question: for the turbo crowd

[camarostar2010]

Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR

In your case it is hard to know for sure since increasing the displacement from 376 to 418 cubes would add hp/tq but lowering the cr reduces power.

Lowering the cr reduces power but it allows you to run more boost given the same fuel. So if you are running 9psi now but are lowering the cr one full point. The lower cr would loose about 2% power(per 1 point cr) but you would be able to up up the boost 1-2 psi giving you an overall higher hp number. So since you are turbo'ed you should be gaining 20-30 hp per lb of boost.

I think then that all things considered i made the right choice. Thanks for the numbers

[pyr0b0y]

Originally Posted by camarostar2010

Pyro the heads u are speaking of...these 12* heads..who makes them, and how much $$. I am running a texas speed block. So far all looks well. Wiseco turbo pistons, tools steel pins, and steel top rings. I have a callies compstar. The dragon is really for the all out race guy. I knows it is better but I think for my intent its money i can save. i wont be beating my car up often. I just like to press her down here and there. BTW your words on my hp out look are encouraging. I hope you are right in my case to. I have callies rods, and if u missed it i explained for cyber my head set up thus far.

Oops ya just saw that in another post. Mast Motorsports make the 12* heads, although based on my experience I would try and find another company as I didnt have a good business dealing with them. I ran the turbo kit on pretty much the same setup you had (I had the compstar crank in another LS3 motor that is getting rebuilt). I think on low boost (8psi) you can make 700-750whp and close to 800wtq no problem with the right tune. That's pretty much as safe as you can go. I would watch your oil, as the turbos will eat up some oil.

I was literally running almost the same exact setup you were before i pulled my motor out again. The motor itself should be able to standup to all of the abuse you throw at it! by the way, make sure you upgrade your dampner (to ATI IMO) and make sure you have an upraded oil pump as well. It runs a heavier duty cycles due to the turbos.

[JLE58]

Originally Posted by camarostar2010

Under normal conditions i agree but since i was doing a repair/overhaul..i figured I just start from scratch and step up cubes. If i can boost 20 psi with this set up, and (offcourse i have to chnage fuel pumps, and thing) I think I can hit a possible 100 rwhp or close and have longevity all in one...this at least is my goal. PS this is a street car, not a 1/4 mile car. I just want a poor man Buggati

I understand that.. What I'm saying is you will have a stronger motor on that ls3 block with a 376 IMHO your going to tax that 4 bolt block long before you will the stock crank on a turbo car If you were going after market block and/or different sleeves it may be different. It's your money do what you want I'm just letting you know you can save the money on a 1500 dollar crank because if done correctly you can't make enough power to break the stock one on that block. If you already have the motor this doesn't matter...

[east TX Muscle cars]

well your going to gain 40 ish HP from the CI increase, but you will loose HP from the comp dropping. The nice thing for you will be your a forged motor now, so when you do that just up the boost to 12-13 psi and have a BLAST with it!.

we did 720+ RWHP on only 9 PSI on Uniq's car a few weeks ago with all stock except our cam. You can make some great HP with TT kits

a few things to do:

make sure you have turbos spec for your motor
make sure your cam is going to work with TT and the Ci you have
HEAD STUDS!
thicker deck heads
fuel system

One thing to think about is maybe do stock CI( stock crank) and do pistons and rods. your motor will love you for alot longer that way! Plus you can push 1000 Hp all day long with this setup also

if you do all this you will make a awesome setup and have more power than you can ever use.

Dont be discouraged that you will be down a tiny bit on the stroker cause with the 418 you will be able to turn it up and do it safe, thats kindof the point

[pyr0b0y]

Originally Posted by JLE58

I understand that.. What I'm saying is you will have a stronger motor on that ls3 block with a 376 IMHO your going to tax that 4 bolt block long before you will the stock crank on a turbo car If you were going after market block and/or different sleeves it may be different. It's your money do what you want I'm just letting you know you can save the money on a 1500 dollar crank because if done correctly you can't make enough power to break the stock one on that block.

I agree with what hes saying, especially for turbo app cars. 376 is decent for a turbo, no doubt it will make more power than the stock 376 from the factory. when you go to a 418 or 427, 429 etc, you have a thinner engine wall, which means if you do keep turning up the boost, at a certain point the wall cannot take that much pressure. that's why a lot who choose to go 427 also switch to an LSX iron block. I havent really turned my boost up past 10psi but we will be pushing this block for sure! If you are worried about sleeving, I think RHS offers steel sleeves, which are a couple thousand more, but it gives some people peace of mind. Find the right tuner and be sure to ask them any concerns you have with an LS3 aluminum block. SSE 4 2SS is running an aluminum LS3, but he got it sleeved so it can take more abuse; havent heard anything happen to his motor yet.

[JLE58]

I also have a set of ls9 heads that are a much much better casting and thicker deck, better valves than the stock ls3's if you start looking for heads.

[camarostar2010]

well guys thank you for the info. I already have the 418 block and set up..so now I dont have a choice. I was told that wall thickness wouldnt be a problem for a limit of 20 psi as long as i stood under 418 cu. I was told that a 427 would is not recommended with boost at all unless I run iron. But it seems I will do fine with my setup thus far. I mentioned most of parts, and measures taken on my replays. i guess we are reading and typing at the same time.lol Cyber and pyro, will be getting a phone soon. I just need a turbo hug. i am nervous I have to say. I like to stretch the envelope. And this is the strongest engine setup i have ever proceeded with. Basically I am new to the game.

[camarostar2010]

Originally Posted by pyr0b0y

I agree with what hes saying, especially for turbo app cars. 376 is decent for a turbo, no doubt it will make more power than the stock 376 from the factory. when you go to a 418 or 427, 429 etc, you have a thinner engine wall, which means if you do keep turning up the boost, at a certain point the wall cannot take that much pressure. that's why a lot who choose to go 427 also switch to an LSX iron block. I havent really turned my boost up past 10psi but we will be pushing this block for sure! If you are worried about sleeving, I think RHS offers steel sleeves, which are a couple thousand more, but it gives some people peace of mind. Find the right tuner and be sure to ask them any concerns you have with an LS3 aluminum block. SSE 4 2SS is running an aluminum LS3, but he got it sleeved so it can take more abuse; havent heard anything happen to his motor yet.

these add on mean crazy $$4 and thats my limiting factor. But seem I was steered in the right direction...ps i have a race oil pump on deck and run a slightly higher visc syn oil.

[camarostar2010]

turbos are gt 35's