wise. I’m lowered and with 2" of front splitter (minimum, I have 1" now), will do me just fine.

Right now, shes planted pretty good but, the rear spoiler is pushing the rear down more than the front so I just want to equalize the aero. The poor mans way to see this effect is to take pics as I come down a straightaway (high speed ones) and look at the gap of the wheels/tires from the fender to the top of the wheels/tires just before you hit the brakes or let off the gas:



If you look here, you’ll see the rear gap looks closer to the top of the tire vs the front — that was before the wicker bill.

So, for me, I’m adding a bit more front splitter to compensate for the wicker bill and rear belly pan. I’ll take it out again and get someone to take pics for me — probably when I go to NCM in March — at the end of the straightaway just before the braking zone...

Much faster than a 66 mph wind tunnel ;o)

Like the APR, just don’t think I need it...

-Don

[QUICRNU]

Originally Posted by hammdo

Like the APR, just don’t think I need it...

-Don

I like and understand everything you said up until this point.....

I need one..because......they look freaking awesome!

I am just paralyzed by considering a T1 or ZL1 front fascia.....and then Hood vs Hood Vents..... sooo I am waiting til I can pull the trigger on some stuff.... I am also kinda partial to the Stock front bumper with an APR on it..... decisions.

AKA..you have some time to still get the APR so you can say you had it before me.......




The car looks awesome in this shot.... I also like that ABS belly pan you made, nice and Hammdo quality as we all demand! Very cool