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Old 06-18-2010, 11:06 AM   #15
SRFnSNO
 
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Drives: Blown & Flamed
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I have the G-Tech Pro and am having a hard time getting it to read RPMs?
Wired up a Aux Power supply directly off the Power post up in the Front of car.
have a Very light fuse in line.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:42 AM   #16
nuptualnemesis
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Drives: Silver 1SS M6 - 480hp 11.57/120.79
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You will get max performance with an M6 by shifting as close to 6,400 as possible. You do need to set a shift light prior to 6,400 to allow for reaction time in first gear and probably in second gear. Wind third as for as you can. If you hit the limiter it will close the throttle and bog for several seconds and really slow you down. This can be tuned out of the computer and still allow spark pull at the limiter.

Only tune for a rpm higher limit with rebuilt trunion arms on stock rockers and probably only advantagous with a cam. I am pulling 7,000 rpms with a big cam, rebuilt stock rockers and oversize high strength push rods. No additional valve train requirements.

An LS1 chain tensioner and aftermarket timing chain is a good idea with a cam.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:42 PM   #17
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:24 PM   #18
xXSicSicSicXx
 
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i feel like the rev limiter is set lower that 6500 for mine
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:17 PM   #19
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I have been shifting at 6400 in every gear when I drag and that really seems to be the best way to maximize the power in that gear (at least until fourth).

Cruising around town I shift between 2-3k rpm.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:40 PM   #20
marsmann
 
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Vert M6
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For some reason, I have not been able to yield any true performance out of this car compared to other cars I have owned over the last 35 years or so. I have the hurst short shift option on my M6 too and have always found this car somewhat awkward to be honest. But, these days I do not drive aggressively on average. 99% of the time I just drive it like any normal car and don't break 2k rpms when shifting.

But, to echo what some of the others have already said, the goal is to maximize the area just before the power curve. If you study the power curve on any car, you really want to just find peak power. And when you do and know where that is you just pass that slightly to shift. Don't worry so much about peak torque either.

If the curve is close to symmetric around the peak, you'll want to shift so that you will be at the same power before and after shift.

If the curve drops quickly after the peak, shift just after you cross the peak. The 'nosedive' scenario mentioned earlier in the post.

If the curve is close to flat after the peak, go to redline or maybe rev limiter. But certainly dont make a habit of living at rev limiter range.

This is the way I have always understood it, and drive. Granted, my techniques are old and in use for over 30yrs and newer cars are much more efficient with the tuning capabilities we have today. I am sure there is a LOT I don't know and can be schooled on by new schoolers for sure on how to extract peak performance.

But this has worked well for me. The GTech will definitely help to find and identify. Also, remember no two cars are the same so base it directly on your own car's findings.
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:55 AM   #21
samman11
 
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I hit the rev limit and had the power shut down on me this weekend. Kind of scared me. I was on an expressway feeder, slightly downhill, and gave full throttle in 1st. I was watching my rpms, but it must have gone over the limit, when suddenly the power just cut out. Man, I thought my tranny gave out! Shifted quickly to 2nd and all was ok. So, I didn't know that if I reached the 6200 rpm mark, the computer takes over and kills power. I had traction and stabiltrak shut off, but I guess there's still a computer watching over us.
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