11-02-2010, 03:22 PM | #1 |
Waxing Novice
Ok so my Camaro is my first "new" vehicle owned. My past vehicles, I've never been to terribly concerned with the method of which i wax. So Im looking for some input.
1) What wax to use. Im not wanting to have to order online, so im looking for something that I can get from the store. 2) Method to applying. apply by hand? buffer? Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks Everyone, Rdrokt |
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11-02-2010, 03:35 PM | #2 | |
Drives: 2014 Ford Focus ST Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 939
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Quote:
A store brand your looking for waxing is Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Wax, if you can find it at your local auto parts store. Usage Tip: Always use on a cool surface out of direct sunlight. Apply sparingly by hand to the entire vehicle using a dry foam applicator. Allow a haze to form. Buff residues with a Microfiber Buffing Cloth. Another one is Meguiar's #21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0. Usage Tip: Always use on a cool surface out of direct sunlight. Apply sparingly by hand or orbital polisher to the entire vehicle using a foam pad. Allow a haze to form. Wipe off the dry residue with a clean terry towel or a terry bonnet on an orbital polisher. Apply it is very easy, so go with the method you feel the most comfortable. |
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11-02-2010, 03:44 PM | #3 |
Ok so im assuming, wash, dry, wax, then seal.
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11-02-2010, 03:51 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2014 Ford Focus ST Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 939
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Wash , Dry , Clay , quick Wash , Polish ( if needed ), Seal, wait 8-24 hrs and then Wax.
Thanks Mr_Draco Last edited by Angelo@Autopia; 11-03-2010 at 07:14 AM. |
11-02-2010, 04:04 PM | #5 |
Claying is something ive never heard before, can you elaborate
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11-02-2010, 05:54 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2014 Ford Focus ST Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 939
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Detailing clay bars help remove contaminants embedded in your cars paint.
Try this test. Wash and dry your vehicle. Place your hand inside a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over your car's paint. It should be smooth-as-glass. If the paint has a rough, gritty or pebble-like feel, you have some type of contamination on the paint. |
11-02-2010, 06:53 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,182
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I've got to agree with Angelo. If you want to stick with strictly over the counter go with Meguiars. It's not as good as what you can order online but it's still good stuff.
He forgot a step though. After you clay the car, you need to wash and dry the car again. You need to remove the clay residue before you wax the car. Otherwise it'll be like throwing a bucket of mud on the car and trying to wax over it. So the steps for a new car should look like this; 1) Wash with Dawn dish detergent. Put the Dawn back in the kitchen and never use it on the car again. It will remove all wax on the car if you use it. Then dry the car. 2) Use a clay bar and clay the car. You can use liquid clay but it just doesn't do as good a job as a clay bar. Here's a video on this process if you want to learn about it. 3) Wash the car with a car wash soap. This will remove the clay residue from the previous step allowing you to wax the car. And dry the car. 4) Apply your choice of wax. |
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11-02-2010, 07:08 PM | #8 |
Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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Its a pretty simple process that can make a HUGE difference in your finish. The fine contaminants like paint overspray, tree sap, fallout, bug guts, or other things that you can't get off the finish during the wash process need clay to be removed. Essentially it bonds to these things and sheers/pulls them from the surface.
Like Angelo suggested the best way to tell if you need to clay is the plastic bag test (sounds weird, but it works) At a minimum you want to clay 1-2 times a year on a lightly driven car... more frequently in a car thats daily driven, sees a lot of outside time, is near an industrial area, or major metropolitan area (these all produce more contamination that bonds to the paint) Removing this stuff makes sure the finish is a clean as possible, but also will enhance the shine as those tiny contaminants are no longer there to impact the reflection or shine. Check out this video, it will touch a little more on the concept and obviously its always easier to understand something when you actually SEE someone do it versus just reading about it. http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Videos_DVD5_13.aspx |
11-02-2010, 08:50 PM | #9 |
Drives: 79Z28 and 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Greenville, TX
Posts: 526
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I use Meguairs for OTC products. I apply M21 sealer followed by M26 wax. I apply both by hand, works great. Make sure you let the sealer cure for 12 hours before you apply anything over it.
I would clay to assure that you have a clean surface for either to adhere to. That might even help wax or sealer last longer. |
11-02-2010, 08:52 PM | #10 |
The enjoyment never ends
Drives: 2010 1LT/RS IOM #25223 Join Date: May 2009
Location: NKY
Posts: 1,086
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I like NXT Wax 2.0. In its name it is a wax, but it is really a synthetic sealant.
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11-02-2010, 09:01 PM | #11 |
My advice is to stop reading now. If you continue on reading from this forum you will quickly fall into the grips of detail addiction. You will find yourself spending weekends isolated from your family and become a slave to the shine. Do not under any circumstances watch the Junkman's videos.
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11-02-2010, 09:23 PM | #12 | |
The enjoyment never ends
Drives: 2010 1LT/RS IOM #25223 Join Date: May 2009
Location: NKY
Posts: 1,086
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Quote:
DETAILING IS A MUST WITH YOUR CAMARO. There is no way around it. You have to do it. Camaros must always look their best. |
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11-02-2010, 10:02 PM | #13 |
For gods sake man, get out while you still can!!! must...stop typing...and...watch more...junkman video's...and continue...shining...black...camaro...ahhhhhhhhh
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