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Old 08-15-2014, 10:53 AM   #15
YoungMulaBaby
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevrenz View Post
those suck..

I would use the T Taps like the link I provided for you.
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3M...H0RMMSZKWB4RNC

Also get these for the other end.

http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...EMAP21ZSD7Z6FS
I second this, too.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:58 AM   #16
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Or just don't use t-taps. They are junk. Do it properly and solder and heat shrink.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:33 PM   #17
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I am with Caswell239,I also do not use t-taps. I solder and heat shrink when possible then I use tape. Not had a wire come lose in 40 years that I been working electronics. When some other places where I took my car to the used t-taps and guess what lose connections.
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:04 PM   #18
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I never in my 18 yrs of installing high audio systems & remote startes used t-taps !!!!! Strip the wire and poke it with a pick ! Insert in wire through it and wrap around the exposed wire! Then tape it and then Zip tie where the connection is over the tape ! You'll never have a Problem doing it like this !
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:04 PM   #19
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Or your Solder if you can!
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:12 PM   #20
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You live in Cinci go to Radio Shack. They have all the kinds listed and they will work fine.
Sometimes its tough to solder if there is not a lot of room. I have used all kinds of t taps and scotch clips. As long as your careful you'll be fine. I have been a tech/electronics junky for well over 40 years.
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:21 PM   #21
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Scotch locks and t- taps create resistance in which causes heat ! I've seen my fare share of then melted !
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:19 AM   #22
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That just means they were installed incorrectly or sized wrong. Heat or melted ones means they used a size too big. Actually easy to do if your not careful. I have seen many wires with oversized insulation leading you to believe the conductor was bigger.
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:42 AM   #23
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Yup. When used correctly, t-taps are fine. The big problem is that people use the wrong size a lot!

Most t-taps are IDC (insulation displacement connector), which is very popular connecting wires across multiple industries, especially telecom, and, computers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulat...ment_connector
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:23 PM   #24
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I bought 22-18 T-Taps and the male end disconnects. I got the disconnects from RadioShack, and they were in the drawer labeled "22-18". I looked at the bag, and they were all 22-16 gauge, not 18. I bought them since they were only $2.49. The serial/product code on the bag corresponds to the 22-18 gauge in the store's system, so I'm hoping that the bag is just mislabeled as 22-16.

If they are in-fact 22-16, will they be compatible with the 22-18 T-Taps? It may be a dumb question, but I just don't know much about this.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:37 PM   #25
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22-16 seems like a strange range. Never saw that before. 22-18 is the norm.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:59 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjmautoprod View Post
22-16 seems like a strange range. Never saw that before. 22-18 is the norm.
I knew something seemed odd about it... The bag itself says 22-16, but it was in the 22-18 drawer (all of the bags in that drawer said 22-16, though), and the product number matches exactly to the 22-18's product number. I'm guessing the bag just may be mislabeled.

I'm going to drive to a different RadioShack to see if they have any actual 22-18's.
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Old 08-16-2014, 01:52 PM   #27
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Now, this is just odd.. I've been to two RadioShacks and an Ace Hardware now. The store product labels have all said 22-18, but the containers themselves all say 22-16.

Anybody have any idea why it's like this?
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Old 08-16-2014, 02:32 PM   #28
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Sorry about posting so much, I just want to guarantee that I get this all correct the first time around. I just purchased these tap splices. They're 22-18 gauge, so they are the same gauge as the dome light wire. These will work, right? I shouldn't need anything else to splice the two wires?

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