[zonepro77]

So if I'm viewing the pictures/schematics correctly, the blue wire with white stripe and green wire with black stripe on the X1 connector is the left subwoofer positive and negative and the lavender(can't make out the stripe color) and the Green wire with blue stripe on the X2 connector is the right subwoofer positive and negative?

[chris227]

Originally Posted by zonepro77

So if I'm viewing the pictures/schematics correctly, the blue wire with white stripe and green wire with black stripe on the X1 connector is the left subwoofer positive and negative and the lavender(can't make out the stripe color) and the Green wire with blue stripe on the X2 connector is the right subwoofer positive and negative?

Gray/black. Green/violet. The top and bottom wires on the end of the green connector. Looking straight down at the connector plugged into the amp, it will be the wires on the right side. Your correct on the x1 wires

[zonepro77]

Awesome, thanks! Hopefully my last question....I saw that you trashed your line out converter...what did you wind up using for a remote turn on?

[chris227]

Originally Posted by zonepro77

Awesome, thanks! Hopefully my last question....I saw that you trashed your line out converter...what did you wind up using for a remote turn on?

I have a kicker 300.1 it has remote built in. Turns on when RCA let's sound through. Didn't even realize it had it.

[zonepro77]

Great! Thank you for the help!

[chris227]

After numerous attempts to get the bass right on this system,I decide to try connecting both left and right RCA cables together and just connect to the rear/left subwoofer wires and it hits hard as hell. If I run the cables separately left/ rear and rear subwoofer wires the bass is cut in half! Have no idea why. Can anyone post their setup and experience wiring this thing? If I wire just the rear sub wires, bass is horrible. What I have done sounds great now after trial and error. Also I can't fade to right or I lose all bass. Only left, that normal? Any ideas? I've installed tons of amps, never to a Bose equipped system. This is all new to me.

[chris227]

Originally Posted by gblaue

It's because the outputs of the Bose amplifier are differential, and the RCA inputs are single ended. You're only looking at half the signal.

So the sound I'm getting is the best it's going to get? Its really good bass with both RCA's tiesd together. Just awkward wiring it that way.

[tecboy]

Anyone know what the BOSE amp output in watts per channel is?

[chris227]

Originally Posted by gblaue

I'm not quite sure what you mean whe you say you tied the RCAs together. Did you tie the speaker outputs to the both RCAs to feed both left and right into the external amp?

Yes that is the only way I have got decent sound, I also tried wiring the RCA to the rear/subwoofer backwards, neg/POS & POS/neg that produces the same as wiring the RCA's together to the rear/left sub. But don't wanna have it wired backwards like that.

[chris227]

Originally Posted by gblaue

I don't know what the input structure of the Kicker amp looks like, I'm assuming it's just a L-R Low pass summing circuit. I just puzzled why you have tripped the output speaker diagnostics. The Kicker inputs must be really high impedance. I'll have to buy one for the lab.

But anyways, you have it the best way that you're going to get it, if my assumptions of their input structure are correct.

It's a kicker cxa300.1 (2016). Enough for what I need. Its working good. Just the wiring is odd. Thanks for your input on my questions.

[Joey Rosario]

Does anyone make a Bose jumper wiring harness for the RCA sub connection so a person does not have to splice wires? Or a way around a LOC for the Sub..

[chris227]

Originally Posted by Joey Rosario

Does anyone make a Bose jumper wiring harness for the RCA sub connection so a person does not have to splice wires? Or a way around a LOC for the Sub..

Not that I have found. Some people with other Bose systems have made their own. If you can find the connectors u can make Ur own. or just get the pin inserts and tap in a extra wire for the +/- you need. That's my plan in the next week or 2.

[chris227]

I disconnected the x3 connector which is the rpm sensor basically. Have tried this before to see if i could tell a difference in sound. First time was a relatively short distance and wasn't 100% sure if it did anything. Tried it today driving 10 miles without it and the stereo cranked and bass up on my amp. Then on the way home i had it plugged it back in and noticed a pretty noticeable difference in bass. I really cant tell a difference untill i get over 50 mph with it plugged in.but with it unplugged the bass stays consistent. seems to drop out alot with it plugged in. Just wanted to post my experience with doing this. Have decided to leave it unplugged.

[chris227]

Originally Posted by gblaue

Actually, it's not RPM. It's you amps communication wire to the high speed CAN bus in the vehicle. Your are taking away the amplifier's knowledge of speed and engine RPM. Basically, you have no speed compensation, in addition to noise/vibration cancellation.

Here's an interesting experiment. Leave the connector unplugged overnight. See if the amp wakes up. The wire in X3 can serve one of two purposes, HS CAN or an Enable line (Don't get excited, it's just a pulse). It is configured when it's manufactured for either function, not both. Yours is CAN. If the amp doesn't wake up, just plug it back in. The reason that your amp is still working,I i suspect, is that the CAN bus is alive when you have your doors and etc open, so the amp is awake when you are unplugging it. Let the CAN bus go to sleep and see what happens.

Will check it in the morning. Been unplugged and car off and locked for about. 2 hours now. Will report back what happens. Hope I can just leave it unplugged. Sounds better that way.