160 Degree Thermostat

[onegoofydad]

When is it a good time to drop to a 160 degree thermostat? Is it a required change at some point in your MOD lineup list. I assume most FI guys drop down, but any advantage to dropping down when your NA?
Also any adjustments on the computer need to be made when swapping to a 160?

[ravensjeff]

160 degree thermostat was included as part of my 650 HP Lingenfelter build. When I dropped in an LSX-376, 765 HP build, from a local Corvette specialist, was told not to, not needed. Can't remember specifics but I thought it had something to do with engine specs/design.

Someone who knows alot more about these engines should give you a better answer than mine. But there was 2 different opinions by 2 reputable builders.

[Gunmetal Speedster]

Been wanting to know this as well.

[TX_ED_SS]

No need to put in a 160 thermostat. Check out a thread under the V8 bolt on section. Just search for 160 Degree Thermostat. There is some really good info in there.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ree+thermostat

[JCunningham]

when you're living in the middle east and the temps are 120F. 160 tstat is a tuner snake oil mod

[jcaligood]

I believe Ted has chimed in on this stating the engines are best running at ~200F, no need.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by jcaligood

I believe Ted has chimed in on this stating the engines are best running at ~200F, no need.

Makes me wonder what temp the ECU starts to pull timing or what the table looks like.

I know for certain that my car pulls harder when coolant is at 195 than when it is at 215....not that it gets that high very often.

[CamaroFred]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Makes me wonder what temp the ECU starts to pull timing or what the table looks like.

I know for certain that my car pulls harder when coolant is at 195 than when it is at 215....not that it gets that high very often.

When carburetors were used coolant was circulated through the intake manifold to keep the gasoline vaporized as it traveled to the intake valves.
That would, of course, heat the air entering the cylinders, making it less dense but more drivable on cold days.

With fuel injection there is no need to heat the intake manifold so coolant no longer runs through it. Thus a lower temperature thermostat doesn't have any effect on the engine, but will cause you to put on your hat and gloves and won't keep the windows defrosted when it is very cold out. (keep your mouth closed when you breathe)

I don't believe the ECU changes timing due to temperature, the MAF on your intake signals the ECU as to air density and then the fuel is adjusted to be correct. Then the O2 sensors let the ECU know if the mix isn't perfect and the ECU adjusts accordingly (short term fuel trim).

Only if the knock sensors are activated will the ECU change the timing. And on the V8s it isn't very quick to try to return to the most advanced timing possible. Thus the fuse pull to reset.

More than likely the reason your car pulls harder when the coolant is at a lower temperature is because the outside air is at a lower temperature, and thus denser, so as more oxygen is ingested more fuel is added, thus more power. That is the MAF signaling the ECU. And, as noted above, the O2 sensors have the final say to the duration of the opening of the fuel injectors.

It is rocket science.

[Aaron0731]

I know colder thermostats can be used in vehicles with superhargers to some benefit. Not sure about NA motors.

[CamaroFred]

Originally Posted by klaatu barada nikto

I run 160* SLP stats in our '15 SS and '09 Vette. Both cars run 170-180* cruising with no timing being pulled which is exactly where i want them.
Strong power plus gas mileage didn't change.
Works for me.

The SS and vette were retarding spark with the factory thermostats?

I thought the millions of super computer hours in the design would have noticed that.