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Old 02-21-2012, 07:01 AM   #1
BullF-16
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Help! ABS, servece stabilitrak, traction control lites on

Help! ABS, servece stabilitrak, traction control lites on
Just had the clutch replaced as well as a complete 9" rear end kit with new driveshaft, axles installed.

9 hrs later when everything was done. we started the car and ABS, service stabilitrak, traction control and stabilitrak lites were all on and would not clear.

The laptop was plugged in and the tuner tried that route, we disconnected teh battery for about 5 min and hooked it back up. Still all these lights are on,

It was late and the shops guru at this sort of thing was unavailable to troubleshoot.

I live a hundred miles away so i drove it home hoping they would eventually clear, no luck got home late last night and all the lights were still on.

Funny thing is a have an Ultragauge and aslo the Torque application on my droid. Neither of these picks up any codes, they say no codes found. even send the clear command and the lights remain.

We double checked the ABS hookups and they were fine.

Anyone have any Ideas, i really dont want to have to drive back to FT Worth. The car drove fine, couldnt really hammer on it due to gear break in and clutch breakin protocols.

Thanks
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:35 PM   #2
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bump any ideas
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:59 PM   #3
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Hmmmm, all the ABS sensors are connected at the wheels? Not sure where in the rear they run to along the trailing arm or toe rod (one of those two).

Did you have a gear change? Taller, lower? Blown fuse or a pulled relay maybe?

Can you still use the "nanny button"? Hold it for the seven seconds until everything is off, then turn it back on?

This is the first I've heard of something like this. Just hoping it's something simple.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:11 PM   #4
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one of the first things we did is check the ABS lines and connections. No problems there. The nannies button does nothing now. Held it down for a long time, pushed it rapidly at other times and nothing. I disconnected the battery again and will leave it off longer than 5 minutes like we did last night. I was thinking maybe fuses, i will check that. My scantool "ultra gauge" does not see any thing nor does my Torque app i use on my droid.

Yes we did change GR from 3.45 to 3.50 but we input the new gears and tire/wheel size in using their lap top. SNL Performance has a guru for this type of thing but he just had a baby (his wife actually)ha ha, hopefully if i cant figure it out up here in a couple days i can drive it all the way back to figure it out. Car drives better than ever however
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:12 PM   #5
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Well, I dropped a note in Dangeruss' build thread to see if he experienced anything like this when he swapped to the LPE rear.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:14 PM   #6
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Thanks, going to check the fuses
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:24 PM   #7
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This was the question I asked and the reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by garcmol View Post
Question for you. When you swapped your rear diff and axles, did you get any service stabilitrac, traction control or ABS service lights? Forum member Bull F-16 just had a rear end swap and has these service lights coming on. Just wondering if there is some sort of trick to this or if it could be something simple that was just overlooked.

750 and then the dope? Wow, that's a beast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangeruss View Post
If he changed from factory gears he'll get all kinds of codes. Needs to be fixed in the tune.
So, I'm reading above that you guys did input the wheel/tire/gear sizes, so now I'm kind of stumped based on Russ' answer. I wonder if you would flash the gear ratio + a 20" wheel/tire setup the same height as your 19"s would agree with the control module.

This is the Justice car setup, right?
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:37 PM   #8
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Yep, Justice setup with Pedders Camaro wheels/tires. We input the new size wheels tires and 3.50 gears. Now the speedo matches the gps, and on the drive down to Ft worth for the rearend the speedo was off 8.4% due to the wheels/tires but no ABS or other lights.

Also, as soon as we fired it up after the install without moving the car, all the lights were on. So we plugged up the tuners laptop and he did his thing with gears and tires etc. We figured drive it home and maybe the ECM will figure out whats going on. Like i said earlier, My ultragauge and Torque app are not reading anything and they have worked in the past for reading codes and sending clear commands. Neither scan tool is seeing the codes for any malfunctions.

I wonder is pulling the 5 and 20 fuse will help the ECM forget these lights. Will it dump my very elaborate Dallas Performance tune, that would suck
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:50 PM   #9
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Yeah that would definately suck! If your check engine light isn't on, you're not going to pick up any codes.

I found these for the underhood fuse box

#43 (j case fuse) ABS pump
#2 TCM
#19 TCM/ignition
#40 ABS valves
K632 (micro relay) Brake vacuum pump

Now, based on you can't read a trouble code, I'm wondering if something didn't take when he input the new gears. Is the Check Engine Light on? Or it took, but for example, turned off the nannies in the programming. Maybe? Maybe not on purpose, but the programming just defaulted that way. I say that, because the nanny button does nothing now.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:16 PM   #10
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I had them same exact codes come up when I went to start may car for the first time about two weeks ago. I had been down for six weeks while I was working on it. Turn out the be one of the plugs that goes to the fuse box wants in all the way. Might want to check all your connectors.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:04 PM   #11
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ive checked all the fuses and connections. I took in to the dealership and made an appt to drop it off tomorrow morning to see what they can diagnose. The manager seems to think its just a coincidence that it happened right after the rear end install. He says it will probably be covered under warranty even though i told him probably not.

I need to tell the tech to keep his computer out of my engine parameters in my tune. Dont want that to be trashed!

Im wondering what is the benefit to all these damn computer overrides anyway. I know how to apply brakes and when to let off. Still the lights are annoying the shit out of me. More to follow

The car gathered quite a crowd of the service dept employees for the 5 minutes i was there.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:06 PM   #12
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I have had the same problem on my 98 when I swapped to a 9", but thats because I put 28" radials on the rear and skinnies on the front. So even if you add the correct wheel height and gear ratio, I think the ABS/etc freaks out because of the difference in tire size.

Maybe not be the same problem you are having, but thats what happened to me. I can put factory tires on and it all goes away.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:47 PM   #13
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I just installed a different diff, with different gears in my car. When I was done, I turned the key on to program the computer and the same lights that you have, came on. Instantly...before the car was driven. What happend with me, and I know has happend to others, is the ABS sensor wire is fragile. If it is pulled on or bent, it can be damaged. It will show no signs of damage on the outside, but the inside will break. And it just so happend that I bent the right rear sensor wire too much and broke it.

I got a new one, plugged it in, and all the lights went out. So while your diff was being replaced, if sombody didn't notice it until they pulled on it, chances are it was snapped on the inside. They're easy to replace and cheap.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Daddy Kane View Post
I just installed a different diff, with different gears in my car. When I was done, I turned the key on to program the computer and the same lights that you have, came on. Instantly...before the car was driven. What happend with me, and I know has happend to others, is the ABS sensor wire is fragile. If it is pulled on or bent, it can be damaged. It will show no signs of damage on the outside, but the inside will break. And it just so happend that I bent the right rear sensor wire too much and broke it.

I got a new one, plugged it in, and all the lights went out. So while your diff was being replaced, if sombody didn't notice it until they pulled on it, chances are it was snapped on the inside. They're easy to replace and cheap.

Big Daddy, this image has been going thru my head since the install. To get the oem axles out we had to disconnect the lower control arms and a couple other suspension parts to get the hub and rotor assembly to rotate up vertically enough to get the outer stubs of the OE axles out of the hubs. I dont know how much stress this placed on the ABS sensor connections on the hub assembly but i bet it was enough.

I remember helping with this since Dustin was trying to do it by himself. We did check after the install and getting the lights. all the wiring and connections looked in tact. I bet you are right. He plastic housing protecting the wiring is ok but the fragile wiring inside is stressed and maybe broken.

Again the dealership here was willing to look at it because they seem really curious about my car even though nothing is OEM any more except the gas cap.

I will stress that they look here first. I could do it, but i already made the appt and they seem really willing to work with me which is kind of rare when you start modding your car. I will see where it takes me
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