01-23-2023, 01:18 PM | #1 |
LT4 M6
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 1,249
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Those of you with Kooks headers and X pipe..
Do you ball and sockets leak? I tried mating my headers to my factory exhaust. The connection pipes are on a slight angle which I assume makes my ball and socket leak. Like my factory exhaust needs squeezed together.
Will using their X pipe fix the issue? Or would I be better off welding the ball and socket then add a V Band Clamp shortly after? |
01-23-2023, 01:25 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2021 Red Hot ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Gapplebees
Posts: 3,109
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Use this and you will have no issues. This is what I've been using for almost 2 years without any issues and it doesn't setup and dry like concrete like other Permatex products. This dries flexible and can be easily removed if you ever need to separate the joints.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Last edited by Z OH 6; 01-23-2023 at 03:01 PM. |
01-23-2023, 02:22 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro SS, 2011 Corvette GS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Erlanger, Kentucky 41018
Posts: 815
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Actually, use this sealant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8033...ve%2C75&sr=1-2
Also, do not over tighten the ball and socket clamps as this will make them leak. And make sure to re-torque the header flange bolts after a couple of heat cycles. I forgot to do this and I was getting an O2 sensor code. |
01-23-2023, 08:27 PM | #4 |
LT4 M6
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 1,249
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Are we just putting this inside the ball and socket? Or both inside and underneath the clamp on outside of pipe?
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01-24-2023, 12:13 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2021 Red Hot ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Gapplebees
Posts: 3,109
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I just make a bead around the socket part of the connecting pipes, then push them on the ball end of the headers and clamp them down. Wait 90 minutes for the adhesive to dry and you'll be leak free for years.
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01-24-2023, 12:49 PM | #6 |
Drives: '20 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Mile High
Posts: 3,569
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I drove Kook's headers, green cats and ex-pipe for 2 - 1/2 years. I might have some photos of the connections
__________________
'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650. 100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O. 2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel. 4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes). 2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next. |
01-24-2023, 02:29 PM | #7 |
Drives: '86 IROC-Z '18 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 736
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I made the mistake and went crazy tightening the clamps when I threw them on. Needless to say, I had leaks. Backed it off and it still leaked. Then read somewhere online that the clamps should only be tightened down to something like 20 ft lb. I was somewhere around whatever a impact gun going till the nut stopped spinning.
Bought some new clamps, installed them correctly and had no issues. I was going to go down the copper sealant route if needed, but I lucked out and didn't have to. |
01-24-2023, 06:32 PM | #8 | |
LT4 M6
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 1,249
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01-25-2023, 04:03 PM | #9 |
LT4 M6
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 1,249
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Recieved my sealer. Are we following directions? Says to apply. Let sit for 30 minutes. Then run engine for 10 minutes.
Would think it wouldn't hold... |
01-25-2023, 04:32 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2021 Red Hot ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Gapplebees
Posts: 3,109
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Which sealer did you use? The stuff I posted doesn't work like that. Sure hope you didn't buy that muffler and tail pipe sealer linked above because it hardens like cement, it's made for permanent sealing of parts that you don't want to be able to separate again. The product I linked works perfectly and is no problem to separate the parts should you ever have to.
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01-25-2023, 04:47 PM | #11 | |
LT4 M6
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 1,249
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