Suspension Upgrades - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

winterboy8 · 02-22-2017, 12:00 PM

Been looking at some rear suspension upgrades. As I'm no expert, and I like my car to be able to drive very well as I take out to places like Deal's Gap or a WannaGoFast event, I want it to drive very well. My question is, for items like lower control arms, toe rods and trailing arms, I know you can get these both in the fixed and adjustable forms. Can you all help with which are important to have adjustable or what adjust-ability for each of these does? Thanks guys.

Vicster · 02-22-2017, 12:36 PM

Hello,

Hope this helps....
I installed BMR rear suspension components Toe arms, Trailing arms, 1.4" Lowering springs, Drive shaft tunnel brace and Sway bars. I also installed the Lakewood Sub-frame connectors (Really like the way it keeps the rear drive package from twisting around) and the GM Convertible transmission brace. All together it really firmed up the rear suspension and all my wheel hop is gone. I have approx. 900hp at the crank, parts lists for my build are located in my photo albums.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/page=pr...7&maincatid=77

https://www.holley.com/products/susp...ts/parts/30101

If you plan to ever install the BMR lower control arms then get a set of adjustable toe arms. Also note BMR arm bushings do not require re-indexing.

The rubber in the factory arms is molded into the bushings, so if it is not re-indexed the will always be under a load and may wear out sooner.

Per BMR: Failure to do so can create bind in the suspension leading to irregular ride heights and premature bushing wear

I asked the person doing my alignment to do the ones I could not get to.

My Alignment:
HUNTER HAWKEYE ELITE 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT:

FRONT:
CAMBER: -1.2*
TOE: +0.05* (+0.1* total)
CASTER: 7.0

REAR:
CAMBER: -1.0*
TOE: +0.1* (+0.2* total)

The following are just guides, BMR has installation instructions included with their parts.
These torques are from BMR install sheets, for some reason depending on the sheet the torque specs are different.

FRONT END:

Check sway bar link alignment (no binding)
Sway bar end link to the strut – torque nut to 36 ft/lbs
Upper strut nut – torqued to 52 ft/lbs
Two spindle to strut bolts - torque bolts to 60 ft/lbs
Radius rod bolt - torqued to 32 ft/lbs
Lower control arm to spindle - torque bolts to 39 ft/lbs

REAR END:

Upper shock nut – torqued to 32 ft/lbs
Upper strut mount to chassis - torque bolts to 43 ft/lbs
Upper Control Arm Bushings - torque bolts to 40 ft/lbs
Lower Control Arm Bushings – outer - torque bolts to 32 ft/lbs
Lower Control Arm Bushings - inner - torque bolts to 85 ft/lbs
Trailing Arm Bushings - outer - torque bolts to 80 ft/lbs
Trailing Arm Bushings - inner - torque bolts to 80 ft/lbs
Lower Shock Bushings - torque bolts to 60 ft/lbs
Toe Rod bushings - inner - torque bolts to 85 ft/lbs
Toe Rod bushings - outer - torque bolts to 103 ft/lbs

owhite3003 · 02-22-2017, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winterboy8

Been looking at some rear suspension upgrades. As I'm no expert, and I like my car to be able to drive very well as I take out to places like Deal's Gap or a WannaGoFast event, I want it to drive very well. My question is, for items like lower control arms, toe rods and trailing arms, I know you can get these both in the fixed and adjustable forms. Can you all help with which are important to have adjustable or what adjust-ability for each of these does? Thanks guys.

http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/parts/...-lsa-jdp-s1006

This is the kit I have, the car feels 25% smaller and it puts the power to the ground quite well.

2MCHPWR · 02-22-2017, 03:51 PM

my two cents...
spend the money on the loose nut behind the wheel.
attend local autocrosses and maybe some HPDE's.
You will learn so much and have the time of your life.
Keep car stock until you have a season of autocross and/or HPDE under your belt.

JusticePete · 02-22-2017, 04:36 PM

Check this out...

https://www.facebook.com/JPSuperiorS...07137409350724

CamaroFred · 02-22-2017, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winterboy8

Been looking at some rear suspension upgrades. As I'm no expert, and I like my car to be able to drive very well as I take out to places like Deal's Gap or a WannaGoFast event, I want it to drive very well. My question is, for items like lower control arms, toe rods and trailing arms, I know you can get these both in the fixed and adjustable forms. Can you all help with which are important to have adjustable or what adjust-ability for each of these does? Thanks guys.

Elite 2 CC, VMAX TB, Roto-Fab CAI, ARH LT, JRE tune, NoWeeds, Big Gulp, WW II relo, Lingenfelter S/C reservoir

The Big Gulp is your issue. Replace it with a quart of beer.

DrkPhx · 02-22-2017, 10:20 PM

Imo the best mod for the rear is solid subframe bushings. They really tighten up the car and don't increase NVH much. I also installed a Pfadt rear adjustable sway bar, trailing arms and Z/28 upper control arms along with poly bushings for the front sway bar and Z/28 front radius arm inserts. That helped a lot with the body roll and gave it more of a neutral feel compared to the stock understeer.

02-22-2017, 12:00 PM	#1
winterboy8 Drives: 2015 ZL1 Blue Velvet Metallic Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Melbourne, FL Posts: 720 View My Garage	Suspension Upgrades Been looking at some rear suspension upgrades. As I'm no expert, and I like my car to be able to drive very well as I take out to places like Deal's Gap or a WannaGoFast event, I want it to drive very well. My question is, for items like lower control arms, toe rods and trailing arms, I know you can get these both in the fixed and adjustable forms. Can you all help with which are important to have adjustable or what adjust-ability for each of these does? Thanks guys. __________________ Roto-Fab CAI, ARH LT, SW 3" catback, JRE tune, Elite-2 CC, VMAX TB, Big Gulp, WW II relo, Lingenfelter S/C reservoir

02-22-2017, 12:36 PM	#2
Vicster 1000hp is NEVER Enough! Drives: 13' ZL1 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Seattle Posts: 665 View My Garage	What I installed Hello, Hope this helps.... I installed BMR rear suspension components Toe arms, Trailing arms, 1.4" Lowering springs, Drive shaft tunnel brace and Sway bars. I also installed the Lakewood Sub-frame connectors (Really like the way it keeps the rear drive package from twisting around) and the GM Convertible transmission brace. All together it really firmed up the rear suspension and all my wheel hop is gone. I have approx. 900hp at the crank, parts lists for my build are located in my photo albums. http://www.bmrsuspension.com/page=pr...7&maincatid=77 https://www.holley.com/products/susp...ts/parts/30101 If you plan to ever install the BMR lower control arms then get a set of adjustable toe arms. Also note BMR arm bushings do not require re-indexing. The rubber in the factory arms is molded into the bushings, so if it is not re-indexed the will always be under a load and may wear out sooner. Per BMR: Failure to do so can create bind in the suspension leading to irregular ride heights and premature bushing wear I asked the person doing my alignment to do the ones I could not get to. My Alignment: HUNTER HAWKEYE ELITE 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT: FRONT: CAMBER: -1.2* TOE: +0.05* (+0.1* total) CASTER: 7.0 REAR: CAMBER: -1.0* TOE: +0.1* (+0.2* total) The following are just guides, BMR has installation instructions included with their parts. These torques are from BMR install sheets, for some reason depending on the sheet the torque specs are different. FRONT END: Check sway bar link alignment (no binding) Sway bar end link to the strut – torque nut to 36 ft/lbs Upper strut nut – torqued to 52 ft/lbs Two spindle to strut bolts - torque bolts to 60 ft/lbs Radius rod bolt - torqued to 32 ft/lbs Lower control arm to spindle - torque bolts to 39 ft/lbs REAR END: Upper shock nut – torqued to 32 ft/lbs Upper strut mount to chassis - torque bolts to 43 ft/lbs Upper Control Arm Bushings - torque bolts to 40 ft/lbs Lower Control Arm Bushings – outer - torque bolts to 32 ft/lbs Lower Control Arm Bushings - inner - torque bolts to 85 ft/lbs Trailing Arm Bushings - outer - torque bolts to 80 ft/lbs Trailing Arm Bushings - inner - torque bolts to 80 ft/lbs Lower Shock Bushings - torque bolts to 60 ft/lbs Toe Rod bushings - inner - torque bolts to 85 ft/lbs Toe Rod bushings - outer - torque bolts to 103 ft/lbs Attached Images __________________ 1,000hp IS NEVER ENOUGH!!!

02-22-2017, 03:51 PM	#4
2MCHPWR Drives: 2009 z06 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: NY Posts: 136	my two cents... spend the money on the loose nut behind the wheel. attend local autocrosses and maybe some HPDE's. You will learn so much and have the time of your life. Keep car stock until you have a season of autocross and/or HPDE under your belt.

02-22-2017, 04:36 PM	#5
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	Check this out... https://www.facebook.com/JPSuperiorS...07137409350724

02-22-2017, 10:20 PM	#7
DrkPhx Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 / 2006 TB SS Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: MN Posts: 2,250	Imo the best mod for the rear is solid subframe bushings. They really tighten up the car and don't increase NVH much. I also installed a Pfadt rear adjustable sway bar, trailing arms and Z/28 upper control arms along with poly bushings for the front sway bar and Z/28 front radius arm inserts. That helped a lot with the body roll and gave it more of a neutral feel compared to the stock understeer.