JP Superior Solutions New Product

[jksynergy]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The shaft has a standard thread on one end and a reverse thread on the other. Turning the shaft shortens or lengthens the endlink by screwing into both ball joint or out of them.

If you corner weighted by coilover ride height adjustment, the endlinks allow you to match the different ride heights side to side. (One endlink should be disconnected while doing the corner weights.)

On stock struts and springs, you can cheat / shift some corner weight using the sway bar and making one endlink longer than the other.

Did this answer your question?

I'd say yes and no. I think I need some schooling on how the adjustment effects the bar and it's workload to figure out why it would need to be loaded differently than stock. Time to do some research.

[Burt]

Originally Posted by jksynergy

Pete, would you provide some insight into how these are adjusted, the advantage of doing so and how they effect corner weighting?

I'm going to take a swing here (if I'm wrong, I'm sure Pete will correct me) and say that when you're corner weight/balancing a car, your coilovers won't end up being the same height left-to-right, which means that the mounting tabs for the endlinks will be offset, and bind the coilover. Having adjustable endlinks allows you to change their lengths to account for that difference, and take that bind out of the sway bar.

I do have a couple of questions my self, namely: Pete, would you determine the diameter of the top stud you need by measuring your existing stud, and sticking with it, or can you tell simply by telling which year/suspension you have/which aftermarket parts you're running? Second, what's the range of adjustability on the endlinks, i.e can you alter the center-to-center length 15mm, 20mm, and what the max/min lengths are. Just out of curiosity

[jksynergy]

Burt, makes sense. Thought I'm running the stock struts, with Pedders springs, no coilovers. Thanks for the answer though on how the adjustables work with the coilovers.
So, I guess, my real question is, any improvement to be felt, or obtained, but running adjustable endlinks with drop springs? I would think there would be some, just not sure how much improvement would be there.

[JusticePete]

Burt, you are spot on.

Measuring is hands down the safest. In general 2010 - 2011 thy are 10mm. In 2012 I have seen some of both. 13 on are all 12mm

380mm center to center to 408mm.

28mm or 1.1 inches

Short answer, a lot.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by jksynergy

Burt, makes sense. Thought I'm running the stock struts, with Pedders springs, no coilovers. Thanks for the answer though on how the adjustables work with the coilovers.
So, I guess, my real question is, any improvement to be felt, or obtained, but running adjustable endlinks with drop springs? I would think there would be some, just not sure how much improvement would be there.

Stock bars and stock links work really well together. Could you feel the difference in mine? As much as I would like to sell you a set of endlinks, probably not.

Now about that 28mm rear 1LE bar. We can fix that. Run the JPSS 32mm rear bar with the OE front 27mm bar and you will be THRILLED with the result

[jksynergy]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Stock bars and stock links work really well together. Could you feel the difference in mine? As much as I would like to sell you a set of endlinks, probably not.

Now about that 28mm rear 1LE bar. We can fix that. Run the JPSS 32mm rear bar with the OE front 27mm bar and you will be THRILLED with the result

That's already covered. If you remember, our conversation at LSFest last year, I brought home a nice red 32mm bar from our friend who had one on his trailer. Let's just say, it's a huge improvement already. Last weeks EVO school was a big payoff. Managed to damn near beat me son's time, he runs a Miata, .014 difference total. Not bad. Plus the instructors, whom had never driven a Camaro, let alone a 1LE with full springs and that huge bar in back absolutely loved the car and said it had way more finesse than they expected.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by jksynergy

That's already covered. If you remember, our conversation at LSFest last year, I brought home a nice red 32mm bar from our friend who had one on his trailer. Let's just say, it's a huge improvement already. Last weeks EVO school was a big payoff. Managed to damn near beat me son's time, he runs a Miata, .014 difference total. Not bad. Plus the instructors, whom had never driven a Camaro, let alone a 1LE with full springs and that huge bar in back absolutely loved the car and said it had way more finesse than they expected.

Very cool!

Then next on your list should be Billet Bushing Radius Arm Inserts and sit tight for a creative JPSS sub-frame bushing solution.

[jksynergy]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Very cool!

Then next on your list should be Billet Bushing Radius Arm Inserts and sit tight for a creative JPSS sub-frame bushing solution.

We sure will. Thanks Pete. I do appreciate you being honest about the endlinks too. Most would still push the issue and say, well, you lowered the front, you need these. Very happy to hear you did not go that route at all.

[Burt]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Burt, you are spot on.

Measuring is hands down the safest. In general 2010 - 2011 thy are 10mm. In 2012 I have seen some of both. 13 on are all 12mm

380mm center to center to 408mm.

28mm or 1.1 inches

Short answer, a lot.

Sweet giblets, that's some healthy adjustment. I had a competitors endlinks on my previous car, and while they were quality hardware that I had no complaints about, they only had about half the adjustment.

Thinking back to that car, I have another question (runs and hides) When I lowered that car, which had a strut-type suspension all around, it inherently rotated the sway bars, and the rear bar contacted the subframe and exhaust. To correct that, I bought longer end links (I measured my factory endlinks, and added the height of the drop to them) to bring the sway bar back to the original orientation. I haven't measured my front endlinks to compare because the front bar hasn't come off yet so I haven't had a reason to, but do you alter the endlink length to change the bar orientation, or is that not something you consider an issue on these cars? I haven't had any issues at my ride height, and I know that it would be hard to accommodate for given the variety of ride heights people choose, but now I'm curious, for the front and rear.

[JusticePete]

Keeping the bar parallel to the frame is the best configuration. That is easy with an aftermarket bar that spins freely in the sway bar bushing. It is more challenging with an OE bushing, but can be accomplished with some grunt on many, but not on a 5th Gen Camaro. The straps in the 5th Gen are very strong. That is why we have special bushings made to fit them. They really are very very good. They hold the bar like they are in a vice. The bar doesn't turn. The rubber twists. To level a 5th Gen bar take some effort. You have to remove the strap to free the rubber bushing from the bar. Then reinstall the strap to the bushing carefully oriented to the bar.

You also have to be careful with interference once you reposition the bar or the front bar end may make contact with the inner fender well and the wheels turned close to lock if you don't lengthen the link.

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The JPSS Black Magic 32mm rear bar will be in stock in early May

Hooray! I even saved my OE "steel straps"!
I'm a genius (or got lucky).

Thanks Pete- looking forward to my Black Magic bar!

[JusticePete]

[Pushrod Pete]

Will the black magic 32mm rear bar be available by itself? I see it listed as package on the JPSS website.


Guess I better start saving my money.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Pushrod Pete

Will the black magic 32mm rear bar be available by itself? I see it listed as package on the JPSS website.


Guess I better start saving my money.

Yes Sir