Cylinder head removal and install

['10CamaroSS]

I'm looking for a good DIY on removing and reinstalling my heads. It's more the reinstalling that I'm kind of not so sure about. Any help would be much appreciated.

[SNSSTR]

Here's a little write-up that may help you out.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197733

['10CamaroSS]

Thank you. I've read this thread before and from what I understand as long as #1 cylinder is at TDC than their is no certain order that the rods, rockers need to be installed. Is this correct? I'm no mechanic but I'm definitely not a dummy I'm just trying to get as much info as possible before deciding if this is something I can attempt in my garage.

[SNSSTR]

I'll be honest, I've never done it myself, however, from what little knowledge I have, I don't believe that there is any certain order that the rods and rockers need to be installed. That would be a good question to ask in the V8 Help Desk

[Broke Pilot]

If you're referring to the order of removal, then no, you can pull them off in any order. But when you do, have a large space to lay them out in order they came out if you're no replacing any of it. Each pushrod and rocker arm needs to go back in the same place it came off.

['10CamaroSS]

Does each cylinder have to be at TDC when torquing that set if rockers down?

[flyinglow57]

Originally Posted by '10CamaroSS

Does each cylinder have to be at TDC when torquing that set if rockers down?

no the ls motors are unique and can be torqued down right to 23 lbs or what ever the tq spec is. alot better than the old motors.

['10CamaroSS]

I appreciate what little feedback I did get on this thread although I thought it was going to be a lot more helpful.

[SSMickey]

Push rods are the same length, so they can go back where ever. You do have different intake and exhaust rockers, so they have to go back on an intake or exhaust valve, but that's it. It is a good idea, to bring each cylinder to TDC to ensure both valves are closed on that cylinder prior to installing the rockers and torqueing them. This is done to ensure you get an accurate torque and valve spring pressure is not affecting the rocker arm bolt torque.

Now, if you want to keep track of where each push rod and rocker arm came from and reinstall to the same position, that fine too. It's actually a pretty good habit to get into.

['10CamaroSS]

Thank you for the help

[ZL1 Lingenfelter]

Originally Posted by SSMickey

Push rods are the same length, so they can go back where ever. You do have different intake and exhaust rockers, so they have to go back on an intake or exhaust valve, but that's it. It is a good idea, to bring each cylinder to TDC to ensure both valves are closed on that cylinder prior to installing the rockers and torqueing them. This is done to ensure you get an accurate torque and valve spring pressure is not affecting the rocker arm bolt torque.

Now, if you want to keep track of where each push rod and rocker arm came from and reinstall to the same position, that fine too. It's actually a pretty good habit to get into.

Its not a good habit, its nearly a requirement. LS motors do not have adjustable rocker nuts like old SBCs. They run hydraulic lifters that require an exact amount of preload (between 0.003 and 0.006") if I am not mistaken. This is done by using a pushrod that has been tweaked to an exact length for each lifter to give the correct preload on the lifter and the corresponding rocker. Therefore, each pushrod and rocker MUST go back in the same spot for the same lifter as removed. It will work if you dont use the same order, but it is not recommended.

[AGM 1LE]

[JCunningham]

Originally Posted by flyinglow57

no the ls motors are unique and can be torqued down right to 23 lbs or what ever the tq spec is. alot better than the old motors.

WRONG
you have to be on the base circle or your tq will be off. The valve spring on the open valves will cause a incorrect reading.
all the push rods are the same length the pre load is .030 to .120. Some builder do .030 but GM is more around .100. pushrods and rockers should go in the same place because of wear. from the GM service manual
7. With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
 Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1, 2, 7, and 8 to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
 Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1, 3, 4, and 5 to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
8. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
9. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
 Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3, 4, 5, and 6 to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
 Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 2, 6, 7, and 8 to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
if your not removing the oil pump just rotate so one of the valves on each cylinder is just starting to open and tq the other valve to 22ftlbs.

[JCunningham]

Originally Posted by ZL1 Lingenfelter

Its not a good habit, its nearly a requirement. LS motors do not have adjustable rocker nuts like old SBCs. They run hydraulic lifters that require an exact amount of preload (between 0.003 and 0.006") if I am not mistaken. This is done by using a pushrod that has been tweaked to an exact length for each lifter to give the correct preload on the lifter and the corresponding rocker. Therefore, each pushrod and rocker MUST go back in the same spot for the same lifter as removed. It will work if you dont use the same order, but it is not recommended.

all the parts are the same length. they go back together in the same place because of wear. the preload can be .030-.120. GM is around .100 stock. Most engine builders do .030 - .060 because after market lifters require that much. The stock LS7 LS3 lifter requires around .080.
and this is from 2014