Need Help! Pedders Double Adjustable Endlinks, What Length?

[Kilo-9]

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I am installing Pedders "Solution B" 27mm sway bars and just received their latest/updated version of endlink that is double adjustable. All of the information/instructions that I could find on the 'net are for the previous version which had a fixed ballstud on one end and an adjustable on the other. The latest endlinks are adjustable at both ends. I am looking for setup info...specifically, at what length should I set the fronts?

Here's a pic of what I'm working with:


Thanks!

[TCao]

I would start with the factory length for the swaybar endlinks. This is the instruction from Pfadt but should also work for the Pedders version. HTH
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...structions.pdf

[Kilo-9]

I need to pull a factory link out and measure it. I believe the Pedders links are much shorter than factory, even at maximum length. Thanks for the link, though...it's a starting place.

[axis]

Have you called or PM'd Pedders? I'm sure they will fix you up.

[Kilo-9]

Yep, yesterday...still awaiting a reply.

[Jaysin]

I know that the factory rears are 105mm's center to center of the balljoint.

[Kilo-9]

The rears are precut and, when fully tightened, end up at 105mm center-to-center.

[camaro4mybday]

if you go on the pedders forums there is great info about different settings
http://forums.peddersusa.com/showthread.php?t=1072 that is a good start

[camaro4mybday]

kilo you must excuse pedders for delays in response due to sema

[Kilo-9]

Thanks for the link. I have that sheet, but the setup is for the old design endlink that has one fixed ball stud and one that's adjustable. The new ones are adjustable at both ends, so I'm not sure what length to set the fronts.

[sting808]

I used the OE length for the rears. Almost threaded all the way in. Then, adjusted without driver. The fronts can match OE length, but I shortened them about an 1" after looking at the bar and taking into consideration my drop. Still longer than the old version.

I needed to use my ramps and rear wheel stands to adjust them since I don't have access to a rack. Can't adjust them while tires off the ground. Used raceramps.com purchased through Amazon.com. Free super saver shipping used 2-day air to HI. Installed header this weekend using these ramps.

If you're not particular, matching the lengths on both sides is good enough.

I can't remember which, but front or rear had a paper instructions for the new endlinks. Pretty straight forward for on-car adjustable endlink. Loosen the lock nuts and twist the rod. One end is reverse threaded so endlinks get longer or shorter.

[Kilo-9]

Thanks...great info!

I already picked up a set of Race Ramps "Trak Jax" last week. I couldn't get the lift arms under the car after the drop. I went pretty aggressive with my drop.

For my intended usage of this car, matching side to side is good enough for me.

[camaro4mybday]

kilo for getting a car on a 2 post lift that is on the ground use a jack to lift up the car and position the arms lower the car on the arms then do the back, its a great way to do it, been doing it in my shop for years

[Kilo-9]

For anyone that's interested or may search out this thread later, here is the information I received from JusticePete for setting the length of the front, double-adjustable Pedders endlinks:

Screw them in until they bottom out and then correct the orientation for both joints. The orientation is MISSION CRITICAL. They must be parallel to the mounting surface. If they are installed any other way they will bind, bend or worse.

Disclaimer: This setup is not optimum. This method is for a street-only car. If you are competing or corner balancing the car, there are entirely different procedures for "neutralizing" the sway bars for the car at curb weight or with driver, fuel, etc. I'm not corner balancing or using the car for competition, so the basic procedure of matching side to side is fine for me.