Those of you with the "2nd Gear Grind"

[MIZ-ARO]

The truck is an Auto. I seriously thought about getting an Auto Camaro, but I just couldn't bring myself to get another one. Maybe in a few years when all the bugs are worked out.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by MIZ-ARO

The truck is an Auto. I seriously thought about getting an Auto Camaro, but I just couldn't bring myself to get another one. Maybe in a few years when all the bugs are worked out.

I would be apprehensive too. 32k on mine without an issue like yours. You made a good choice...for now

[Ject]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

...for now

What he ment to say is until the bottom end of the motor blows out for no known reason and you have the desire to get the ZL1 (auto)

[TankMorph]

I have a V6, and had bad grind from 1-2 and 3-2.

The dealer replaced all related components in the transmission, no questions asked.

Shifts much better now, but I do tend to think it's a clutch hydraulics issue. Anytime I got the grind, it just felt like the transmission wasn't completely disengaged.

It definitely shifts much better now, no grinding (yet). I had 1-2 grinds from day 1 with my car, but it was so intermittent, I never brought it in. Finally, after 18,000 miles, it would grind EVERY time downshifting from 3-2.

[OrangeVert]

Ground again on a 1-2 very light shift this evening within 2 miles of starting and driving the car. Temp outside was 42F, car had been sitting all day - cold. No more grinding after the first time. Only did this once before, and under similar conditions. Higher rev shifts are always fine.

Don't want to bring it to the dealer because it probably won't grind - morning temps are getting warmer. If I change out the tranny oil with something better (within warranty), maybe that will lube better when cold & no more occasional 1-2 grind?

Anyone know of an excellent dealer service dept in the southern NH / northern MA with competent techs to diagnose this? May have to wait until fall when temps get low again to get it to grind. Or should I try different trans oil this summer? Only 2,000 miles on the car. :(


Your thoughts?

[IDEALG]

were hoping this will solve some of our problems
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212552

[iHasCamaro]

Originally Posted by IDEALG

You guys with no grind issues..... have you wound out first gear to 5000 rpm or higher and try to shift into second? you've never had any grind issues at that high of rpm while shifting? do you have a stock shifter or short throw? the long throw of a stock shifter may reduce the issue due to the extra time it takes you to shift due to the long throw. just curious on input here . im so stressed out over this issue already. I dont want to give up my car because i love it and they dont make my color or interior combination any more. But i'm almost ready for the lemon law.

I have a 2012 1SS W/ 1700 Miles, stock Hurst shifter. Even at the track accidentally bouncing off the rev limiter the shifts are solid. It's actually the best shifting car i've owned.

Coming from the Mitsubishi world, a few tricks I've done to cure grinding were to use BG SynchroShift fluid, and install a stainless clutch line. Obviously shifter bushings are only for a cable-shifted trans, but it's possible there is some sloppy thing in the driveline that needs attention.

[iHasCamaro]

I keep reading that stomping the clutch seems to help, which makes me think a stainless clutch line would help by not expanding and so giving more travel. Then again, I don't even know how the master cylinder attaches to the trans in this car, but it sure does help in Evos. Also if there are any bushings on the clutch master or slave cylinders maybe try using solid metal ones.

Edit: just remembered the clutch and brake systems are combined in this car. maybe try bleeding the brakes and clutch, including using the factory tool to get all the bubbles out of the abs system. Also go activate the abs afterward a few times just to make sure (stomp on the brakes). Or just split the systems.

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by iHasCamaro

I have a 2012 1SS W/ 1700 Miles, stock Hurst shifter. Even at the track accidentally bouncing off the rev limiter the shifts are solid. It's actually the best shifting car i've owned.

Coming from the Mitsubishi world, a few tricks I've done to cure grinding were to use BG SynchroShift fluid, and install a stainless clutch line. Obviously shifter bushings are only for a cable-shifted trans, but it's possible there is some sloppy thing in the driveline that needs attention.

yes we believe its a combination of the clutch master cylinder and the shifter mount design. were working on pin pointing the problem

[AutoX]

Originally Posted by kaylew78

what do you guys think about tick performances claim that the gm clutch master cylinder is the culprit of the 2nd gear grind? search the forums and read the whole thread and chime in when you can. if what they say is true i believe the first step for a fix would be an aftermarket adjustable master cylinder.

Interesting... i have their master and it grinds....

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by AutoX

Interesting... i have their master and it grinds....

I thought that they said it wouldn't work on the Camaro.

Old thread, I know.

[kaylew78]

Here is what i think everyone should do if you have the 2nd gear grind. Start with separating the clutch hydraulics from the abs hydrualics with a Chevy GTO resevroir (search forum for parts and install hints). Make sure you replace the hydraulic fluid with brand new and bleed the system again and again and again till all the air is out ( there are helpful videos on this site ) you must check your clutch hydraulic fluid every few thousand miles especially if you beat the car hard to make sure it isnt all burnt and nasty. Then replace your tranny fluid with royal purple or redline. If you still have the grind you may need to start replacing parts. I would try ideal g master cylinder first. if you still have grind your transmission or clutch may need replaced especially if you beat the car real hard and continued to grind gears over and over again causing internal damage. If you got all the money do a street slayer clutch with mid-high end transmission rebuild from tick performance. Remember, it is very important to let your transmission warm up (approx. 20 mins. driving) before wide open throttle shifts from 1st to 2nd gear. If someone has done all this and they still have the grind please post reply.

[pnyklr]

I haven't had to do any of the above except let the tranny warm up. Once warmed up it shifts just fine.

-Funk

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

I've used a turkey baster to take out fluid from the stock master cylinder, refilled, pumped the clutch several times and repeated the process. This helps keep the master cylinder contents clean and seems to help alleviate this particular problem.

The fluid gets dirty pretty quick because the slave cylinder picks up bits of clutch dust every time the clutch is cycled and spreads it through the entire hydraulic system eventually. The clutch does circulate the fluid a bit every time the pedal gets pushed, so you can remove quite a bit of the gunk with the above method (which I read about on Camaro 5, so it must be true).

Just remember, there are few things better at removing paint than brake fluid, so be careful.

John B.