07-08-2013, 11:58 PM | #1 |
FI drivetrain reinforcement
For anyone doing the IPF centrifugal SC or TT, what is the bare minimum, as well as the common steps that should be taken to ensure the drivetrain will hold up to the increase in power?
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07-09-2013, 12:11 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Manual or auto? You honestly don't need anything extra
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07-09-2013, 12:25 AM | #3 |
Preferably manual, but just curious in general for a v6
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07-09-2013, 12:38 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Honestly, nothing. The auto could benefit from a v8 rear swap but for the manual nothing. Are u planning on any racing?
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07-09-2013, 02:38 AM | #5 |
07-09-2013, 06:52 AM | #6 |
COTW 5/06/2013
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Trailing arm and toe rod bushings, clutch eventually.. but honestly, once you start, you will always be doing something...
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07-09-2013, 11:43 AM | #7 |
Drives: 16 Camaro SS, 15 Colorado Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 13,943
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Actually I'd say the clutches in the manual transmission has been the weakest link we've found. Also the torque converters in the 2012 (not sure about 2013) automatics have been having issues.
Otherwise...no issues.
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07-09-2013, 12:06 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 1LT/RS Join Date: May 2013
Location: New London CT
Posts: 402
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Torque converter huh? Hmmm. Might have to look into that in the future. I also heard I might want to look into an SS rear diff for my automatic.
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07-09-2013, 01:12 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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The torque converter is a 2012+ issue. You should be fine. Also, unless u race the car a whole lot the ss rear isn't worth it in my opinion.
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07-09-2013, 01:14 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Since you have a manual, the clutch will probably be the first thing to go. Other than that, I'd put money into trailing arms, rear subframe bushings, and toe rods to prevent wheel hop.
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07-09-2013, 04:19 PM | #11 |
Thanks for the tips. After going the FI route, how much time has anyone shaved off their e/t with DRs?
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07-09-2013, 04:38 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2013 Mustang 5.0 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,788
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id say at least a second
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07-09-2013, 04:44 PM | #13 |
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In the near future id highly recommend an aluminum drive shaft for the manuals and if your transmission feels notchy id recommend the ideal g master cylinder if you drag race as well.
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Last edited by Vader2011v6; 07-09-2013 at 04:45 PM. Reason: added info |
07-09-2013, 06:56 PM | #14 | |
Drives: 16 Camaro SS, 15 Colorado Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 13,943
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Quote:
The SC alone shaves a good second or more off the time and is capable of putting the V6 in the high 12s. With DRs and a good launch I'd guess mid 12s is possible for sure. Maybe better....but not sure.
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