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Old 01-04-2017, 01:36 PM   #1
wakespeak

 
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Rear shock replacement - R & R advice

I have some new 1LE rear shocks on the way. The install instructions say I need a spring compressor to relieve pressure on the top nut before removing it. I have one, but wondering if it is really needed and if I can just slowly unscrew the nut. Can anyone comment?
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wakespeak View Post
I have some new 1LE rear shocks on the way. The install instructions say I need a spring compressor to relieve pressure on the top nut before removing it. I have one, but wondering if it is really needed and if I can just slowly unscrew the nut. Can anyone comment?
You shouldn't need a spring compressor. just some weight on the strut to be able to insert the nut.
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Old 01-05-2017, 10:48 PM   #3
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Are you getting new 1LE front struts as well? Or do you already have them?
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:20 AM   #4
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No way I could have installed the Koni shocks on my 2013 2LT without a spring compressor. I've seen the videos that show otherwise, didn't apply to me.
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Old 01-06-2017, 12:07 PM   #5
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First of all, I don't think 1LE rear shocks are any different from normal SS shocks. The front struts are the monotube struts specific to the 1LE but I don't know about the rears.

Second, I've swapped out shocks using the same OEM spring. You *shouldn't* need a spring compressor, as I did 2-3 shock/strut replacements without one. But to get the nut started back on the strut you will need to be pretty good at pressing down the spring and threading the nut on carefully at the same time. It can be done, but it's a tricky setup.
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Old 01-06-2017, 05:24 PM   #6
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terry, GM Parts Direct shows different part numbers for rear 1LE shocks and SS shocks..

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-pa...omponents-scat
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:48 PM   #7
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Yes the rear shocks are different the 1LE shocks are stiffer compared to SS shocks.
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:09 AM   #8
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You're right.. my mistake - it's the springs that are exactly the same as the regular SS springs.

At any rate, what I said still holds true. No spring compressor required, but be careful as you loosen the nut. I laid them down and made sure it wasn't pointed at anything important. there's not a lot of tension there but there's a little
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:34 PM   #9
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Thanks for the input guys. Going to try look for my spring compressor, but good to know it can be done without it.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:21 AM   #10
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Update after install -

You do not need spring compressors. There is a slight pop when you remove the nut, so don't point it at anything. When reassembling, you can stand up the assembly, then push down some on the top mount to get the nut started.

I had to unbolt the swaybar endlinks, the shock bolts, and the bolt holding the lower control arm to the hub. The lower control arm can be then pulled away with enough clearance to remove the shock assembly. (Leave the control arm bolted to the cradle).

The instructions say to torque down the shock bolts "at trim height" so as not to twist the lower shock bushing once loaded. The control arm to hub did not have that restriction.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:44 AM   #11
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Thanks for the review, sounds too easy honestly. I hate having to use spring compressors.

What is 'trim height'?
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Old 01-19-2017, 12:56 PM   #12
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Ride height
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Old 01-19-2017, 03:01 PM   #13
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Well crap. When I rebolted the shocks after doing the subframe bushings I definitely didn't tighten them at ride height. :P
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