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Old 11-17-2012, 12:11 AM   #15
blackonblacksls
 
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My advice to those who use 15s. You pretty much have to move to a 12mm or 1/2in studs. The stock 14mm crap doesn't work with your average drag wheels.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:12 AM   #16
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I used a set of extended 1/2 studs for a mustang. Slipped right in.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:33 AM   #17
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Question

Posted this on another board

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FInally got the car out and driving around on the new 15inch wheel setup....

Took a little more work than i had originally thought it would, but oh well. Probably going to move to a custom arm and a shorter double adjustable shock.

6.5inch backspacing makes it easier to deal with as far as clearance goes, but looks a little to aggressive for my taste.. My wheels are the 6.5inch backspacing version.





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Old 11-19-2012, 08:48 AM   #18
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Looks great! I like the fully filled fender look on it for sure.

The brakes seem to fit as planned and the wheel fit appears good. That was the plan and it appears to be working well.

I suspect you'll take some heat on the control arm mod. For those new to the topic; this is not a brake fit issue but a 15" wheel fit issue. There are a couple of folks out there producing alternative lower control arms for such reasons. It would be irresponsible of my shop to not suggest you look into these options rather than self clearancing as shown here. T
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:03 AM   #19
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Looks great! I like the fully filled fender look on it for sure.

The brakes seem to fit as planned and the wheel fit appears good. That was the plan and it appears to be working well.

I suspect you'll take some heat on the control arm mod. For those new to the topic; this is not a brake fit issue but a 15" wheel fit issue. There are a couple of folks out there producing alternative lower control arms for such reasons. It would be irresponsible of my shop to not suggest you look into these options rather than self clearancing as shown here. T
Yes! It a lot of work. And if you are short on clearance you will ruin a wheel as the control arm would dig into the Barel..

Also it's more than just clearancing. Braces must be welded back in to take up some of the strength lost in the cutting of the arm.

It was just hard for me to swallow buying another set of control arms after buying these from BMR not too long ago. And we work out of a well equipped shop. So the grinder, torch, and welder were all within arms reach.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:49 AM   #20
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Wheels look great.

To echo what I posted on the bullet, that clearancing concerns me. Have you checked with BMR on whether they think that much cutting is problematic? Just thinking of your safety.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:03 PM   #21
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Wheels look great.

To echo what I posted on the bullet, that clearancing concerns me. Have you checked with BMR on whether they think that much cutting is problematic? Just thinking of your safety.
I agree with John the wheels look amazing but safety first
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:21 PM   #22
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I added in two braces on each arm.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:26 PM   #23
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What would make this set up really cool is if it weighed a bit less!

Ok, we can do that. Coming soon; the new Scalloped Option for the TCE/Wilwood rear drag kit!

Fresh off the truck, a prototype rear disc cut for evaluation purposes.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:36 PM   #24
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I like that. Probably be something I send in a set of rotors for here soon.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:55 PM   #25
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Those discs do not have enough material around the stud holes. I'd not machine so much there, you're liable to turn it into a two-piece floating rotor if you stand on the brakes from high speed . Looks nice otherwise. I'll be going with drag brakes.
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:39 PM   #26
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I added in two braces on each arm.
Cool. 15's look sick on your car, makes me want some.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:21 PM   #27
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Those discs do not have enough material around the stud holes. I'd not machine so much there, you're liable to turn it into a two-piece floating rotor if you stand on the brakes from high speed . Looks nice otherwise. I'll be going with drag brakes.

They're rears. You couldn't generate enough torque there to break it unless you had lose wheels also. Also remember that it's a drag set up, not a road race design so really the amount of brake toque is minimal in comparison.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:34 PM   #28
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Those discs do not have enough material around the stud holes. I'd not machine so much there, you're liable to turn it into a two-piece floating rotor if you stand on the brakes from high speed . Looks nice otherwise. I'll be going with drag brakes.
There can't be much torque in that direction, or else that tiny little torx bolt that holds the rotor onto the spindle would sheer right off. I'm sure the lug nuts put enough pressure to keep anything from moving..
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