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Old 02-29-2016, 05:15 PM   #15
Mr. Stacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
Are you using the E2 with both outlets w/checkvalves? The E2 and E2-X series have dual outlets so that you can pull evacuation suction on the crankcase at all times. Make sure the secondary outlet is connected to a barb you install into the coupler or air tube just in front of the TB (as close as possible). Then this will provide constant evacuation suction instead of just at idle, cruise and deceleration as the OEM system does. This eliminates ever having pressure to deal with. That along with the Elite CSS (cleanside separator) will correct this.


We strongly suggest the cleanside unit on any catchcan install, and if you run your car hard (WOT) then the E2 or E2-X is what you need.


Checkvalves and other parts are available from us separately if needed.



Hmmmm, yes I meant to ask you about that. I consider myself pretty handy and above average intelligence, but I cannot follow the install instructions above and couldn't be confident about what tube goes where, let alone understand the benefit without a diagram of some sort.

Which is why I bought the E1 last month... at least there were instructions for an LFX that is similar to my LLT.

I might have also bought a clean side separator if there were a diagram somewhere on how that one installs on my engine.

Everybody just takes for granted that people are inherently familiar with PCV systems and hose routing and clean sides and dirty sides. I am (or was) not one of those people, but I am learning.

If Elite were more clear on the install instructions (or had any at all) and the benefits of the products, I am sure you would sell more.

That being said, now that I am a little more familiar with what everything does (still not 100% on the tube routing) can I return my E1 and get an E2 and a Clean Side Separator?

Also, there is a tube from the clean side that goes to the air intake. Where does the clean side separator fit into this system? Also, what purpose are the one-way check valves, and where do they install?

HELLO EE Guy? I have sent multiple PM's and quoted here a few times. You still there?
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:33 PM   #16
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sales@eliteengineeringusa.com

Try emailing them, they're on a lot of forums not just C5.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:45 AM   #17
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So I really just need to know:

With the new Catch Can with two outlets. Where does the second outlet go? What does it do?

Do I need check valves? Where do they go?

I think I figured out for the clean side, I plug the hose coming from the back, drivers side. Then just run a hose from the separator (that takes the place of the Oil Filler Cap) to the air intake?

Can I return my original cc for the new one? Do I even need to do this if I just get the clean side separator?

Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mr. Stacy View Post
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz........

Mr Stacey,


I will answer under each question, and our apologies for not seeing this until today!




So I really just need to know:

With the new Catch Can with two outlets. Where does the second outlet go? What does it do?


The issue with any naturally aspirated engine is the PCV system and the crankcase evacuation function of it relies entirely on the intake manifold vacuum for the suction used to remove these damaging combustion by-products that cause engine damage and wear over time. So, when you accelerate or go WOT, the intake manifold vacuum drops to zero due to cam lobe overlap and reversion pulses (more on that later) so evacuation stops. At this point, crankcase pressure builds as well as none of the damaging compounds you need the PCV system to remove are being removed, and they quickly settle and mix with the engine oil (this turns the oil dark as many see after an oil change as the damaging compounds mix). So, we improve on the function by adding the second outlet from the can to source an alternate suction source that will take over and provide suction to continue evacuation at all times. This is the area just in front, or upstream of the TB. This greatly extends engine life by reducing the normal wear all engines experience from these compounds. This is why the 2 checkvalves are used, and to work properly they have to be a low cracking rate valve that also positively closes and seals when closed. No matter what operating level you are driving, these valves open and close to always provide proper evacuation. This has another benefit, it also prevents any crankcase pressure from building in the first place. When you pull suction on the crankcase, there are several benefits. 1st, the pistons are not fighting the pressure on the downward travel so less parasitic power loss (watch this video to demonstrate):



(Of course a belt driven vacuum pump is the best solution, but cost and the fact that they wear out in short order on the street is not practical)

And your piston rings are designed to seal the best and remain the most stable with pressure above them and suction below them. When you allow pressure to build to the point of venting out a breather or a breathered can, as to vent, pressure will always be greater in the crankcase and remain present. These systems eliminate this so more power, longer engine life, and ALL Elite systems are emissions compliant. (No CARB cert for CA, but that is in the works).

Do I need check valves? Where do they go?


With the dual outlet E2 or E2-X cans, yes if doing this correctly. Also if turbo or centri blower you will. You can do the E2 w/out, but the best results are with the checkvalves. Checkvalves always flow away from the Catch Can, and are spliced into the 2 outlet lines.

I think I figured out for the clean side, I plug the hose coming from the back, drivers side. Then just run a hose from the separator (that takes the place of the Oil Filler Cap) to the air intake?


For the V6 yes. Every engine will have a "Clean" or "Fresh" side where the MAF metered filtered clean air enters the crankcase to flush out and make up for the foul/dirty vapors being evacuated out of the opposite side of the crankcase. This is the 2nd path for oil to enter the intake air charge, so the cleanside unit will stop that oil.

Can I return my original cc for the new one? Do I even need to do this if I just get the clean side separator?


Contact us direct to see if we can depending on if it has been used yet or not. We will help in any way reasonable.

Thanks!


As always, we will try to be more active here with all things catch can and crankcase evacuation related.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:27 PM   #19
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OK Thanks.

I installed my version 1 last month. I should still get some added benefit from the clean side separator. So I will order one of those.

Wish I would have got the later version!
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Stacy View Post
Went to get a new PCV and nobody had one. BTW same part:
  • Autozone: $10
  • O'Reilly's: $20
  • Advance: $29

So I just pulled the one I have. It checks out. Not clogged, and it looks like the newer version with the bigger holes. I cleaned it up and put it back. Checked the Catch Can and it's working as advertised!

Attachment 777283
When I pulled mine I just chased out the holes to the next drill size.
I also put a second o-ring on the nipple stem, and it seemed to seal it better and stop the hissing noise.
I need that plastic nipple in your pic, anyone know where I can get one?
Clip broke and had to wire it down to the nipple.
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