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Old 01-20-2015, 11:19 AM   #15
OmniCamaro
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Thanks for taking the time to do this! Much appreciated!
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:31 PM   #16
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How many bottles of the Motul rbf600 did you need to flush your system?
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:15 PM   #17
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3 bottles are needed for a flush
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:14 PM   #18
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First off, thanks for the write-up! I did this over the weekend and your guide helped!

It may be different on my 2015 1LE but I can't imagine it is. You don't want 3/8" ID tubing. You want 3/8" OD diameter tubing (1/4" ID)!

Also, be careful with keeping fluid in the brake/clutch reservoir. I thought it had fluid in it but the shape of the reservoir casts a shadow that made me think it had fluid in it and turned out it was empty. I don't think it had run dry very much so I filled it and continued bleeding. Seems ok now but I might take it into the dealer and have them do a complete flush with new fluid.

This was my first time ever bleeding brakes and it could have gone much smoother unfortunately. Next time will be much better though.
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:16 PM   #19
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Great thread Sir. Well done.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:44 PM   #20
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Has anyone done this and reused the original line clips. I'm not sure why I would need to replace them?
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:54 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip View Post
Also, be careful with keeping fluid in the brake/clutch reservoir. I thought it had fluid in it but the shape of the reservoir casts a shadow that made me think it had fluid in it and turned out it was empty. I don't think it had run dry very much so I filled it and continued bleeding. Seems ok now
DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY.

I bled my brakes again last night just to be extra sure since they seemed ok and now they're extremely spongy (almost foot to the floor bad), huge air pockets came out when I was bleeding them. The air from when I let it run dry before must not have made it to the brake lines until I bled again. Learning lessons the hard way...
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:48 PM   #22
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I took my car into the dealership, I threw in the towel on trying to fix my brakes myself, they flushed it completely including the ABS with DOT4. Only gone through about 12 bottles in the last 2 weeks! Should have bought Motul stock.

Anyway, now that it's all said and done, how should the brakes feel after the steel brakes lines installed. There should be a little give to pressing the brakes right? I press the pedal and it's pretty firm but there's a little give to push it further. That's normal right?

It's been so long since I know my brakes were good, I can't tell if there's an improvement or not from stock. I think I expected it to be totally solid, like when you press the brakes with the car off.



BTW, I paid $115 for the flush, supplied my own fluid.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:01 AM   #23
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used this write up over the weekend to get my fluid flushed and lines installed, worked awesome! Only thing I can mention is I'm not so sure that the top-bolt on the body connection of the line is 1/2", at least not on all cars. mine was slightly bigger than the half inch wrench I was using. Just an FYI
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:58 AM   #24
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First off - great write-up! Some of the sizes differ a bit, at least on ZL1. Using 11mm for the caliper bolt, for example.

That aside - question for the folks here... I got a little over-zealous with the first 10mm bolt that connects the retaining clip to the body and sheared the head off. I was much more careful with the others, but wondering if any of you fine folks know the best place to get a new one? Is it something I'd most likely find at home depot if I bring one of the others in to match? Or something I'd need to hit up an auto parts store for?
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:04 AM   #25
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If you only have one jack and can only do one wheel at a time, do you still need to follow the bleeding order (RR, LF, LR, RF) or can you do them in any order? I'm assuming yes as I've never had an issue with other cars but they only had single piston brakes.

Also does anyone know why this order? For all the years I've worked on brakes, it's always been start with the one farthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. Which means RR, LR, RF, LF.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:19 PM   #26
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Nice. This will come in handy. Thanks!!
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:09 AM   #27
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Going to try this on my next day off. Next question...has anyone used the Motive Power Bleeder for this? If so..PM me
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Draco View Post
If you only have one jack and can only do one wheel at a time, do you still need to follow the bleeding order (RR, LF, LR, RF) or can you do them in any order? I'm assuming yes as I've never had an issue with other cars but they only had single piston brakes.

Also does anyone know why this order? For all the years I've worked on brakes, it's always been start with the one farthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. Which means RR, LR, RF, LF.
I would also like to know.
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