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TBone · 01-31-2014, 11:32 PM

Oooooo baby, suspension porn.

Sawzall should make quick work of them with a sharp blade. That is how I did mine.

T.

thahemp · 01-31-2014, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBone

Oooooo baby, suspension porn.

Sawzall should make quick work of them with a sharp blade. That is how I did mine.

T.

Already done friend. You are correct. Chopped right through them. I just used heat to beat the ferrules out of the middle of the rubber so I could get the blade in.

rberns · 02-01-2014, 12:45 AM

Hey guys, could use your knowledge here. Hoping to get my cam installed this year sometime and need a little help as far as break in goes. I am have my performance shop install and dyno tune. As far as break in goes, I've heard people say that you need to do some heat cycles on the springs before driving the car. I've read where some say you should use a break in oil first and run it for 30 min to 1 hour and drain, fill back up with break in oil and drive another 500 miles and change oil, and then go to your oil of choice. What should I really be doing here? Also, once I start driving the car, does my car need to be at operating temperatures before I drive it around or is that only when I want to do some spirited driving?

Also, when I have my shop install the cam, will they take the car straight to the dyno or will they run the car for a bit to make sure nothing is wrong?

thahemp · 02-01-2014, 12:57 AM

You have roller lifters, so there's no break in like you're thinking. Heat cycles on the springs will be done by your reputable shop prior to WOT pulls on the dyno. Do your 500 miles, then put Amsoil zrod, Joe Gibbs, or VR1 in the car from then on. I would let the coolant pass 160 before giving it 60% throttle. Let the oil heat up before you floor it.

TornadoSS · 02-01-2014, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thahemp

You must be feeling better T. Good to see you back.

I spent some quality time with the car today. I should have everything back together by lunchtime tomorrow. Ice and snow outside anyways... perfect time to tear the car apart.

Heat those ferrules until the rubber crackles then knock them out with a hammer.

Nice job Erick! Amazing how simple these cars are put together, makes it pretty easy to mod. Nice use of the engine hoist! My motorcycle jack might have worked better than the trans jack.

ssmike · 02-01-2014, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBone

Good Deal.

Now you will want to clean out those threads with a toothbrush so it does not happen again. Also make sure you are at least 660MM from the bottom lip of your rim to the fender so you do not have suspension geometry issues. That is a JP tip btw.

T.

That's why I'm raising it, I was too low at 652mm and I think that's why I had the grease leaking out of the CV joint!

Erick, I wish I had the garage room that you have! Makes it a lot easier to just pull the whole cradle and have at it! Cradle bushings will make a BIG difference!

BlaqWhole · 02-01-2014, 08:28 AM

Hey guys, I need some wheel and tires size advice. What is the biggest and widest tire I can put on the stock wheels without any rubbing? And what is the widest in inches for a wheel that I can put on the front and back? I've seen 20X10s but will that fit front and back? Thanks guys.

axis · 02-01-2014, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

Hey guys, I need some wheel and tires size advice. What is the biggest and widest tire I can put on the stock wheels without any rubbing? And what is the widest in inches for a wheel that I can put on the front and back? I've seen 20X10s but will that fit front and back? Thanks guys.

That depends on the tire manufacturer. Many tires of the same size will vary some on the width. I'm thinking the Pilots run small where others run large. I'm running Conti DWS 295's on the rear stockers 255's on the front and it's just about perfect. They bulge just enough to protect the wheel lip and don't stick out past the fender well. I've seen 305's on the rear as well but they stuck out just a little more than I was comfortable with and they bulged more than I like. I'm lowered 1.25in the Pfadts and have never rubbed.

thahemp · 02-01-2014, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TornadoSS

Nice job Erick! Amazing how simple these cars are put together, makes it pretty easy to mod. Nice use of the engine hoist! My motorcycle jack might have worked better than the trans jack.

Thanks Brad. I normally hate suspension work, but I admit... That was very satisfying. The engine hoist idea came to me while i was at the big tool store staring at the $450+ tranny jacks haha.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssmike

That's why I'm raising it, I was too low at 652mm and I think that's why I had the grease leaking out of the CV joint!

Erick, I wish I had the garage room that you have! Makes it a lot easier to just pull the whole cradle and have at it! Cradle bushings will make a BIG difference!

We have made good use of the shop this winter. It is nice to have the space and the heat. I'm excited to get it put back together, but we got a layer of ice last night, so she'll probably sit there a few days before I get to try them out :/.

BlaqWhole · 02-01-2014, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axis

That depends on the tire manufacturer. Many tires of the same size will vary some on the width. I'm thinking the Pilots run small where others run large. I'm running Conti DWS 295's on the rear stockers 255's on the front and it's just about perfect. They bulge just enough to protect the wheel lip and don't stick out past the fender well. I've seen 305's on the rear as well but they stuck out just a little more than I was comfortable with and they bulged more than I like. I'm lowered 1.25in the Pfadts and have never rubbed.

Thanks Axis. How are they on the street? Nice grip? I got 30,000 on my P-Zeros and I'm getting my ass handed to me out here...can't get any traction even in 3rd. Any other tire recommendations?

mikeyg36 · 02-01-2014, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

Thanks Axis. How are they on the street? Nice grip? I got 30,000 on my P-Zeros and I'm getting my ass handed to me out here...can't get any traction even in 3rd. Any other tire recommendations?

How the hell did you get 30k miles out of them? If you can afford the get the Pilot SSs.

epstein · 02-01-2014, 11:33 AM

I got 32000 out of my Pzeros...... hehe

I now run 315 on tsw... Bite the bullet Buy some lighter wheels!

BTW Nightmare Nice runs... Next time tell Michael J fox to use a Tripod !!!!

K1SSRSS · 02-01-2014, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epstein

I got 32000 out of my Pzeros...... hehe

I now run 315 on tsw... Bite the bullet Buy some lighter wheels!

BTW Nightmare Nice runs... Next time tell Michael J fox to use a Tripod !!!!

I was at 28k with some life left in the Pzeros had a few track days on them too. I agree, go with 315's out back and at least a 275 up front and the lightest wheels you can afford that fit your taste. I went with a 9.5 wheel in the front and a 10.5 in the back, I originally wanted .5 inch wider on both but the style I wanted didn't come in those widths. I think the combo turned out pretty good though. I'll have to take some better pics showing the width, these things are massive compared to the stockers and still lighter.

litle88 · 02-01-2014, 12:37 PM

Lol @ Epstein!!

FYI
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...29#post7386629

01-31-2014, 11:32 PM	#8933
TBone Negative Camber Junkie Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23 Join Date: May 2009 Location: ChiTown, IL Posts: 1,824	Oooooo baby, suspension porn. Sawzall should make quick work of them with a sharp blade. That is how I did mine. T. __________________ "Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same. Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different. I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!

02-01-2014, 12:45 AM	#8935
rberns Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: US Posts: 3,291 View My Garage	Hey guys, could use your knowledge here. Hoping to get my cam installed this year sometime and need a little help as far as break in goes. I am have my performance shop install and dyno tune. As far as break in goes, I've heard people say that you need to do some heat cycles on the springs before driving the car. I've read where some say you should use a break in oil first and run it for 30 min to 1 hour and drain, fill back up with break in oil and drive another 500 miles and change oil, and then go to your oil of choice. What should I really be doing here? Also, once I start driving the car, does my car need to be at operating temperatures before I drive it around or is that only when I want to do some spirited driving? Also, when I have my shop install the cam, will they take the car straight to the dyno or will they run the car for a bit to make sure nothing is wrong? __________________ 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan, Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs

02-01-2014, 12:57 AM	#8936
thahemp Geek Drives: 2012 Black LS3 Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Derby, KS Posts: 4,343 View My Garage	You have roller lifters, so there's no break in like you're thinking. Heat cycles on the springs will be done by your reputable shop prior to WOT pulls on the dyno. Do your 500 miles, then put Amsoil zrod, Joe Gibbs, or VR1 in the car from then on. I would let the coolant pass 160 before giving it 60% throttle. Let the oil heat up before you floor it. __________________ 01000111011011110110111101100100001000000110110001 11010101100011011010110010000001110111011010010111 01000110100000100000011101000110100001101001011100 110010000001101111011011100110010100100001 x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x

02-01-2014, 12:37 PM	#8946
litle88 V8 Lounge member #2 Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Burbank,IL Posts: 6,373	Lol @ Epstein!! FYI http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...29#post7386629 __________________ 2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.

02-01-2014, 08:28 AM	#8939
BlaqWhole Account Suspended Drives: 2017 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 7,692	Hey guys, I need some wheel and tires size advice. What is the biggest and widest tire I can put on the stock wheels without any rubbing? And what is the widest in inches for a wheel that I can put on the front and back? I've seen 20X10s but will that fit front and back? Thanks guys.

02-01-2014, 11:33 AM	#8944
epstein Account Suspended Drives: SS/RS Join Date: May 2010 Location: Transplanted from NYC..(ret. NYPD).Now in CT Posts: 904	I got 32000 out of my Pzeros...... hehe I now run 315 on tsw... Bite the bullet Buy some lighter wheels! BTW Nightmare Nice runs... Next time tell Michael J fox to use a Tripod !!!!