Differential Bushing Remaval HELP! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

hairzee · 04-03-2013, 10:20 PM

I finally got my bushings from BMR and thouht I would start with the 1LE differential I have sitting on my work bench just waiting to be installed.

Following the BMR directions I used a 2" hole saw and drilled the rubber bushing out of the case. After 30 minutes of trying to unsuccessfully remove the "aluminum" case I realize that its not aluminum but steel.

I am thinking I have made a HUGE mistake. Are these bushings better than the SS. Should I have just left those bushings alone?

Too late now how do I get these things out???

JusticePete · 04-03-2013, 10:44 PM

Too late to change direction. Get out your sawzall and very carefully make a cut through the steel jacket. Take your time and go SLOW. Once the first cut is made make a second cut about an inch away. Pry out that section. Now you can fold the bush in and it will fall out.

If you have an air hammer, blunt a cutting chisel bit. We don't want to cut the bush jacket we want to fold it from the edges in and drive it out. A sharp chisel bit will just keep cutting. We want a blunt bit to hammer it out the other side.

jeremywes · 04-04-2013, 07:16 AM

For the other bushings you might try a 2 arm puller and some heat. The trick will be in getting the right size washer or socket to grab that steel jacket as you try to push it out. I have a set that should be on my doorstep later today so please post your progress! Good luck bud.

vfrider · 04-04-2013, 07:36 AM

I put Pfadt bushings in my diff, along with other goodies, in my garage and had to rent a compressor and buy an air hammer ($15). I was afraid of compromising the loops of the aluminum diff with a sawzall. When I tried to use a screw type press kit, the plates were either slightly too large or would just pull into the soft steel. The crap compressor I rented at Home Depot couldn't run the hammer continuously, so it still took about 45 minutes to chisel out all 3, having to wait for pressure to build. Even with that consideration though, it was the best way by far.

hairzee · 04-04-2013, 11:46 AM

Great. Thanks guys.

I did try the reciprocating saw and as you guys well know those things can be pretty aggressive. I am a bit of a tool who're so this is a good excuse to pick up a air chisel.

I also tried to fabricate a puller using some pipe and a large c-clamp. I couldn't get it to move. I have a torch but was concerned about messing up the aluminum case.

Its nice knowing I am on the right track and I didn't screw anything up.

I will post my progress.

JusticePete · 04-04-2013, 11:49 AM

Move at your own pace and comfort level. If you put a large nic or small cut into the aluminum case don't worry about it. Smooth it out before you install the bushes. With the bushes in no one will ever see them and unless you cut a 1/4 deep groove across the entire casting it won't compromise the integrity of the part.

Bomino · 04-04-2013, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Too late to change direction.

Pete, how are you supposed to remove the bushing if you haven't gotten to that point by beating it with a hammer? These things are in so tight it seems like cutting is the only way... But there has to be an easier way

JusticePete · 04-04-2013, 12:30 PM

Experience with an air hammer and blunt bit is the easiest way. My fastest tech is Heath, the owner of American Muffler. 54 seconds for one bush. Quality skilled tech with a SnapOn air hammer. We do make a press plate that is the right size and sell it pretty cheap. You can use a hydraulic press and the plate or set up a bolt cup press.

Where people go wrong is they think about folding the bush in to get it to release. We don't see it that way. It was pushed in. We want to push it out. We fold the tail of the bush, the end of the bush wit no flange in with a blunt bit. Once we get a bit folded in we use the blunt bit and air hammer to push it out. If the chisel bit is sharp the impacts from the hammer cut. We don't want cutting. The blunt cisel bit is a hammer that pushes the bush out.

My personal best is 8 minutes for all three, but then again that is a world record for a sales guy from a company with no engineers :-P

Bomino · 04-04-2013, 12:32 PM

Good info. Thanks pete

jeremywes · 04-04-2013, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Experience with an air hammer and blunt bit is the easiest way. My fastest tech is Heath, the owner of American Muffler. 54 seconds for one bush. Quality skilled tech with a SnapOn air hammer. We do make a press plate that is the right size and sell it pretty cheap. You can use a hydraulic press and the plate or set up a bolt cup press.

Where people go wrong is they think about folding the bush in to get it to release. We don't see it that way. It was pushed in. We want to push it out. We fold the tail of the bush, the end of the bush wit no flange in with a blunt bit. Once we get a bit folded in we use the blunt bit and air hammer to push it out. If the chisel bit is sharp the impacts from the hammer cut. We don't want cutting. The blunt cisel bit is a hammer that pushes the bush out.

My personal best is 8 minutes for all three, but then again that is a world record for a sales guy from a company with no engineers :-P

8 MINUTES! Damn. Now I'm gonna have that in my head this weekend as I'm fighting to get mine out... "Pete can do it in 8 minutes"

What's your record for subframe bushings? wait maybe I don't want to know.

This weekend I'm replacing every bush in the rear cradle and I think if I can do it in 8 hours I'll be doing good.

JusticePete · 04-04-2013, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremywes

8 MINUTES! Damn. Now I'm gonna have that in my head this weekend as I'm fighting to get mine out... "Pete can do it in 8 minutes"

What's your record for subframe bushings? wait maybe I don't want to know.

This weekend I'm replacing every bush in the rear cradle and I think if I can do it in 8 hours I'll be doing good.

Using the Pedders press plate, acme threaded rod, washers, bearings, receiver and rattle gun while working with Jimmie and Heath wanting to show off what under-car superstars we are --- diff and sub-frame bushes removed and installed along with the driver's side toe bolt (the gas tank is in the way so the sub-frame have to be down) 90 minutes on a brand new 5th Gen. Under normal conditions that is four hours of work.

Are you using the Pedders Z style steel jacketed bushes for the trailing arms with ZL1 OE Toe links?

MARINE1991 · 04-04-2013, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Too late to change direction. Get out your sawzall and very carefully make a cut through the steel jacket. Take your time and go SLOW. Once the first cut is made make a second cut about an inch away. Pry out that section. Now you can fold the bush in and it will fall out.

If you have an air hammer, blunt a cutting chisel bit. We don't want to cut the bush jacket we want to fold it from the edges in and drive it out. A sharp chisel bit will just keep cutting. We want a blunt bit to hammer it out the other side.

my performace shop use it and I was like

but it worked out great...

caverman · 04-04-2013, 01:59 PM

Andy @ ADM did mine when he did a gear swap for me. From what I remember is was a single cut and an few blows from a shop hammer. It's possible it could've been two cuts. Still nothing more than a sawsall, a good blade, and a shop hammer. I think each one took less than a minute to get out.

BMR Sales · 04-04-2013, 03:33 PM

I generally use a little pneumatic air saw and make two cuts through the steel outer sleeve which releases the tension then you can tap them out with a hammer. I like using the pneumatic air saw better than the recipricating saw (sawzall) because ti isn't as violent and it is easier to control.

04-03-2013, 10:20 PM	#1
hairzee Drives: 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 177	Differential Bushing Remaval HELP! I finally got my bushings from BMR and thouht I would start with the 1LE differential I have sitting on my work bench just waiting to be installed. Following the BMR directions I used a 2" hole saw and drilled the rubber bushing out of the case. After 30 minutes of trying to unsuccessfully remove the "aluminum" case I realize that its not aluminum but steel. I am thinking I have made a HUGE mistake. Are these bushings better than the SS. Should I have just left those bushings alone? Too late now how do I get these things out??? Attached Images __________________ 2010 SS, CAI intake, Kooks 1 7/8 LT with high flow cats, Pfadt Sways and Springs, Lloyds Mats, Magnaflow 3"cat back, Ported TB, JRE tune, Rx Catch Can, Forgestar F14, BMR subframe, BMR 4point strut brace.

04-04-2013, 11:46 AM	#5
hairzee Drives: 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 177	Great. Thanks guys. I did try the reciprocating saw and as you guys well know those things can be pretty aggressive. I am a bit of a tool who're so this is a good excuse to pick up a air chisel. I also tried to fabricate a puller using some pipe and a large c-clamp. I couldn't get it to move. I have a torch but was concerned about messing up the aluminum case. Its nice knowing I am on the right track and I didn't screw anything up. I will post my progress. __________________ 2010 SS, CAI intake, Kooks 1 7/8 LT with high flow cats, Pfadt Sways and Springs, Lloyds Mats, Magnaflow 3"cat back, Ported TB, JRE tune, Rx Catch Can, Forgestar F14, BMR subframe, BMR 4point strut brace.

04-04-2013, 12:32 PM	#9
Bomino Drives: 2011 2ss/rs Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Nurburgring Posts: 104	Good info. Thanks pete __________________

04-04-2013, 01:59 PM	#13
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	Andy @ ADM did mine when he did a gear swap for me. From what I remember is was a single cut and an few blows from a shop hammer. It's possible it could've been two cuts. Still nothing more than a sawsall, a good blade, and a shop hammer. I think each one took less than a minute to get out. Attached Images __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

04-03-2013, 10:44 PM	#2
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	Too late to change direction. Get out your sawzall and very carefully make a cut through the steel jacket. Take your time and go SLOW. Once the first cut is made make a second cut about an inch away. Pry out that section. Now you can fold the bush in and it will fall out. If you have an air hammer, blunt a cutting chisel bit. We don't want to cut the bush jacket we want to fold it from the edges in and drive it out. A sharp chisel bit will just keep cutting. We want a blunt bit to hammer it out the other side.

04-04-2013, 07:16 AM	#3
jeremywes Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 504 View My Garage	For the other bushings you might try a 2 arm puller and some heat. The trick will be in getting the right size washer or socket to grab that steel jacket as you try to push it out. I have a set that should be on my doorstep later today so please post your progress! Good luck bud.

04-04-2013, 07:36 AM	#4
vfrider Drives: 2012 2ss/rs mt Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Baja Zona Posts: 81	I put Pfadt bushings in my diff, along with other goodies, in my garage and had to rent a compressor and buy an air hammer ($15). I was afraid of compromising the loops of the aluminum diff with a sawzall. When I tried to use a screw type press kit, the plates were either slightly too large or would just pull into the soft steel. The crap compressor I rented at Home Depot couldn't run the hammer continuously, so it still took about 45 minutes to chisel out all 3, having to wait for pressure to build. Even with that consideration though, it was the best way by far.

04-04-2013, 11:49 AM	#6
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	Move at your own pace and comfort level. If you put a large nic or small cut into the aluminum case don't worry about it. Smooth it out before you install the bushes. With the bushes in no one will ever see them and unless you cut a 1/4 deep groove across the entire casting it won't compromise the integrity of the part.

04-04-2013, 12:30 PM	#8
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	Experience with an air hammer and blunt bit is the easiest way. My fastest tech is Heath, the owner of American Muffler. 54 seconds for one bush. Quality skilled tech with a SnapOn air hammer. We do make a press plate that is the right size and sell it pretty cheap. You can use a hydraulic press and the plate or set up a bolt cup press. Where people go wrong is they think about folding the bush in to get it to release. We don't see it that way. It was pushed in. We want to push it out. We fold the tail of the bush, the end of the bush wit no flange in with a blunt bit. Once we get a bit folded in we use the blunt bit and air hammer to push it out. If the chisel bit is sharp the impacts from the hammer cut. We don't want cutting. The blunt cisel bit is a hammer that pushes the bush out. My personal best is 8 minutes for all three, but then again that is a world record for a sales guy from a company with no engineers :-P

04-04-2013, 03:33 PM	#14
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	I generally use a little pneumatic air saw and make two cuts through the steel outer sleeve which releases the tension then you can tap them out with a hammer. I like using the pneumatic air saw better than the recipricating saw (sawzall) because ti isn't as violent and it is easier to control.