05-04-2015, 08:15 PM | #43 |
05-04-2015, 08:16 PM | #44 |
Haha Yes I have been looking into doing this upgrade this summer. Know this will help low down the while noise.
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05-04-2015, 08:17 PM | #45 |
Thank you to those with posotive feedback I appreciate it.
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05-04-2015, 08:21 PM | #46 | |
It's in the hole!
Drives: '11 2SS L99 SGM, '18 2SS, M6, HWSE Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,377
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05-04-2015, 08:22 PM | #47 | |
Drives: 2010 rs 2lt Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,497
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05-04-2015, 08:23 PM | #48 | |
It's in the hole!
Drives: '11 2SS L99 SGM, '18 2SS, M6, HWSE Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,377
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The fact that this is your "first" american made car (Canada, Eh!) is sad to me. |
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05-04-2015, 08:26 PM | #49 |
603 Camaros
Drives: 2017 NGM I4 1LT Coupe Join Date: May 2012
Location: Manchester, NH
Posts: 6,779
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the blower noise i coulda sworn they had a TSB to fix that under warranty which your out of by now falls under the bumper to bumper one unfortunately. They literally cut the blower out of your dash and replace it screwing it back in through your dash sounds like your low on freon or your lines are icing up to quickly.
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05-04-2015, 08:28 PM | #50 | |
Drives: 2023 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 1,437
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Quote:
On your A/C issues, see a different dealer. Or take it to an independent shop. Restricted airflow over the condenser can cause it to freeze up, and so can an insufficient charge. If there's insufficient charge, there may be a tiny leak somewhere that's bleeding off refrigerant. A good shop will do a pressure test or a leak test. |
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05-04-2015, 08:43 PM | #51 |
Onyx_Z7 < Instagram
Drives: 2013 2ss 1le Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Delaware
Posts: 634
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05-04-2015, 10:14 PM | #52 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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Quote:
Seems odd that the cold air would just stop. Might help to have it not on the coldest setting? I know that might be difficult in the summer but might be what works best.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
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05-04-2015, 10:25 PM | #53 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS.. her name is "Lucille" Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dodge City, Ks.
Posts: 44
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A couple things to look at before you take it to the shop.
when running the A/C, you should have some water dripping from underneath the vehicle. that is the condensation from the humid air to the cold part of the system. When the A/C stops blowing cold air, is it still dripping water? And when the blower starts chirping, or gets noisy, is it blowing warm air? If you are not seeing any water dripping from under the car with the A/C running,after a few minutes, you may have a clogged drain tube, and that is easily cleaned out. I suspect that due to the high humidity in that region, and potential for lots of small debris to get into the duct work, the drian may be clogged, and couple that with it possibly being slightly low on refrigerant, that excess water building up in there will freeze pretty easily. keep in mind, the new refrigerants are less forgiving, less efficient, and dont work as well as the old R-12 systems did back in the day. I would also make it a point to power wash the front of your grill area (the A/C and radiator area) really well, as a build up of bugs, and road debris can also cause lower heat disipation, thus causing lower A/C performance. That being said, I would wash the front of the car really well, and check for water draining from the drain tube after its been running about 5-10 minutes. If that looks good, and your still having issues, only then would I take it to a shop to check the refrigerant level. |
05-04-2015, 10:53 PM | #54 |
Drives: 2011 Synergy Green 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 77
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A very good mechanic once told me the best way to make my a/c last is to ALWAYS have it on while driving. The loss of mpg's is quite negligible He said that running the a/c keeps the seals pliable, and is much less likely to leak refrigerant. I took that advice with my truck. Bought it new in 2008. 132,000 miles with shutting off the a/c. Zero issues. I do this with all my cars and have never had to recharge any of them. And to the guy who said he gets too cold with the a/c on: You do know you can adjust the temperature, don't you????
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2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Synergy Green LS3/M6
Skip Shift Eliminator Vitesse Throttle Controller 2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5/TRD Independent Amsoil Dealer |
05-04-2015, 11:06 PM | #55 |
Going places
Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Victory Red Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,897
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Check down in the issues thread. There was a TSB for the A/C a long time ago. I had mine repaired under warranty.
Mine is a 2011, but here's a thread about 2011s, but could be a similar problem http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ir+conditioner
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05-05-2015, 12:22 AM | #56 |
Drives: 2012 CRT ZL1 #1400 Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: AZ.
Posts: 942
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Only time I had the AC not blow cold air is when the engine got heat soaked form 114 degree weather and stuck in stop/go traffic. Once I got free of the traffic congestion and got some air through the front of the car, started blowing cold again.
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