ZL1 concern

[calbert1999]

Odd, my dealer told me the exact opposite about the SS (no break in necessary).

[Mr. Wyndham]

They run the cars through a drive test at the end of the line to ensure all systems are working...but it's only for a couple of miles worth of driving, I think. Hardly enough for a break-in.

Many say that modern engines don't need any break-in at all given such tight tolerances from the factory...on the other side of the coin, enthusiasts and die-hards swear its necessary to ensure the longevity of the powertrain.

FWIW...the 2012 Manual (I admit I haven't read previous manuals) have the most explicit break-in procedure I've seen...< 4000 revs, < 80mph, varying revs, for approx. 1500 miles.

[snapp32e]

<4000 RPM is not gonna happen unless GM gives me an engineering reason as to why this will benefit my car. I understand that this car has 580hp and can easily get away from an inexperienced or unsuspecting driver but I will not be following their advice as far as this topic is concerned. If it means a voided warranty then so be it. You get one chance at a proper break in. After all, it's a track car, drive it like one.

[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by snapp32e

<4000 RPM is not gonna happen unless GM gives me an engineering reason as to why this will benefit my car. I understand that this car has 580hp and can easily get away from an inexperienced or unsuspecting driver but I will not be following their advice as far as this topic is concerned. If it means a voided warranty then so be it. You get one chance at a proper break in. After all, it's a track car, drive it like one.

I don't think it'll void your warranty. It's just a recommendation from engineering to maximize the potential life of the powertrain.

[brian-nicola]

Before you take delivery, have the service dept run the diagnostic and give you the print out. Like all vehicles, the car will have memory for the previous 50 starts, all the stats will print out, that will tell you the story of her since day one off the line.

[snapp32e]

Well if it's only a powertrain recommendation then I'll deal with it. It's not like I plan on power shifting through the gears blowing the occasional 1st-2nd shift.

[goPC]

While I understand the need to break in the ZL1... doesn't this also teach the computer on the automatic transmissions that you drive like a granny? I've heard it is difficult to unlearn the granny style once it's done. Is this not the case here?

[hairtrigger]

Check the rear tires for signs of a burnout if you want to know if your new car has been abused before you get it. The engine itself likely won't be hurt. We put 30 mins on our race engines on the dyno to seat the rings and then do full pulls after changing the oil and then go racing. No power loss or longevity loss from doing this.

[toilets]

New car or not, these transporters for GM have also had their hands on Zr1s and z06s. Don't think they really care. Not to mention its their job if they get caught... As people said before, check mileage then tire wear if you are that concerned

[hightower]

Originally Posted by stieger

Hard break in FTW

Good reading material --> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Wish I had known about this kinda thing before I spent the majority of the first 1500 miles driving like a granny!

Luckily I did get a little "happy" with the throttle before 1k miles. Now I don't feel so bad, haha.

[10forty2]

Just be sure to change out the "shipping air" to "running air" and use only right-footed accelerations when leaving the dealership. That way the running air will allow full expansion of the wheel's lug nuts so they seat against the rim properly. Right-footed accelerations allow the pedal to learn your preferred foot location when pressing on it and it also cause serious facial reactions if the pedal is pressed hard enough. Other than those couple of things, I think I would consider wearing a "Depends" when first driving off the lot. Urine will stain leather.

Sorry...just having a little fun.....

[tmandoug1]

I am not made of money and Have read the links and suggestions, the main issue I face is this, if I go over 4000rpm's and 80mph before the 1500 miles is up and I torch the engine (I know very unlikely), the dealer can check the computer and see what I have been doing and say I have to buy the new motor because it is not covered. Correct?

[hightower]

Originally Posted by tmandoug1

I am not made of money and Have read the links and suggestions, the main issue I face is this, if I go over 4000rpm's and 80mph before the 1500 miles is up and I torch the engine (I know very unlikely), the dealer can check the computer and see what I have been doing and say I have to buy the new motor because it is not covered. Correct?

I really think that's highly unlikely. Think of the horrible rep that would give Chevy. You just forked over $55k or more, and they're trying to screw you over after 500 miles in the car. That's not happening, don't worry.

[YourBlindingBias]

Originally Posted by tmandoug1

I am not made of money and Have read the links and suggestions, the main issue I face is this, if I go over 4000rpm's and 80mph before the 1500 miles is up and I torch the engine (I know very unlikely), the dealer can check the computer and see what I have been doing and say I have to buy the new motor because it is not covered. Correct?

You also can get hit by lightning
But you bought a ZL1, not a prius, drive it like it's supposed to be driven and break it in right.