SS/1LE Hawk Brake Pad Learnings

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

I recently changed from the stock Brembo pads on all four corners to Hawk DTC-30's on the front and Hawk HP+'s on the rear. Then I ran Laguna Seca a week ago and man did the car slow down like a lightweight Honda. But afterwards my front rotors squealed like mad w/o the brakes, constantly, particularly when the rotors were warm. It was embarrassing to drive in town squeaking all the down the boulevard and not a good way to represent the Chevy badge. :thumb down: Yes, I properly burnished the brakes before hand. No, I didn't do too much trail braking that day except on turn 2.

Upon going back to my local brake and alignment shop they inspected the rotors. The rotors were rutted, dark and flashing. With a pen you could feel all kinds of pits and you visually inspect where the brakes "flashed" the rotors and made them smooth and shiny in some areas. Net net ... the shop owner felt that the pads were going to ruin the rotors over time. With a double-track day coming up next weekend he strongly suggested changing the pads, once again, to HP+s.

So this is where I am now. Hawk HP+ pads on all four corners. I'll update this post after Thunder Hill and report on how they perform.

-CRT

[JewelSS]

That sucks to hear on new pads. I run the Hawk HP+ pads and when they get to much brake dust on them they make all kinds of noises. Great stopping power though but ya you get looks. Try shooting them with brake cleaner and see if that helps. Never ran the DTC pads but they are for dirt track so maybe just how they are. Look forward to your update

[tw78911sc]

same experience, the DTC30's are too aggressive for OEM rotors. My rotors have a coating of pad material embedded now, micro cracks, stops great, no fade, but I see new upgraded rotors in my near future. The HP+ I ran at the track on the front were fine, I swapped them out for the DTC30 on the second day, after 3rd session they got more aggressive and started making more noise.

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

I didn't care about the stopping noise of the DTC-30's. What I *did* care about was the rotating wheel noise WITHOUT braking. It sounded like nails on a chalkboard with each wheel rotation again WITHOUT braking.

[durbojones]

I am running the HP+s on mine and wouldn't go with anything more aggressive until I get better rotors and some cooling ducts up front. After 5 autox events last year my rotors are showing a bit of wear but nothing to worry about yet. I am hoping to get at least three more events before I need to replace them.

[So Cal Camaro]

Aggressive pads chew up rotors and make noise...I'd rather not worry about brake fade or cooking pads on the track and replace rotors when needed...

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Yes, and that's the good thing about aggressive pads which unfortunately made constant noise even coasting in neutral without applying the brakes.

[Synner]

You melted pad onto the rotor like I did because you overheated them. You will not get a better result by downgrading to a lesser pad, you need to upgrade to a pad with a better temp rating.

[Synner]

Originally Posted by durbojones

I am running the HP+s on mine and wouldn't go with anything more aggressive until I get better rotors and some cooling ducts up front.

The rotor will be abused no matter the brand, the stock rotors are fine for aggressive driving. And saying you dont want a better pad until you have more cooling is counter intuitive. You need a really good pad if you're not cooling some other way, not a lesser pad because of less cooling. That just means you'll have significantly greater issues overworking the pad and then cooking your pad/rotor/fluid.

[toehead93]

Have you thought about cobalt Friction pads. They seem to be the best choice for a track pad. I ddon't recall seeing any rotor issues with them such as this however they are not as popular because of the price.

[realsquash]

Those DTC-30's are a great track day pad, HP+ are good track day pads. Both squeal like hell on the street. They will both eat up rotors, as expected. If you want to do more track days I would suggest you get another set of stock rotors and stock-style pads for the street. You can swap pads all the time if you want, on the same rotors, but you have to break the street pads in every time you do that.

FWIW I ran that combo on the street for a few MONTHS one year. I also ran HP+ front and rear for a month or so.

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by Synner

You melted pad onto the rotor like I did because you overheated them. You will not get a better result by downgrading to a lesser pad, you need to upgrade to a pad with a better temp rating.

Thanks.

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by realsquash

Those DTC-30's are a great track day pad, HP+ are good track day pads. Both squeal like hell on the street. They will both eat up rotors, as expected. If you want to do more track days I would suggest you get another set of stock rotors and stock-style pads for the street. You can swap pads all the time if you want, on the same rotors, but you have to break the street pads in every time you do that.

FWIW I ran that combo on the street for a few MONTHS one year. I also ran HP+ front and rear for a month or so.

This is exactly what the shop owner recommended. I guess I should just of the swaps myself and avoid the expense. Good point, man.

[JDP Sales]

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

Aggressive pads chew up rotors and make noise...I'd rather not worry about brake fade or cooking pads on the track and replace rotors when needed...

+1

Originally Posted by Synner

You melted pad onto the rotor like I did because you overheated them. You will not get a better result by downgrading to a lesser pad, you need to upgrade to a pad with a better temp rating.

Agreed, but I think some cooling ducts would be a better choice than upgrading pads at this point.

Originally Posted by Synner

The rotor will be abused no matter the brand, the stock rotors are fine for aggressive driving. And saying you dont want a better pad until you have more cooling is counter intuitive. You need a really good pad if you're not cooling some other way, not a lesser pad because of less cooling. That just means you'll have significantly greater issues overworking the pad and then cooking your pad/rotor/fluid.

Again, couldn't agree more..

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007