[HSLdriver]

If you have changed your ZL1 1LE track alignment due to inner cording when tracking, what front camber settings have worked for you?

Background: I had four track days (3, 20-minutes sessions each; so 4 hours total) on street alignment. Had the recommended track alignment (i.e., -2.7 camber front, etc.) performed then did one track day with no issues then on the second track day (an open track day) ran for 28 minutes straight (let the tire warm for two laps every session, but this day was hot with 90+ air temps) and the front tires were not just corded on the inside but had significant delamination and mostly on the inside tire (right tire, clockwise track; RF photos below).

I'm thinking of taking out some front camber but have questions:

1) Given what I've described, what might be a good starting camber (maybe the ZL1's -2.0?)?
2) Rear wear is fine at -2.0; if I reduce the front do I need to proportionally reduce the rear to avoid changes in handling?
3) Is it my driving style and if so, what can help (one driver indicated I was probably "overdriving" the tires but couldn't really explain what that meant or what I was doing wrong or what to do differently)? On that last day, the DIC (yes, GM has 15-year-old boys staffing their UI/UX team) was always WARM and never indicated HOT but the Cosworth Toolbox indicates the RF ran 8 laps between 201 and 221 degrees; the LF ran 6 laps between 201 and 217 degrees; any thoughts or suggestions? Did I just run too long on a hot day (noting that if I did 20 vs. 28 minutes that day, the temps only would have touched 200 for one lap)?
4) Other ideas (not looking to set records, just want to get max life from the tires--already letting them warm, switch rt/lt regularly, run slightly higher than recommended hot pressures in the high 30s due to seeing some sidewall rollover, etc., and probably going to 3s vs. 3Rs next to also get more total days, days that are colder, and wetter days at the expense of about 1.5 seconds at my track)?

[suzbndt]

Inner wear is normally toe out related. But my inner wear at a higher rate than the outside edges

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[HSLdriver]

Thanks: I should have specified the entire alignment is per the GM ZL1 1LE track spec and all are within tolerances.

(FYI, I posted under "ZL1" as my understanding is that inner cording is a ZLE quirk due to their 245% stiffer front springs; since they are stiffer, they travel less; since they travel less, the unloaded side keeps negative camber; under high cornering loads the loaded tire is somewhat level and able to achieve its 8 degree slip angle--which is really deformation vs. slipping--while the unloaded tire on the other side is not level due to still having negative camber and just drags the inside edge across the track at an 8 degree angle causing rapid wear on the inside.)

[Beescuz]

Originally Posted by HSLdriver

If you have changed your ZL1 1LE track alignment due to inner cording when tracking, what front camber settings have worked for you?

Background: I had four track days (3, 20-minutes sessions each; so 4 hours total) on street alignment. Had the recommended track alignment (i.e., -2.7 camber front, etc.) performed then did one track day with no issues then on the second track day (an open track day) ran for 28 minutes straight (let the tire warm for two laps every session, but this day was hot with 90+ air temps) and the front tires were not just corded on the inside but had significant delamination and mostly on the inside tire (right tire, clockwise track; RF photos below).

I'm thinking of taking out some front camber but have questions:

1) Given what I've described, what might be a good starting camber (maybe the ZL1's -2.0?)?
2) Rear wear is fine at -2.0; if I reduce the front do I need to proportionally reduce the rear to avoid changes in handling?
3) Is it my driving style and if so, what can help (one driver indicated I was probably "overdriving" the tires but couldn't really explain what that meant or what I was doing wrong or what to do differently)? On that last day, the DIC (yes, GM has 15-year-old boys staffing their UI/UX team) was always WARM and never indicated HOT but the Cosworth Toolbox indicates the RF ran 8 laps between 201 and 221 degrees; the LF ran 6 laps between 201 and 217 degrees; any thoughts or suggestions? Did I just run too long on a hot day (noting that if I did 20 vs. 28 minutes that day, the temps only would have touched 200 for one lap)?
4) Other ideas (not looking to set records, just want to get max life from the tires--already letting them warm, switch rt/lt regularly, run slightly higher than recommended hot pressures in the high 30s due to seeing some sidewall rollover, etc., and probably going to 3s vs. 3Rs next to also get more total days, days that are colder, and wetter days at the expense of about 1.5 seconds at my track)?

Wow that some serious cording for two days on track.

I run a -2.5 all the way around. Last set of fronts I got four days out of them but the outer edge was my issue not inner.

I go out cold at 27PSI and when I come in their around 35PSI Don't know if the tire pressure is causing it.

Also after every track day swap the fronts. The driver side is usually the one that takes the beating.

I run the 3 R's and love them.

[SFV1LE]

This is after about 6 days total right, cording happened after 28 min on day 6? If yes, you were lucky to get that much. These tires will only last ~4 days driven hard.

[s.hammer]

You are actually getting pretty even wear for the 3R, they just don't last long unfortunately.

[CasualGuy]

TL;DR - This is a fact of life running 3Rs on a ZLE.

Like SFV1LE said, it’s actually pretty impressive that you got 6 days out of them. If I’m at an event where I get a lot of seat time, I’ll cord an inside front tire before the end of the second day.

[SFV1LE]

Forgot to add, the fronts last 1/2 as long as the rears in my experience. So depending on proper alignment it can work out that you maximize use with 2 sets of fronts and 1 set of rears--6 new tires total.

I also recommend treating before day 1, and between weekends, with Hot Lap Victory Lane. It re-softens tires for better grip between events, and when used before day 1 it extends overall tire life.

[CamaroSSStlfan]

Be careful regarding the warranty if you want the dealer to change the alignment. Read this new thread!


However yours says 2018 so I'm assuming your warranty is close to expiring or already expired anyway.


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595117

[zain]

4 hours of track time will kill any tire

[RamAir02]

This is my passenger front after 5k street miles and a 3 day HPDE event at WGI. Your wear looks much more even than mine.

[R3ctivision]

I wonder how much of the inner shoulder issue is due to threshold braking with a lot of camber.

[khcoaching]

Originally Posted by HSLdriver

Thanks: I should have specified the entire alignment is per the GM ZL1 1LE track spec and all are within tolerances.

(FYI, I posted under "ZL1" as my understanding is that inner cording is a ZLE quirk due to their 245% stiffer front springs; since they are stiffer, they travel less; since they travel less, the unloaded side keeps negative camber; under high cornering loads the loaded tire is somewhat level and able to achieve its 8 degree slip angle--which is really deformation vs. slipping--while the unloaded tire on the other side is not level due to still having negative camber and just drags the inside edge across the track at an 8 degree angle causing rapid wear on the inside.)

^^^This is a great explanation and I would love to see more info on the loaded geometry with this. it is weird we get some cars with it and some without. (Though pace, driving technique ad the track itself all play roles) There is also a difference with the lower control arm specs that I wonder plays a role? Is anyone running the progressive springs I saw floating around here and has that made a difference?

Ken

[Zl1+911]

I had the same exact inner cording issue with a non 1LE ZL1 - on 3Rs. So this is not a ZLE specific issue for sure…