Updated--Big decision: new cam and gamble, or rebuild engine - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

fldrummer · 02-11-2014, 12:31 PM

After spending a big chunk of change getting my leaky AC evaporator replaced last week, my engine started making chirping noises. 'Turned out to be damaged lifters. We thought it was just one, until pulling the cam and discovering each lobe was scarred pretty good. In the weeks leading up to this, I noticed my oil pressure at idle had dropped to 15psi (was still running Mobile 1 5w-30). I decided to switch to Joe Gibbs LS30. That didn't seem to make a difference. A week later, my AC started blowing hot (evaporator leak) and the chirping lifter noise started a week after that, just before getting the AC fixed. My SS just hit 70K miles when all this happened, BTW...

Now the questions start. Did I just get a bad Comp cam core (mine has 35k on it; 10k since adding the blower) or is it something more internal (cam bearings, etc.)? I can either put it all back together, run new Melling oil pump (my current one might still be good), cam (a real blower cam this time), lifters & lifter trays...and a thicker grade oil and cross my fingers, or wait to have my engine rebuilt and waste more money on my expensive rental car while I wait. I was just about to upgrade my clutch and rear when all this happened, so that will have to wait (again) if I do the latter. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

fldrummer · 02-11-2014, 12:33 PM

Here are some pics...

SSBUSDRVR · 02-11-2014, 12:43 PM

Sorry to see imho if you can swing it rebuild.

10aSSee D · 02-11-2014, 12:53 PM

I had the same thing happen to me a few months ago with my comp cam. Luckily I was already planning a rebuild with ADM and he seen the cam when he pulled it out. I now have a 417 with a new comp cam and I hope this cam was treated right. I would go ahead and rebuild with forged internals. Sorry to hear this and hopefully they have fixed the problem with their cams.

spd2612 · 02-11-2014, 01:05 PM

It looks a though your top end was starving for oil Which means you probably have more damage. how long has your oil pressure been at 15 psi at idle ?

JANNETTYRACING · 02-11-2014, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fldrummer

After spending a big chunk of change getting my leaky AC evaporator replaced last week, my engine started making chirping noises. 'Turned out to be damaged lifters. We thought it was just one, until pulling the cam and discovering each lobe was scarred pretty good. In the weeks leading up to this, I noticed my oil pressure at idle had dropped to 15psi (was still running Mobile 1 5w-30). I decided to switch to Joe Gibbs LS30. That didn't seem to make a difference. A week later, my AC started blowing hot (evaporator leak) and the chirping lifter noise started a week after that, just before getting the AC fixed. My SS just hit 70K miles when all this happened, BTW...

Now the questions start. Did I just get a bad Comp cam core (mine has 35k on it; 10k since adding the blower) or is it something more internal (cam bearings, etc.)? I can either put it all back together, run new Melling oil pump (my current one might still be good), cam (a real blower cam this time), lifters & lifter trays...and a thicker grade oil and cross my fingers, or wait to have my engine rebuilt and waste more money on my expensive rental car while I wait. I was just about to upgrade my clutch and rear when all this happened, so that will have to wait (again) if I do the latter. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

Pull the Pan and Oil pump and inspect, if the pump is all scared then pull a couple bearings and have a look.

Inspect Piston skirts for embedded metal chips.

If everything looks good You don't have much to lose.

There is only a slight chance everything stayed in the bottom of the pan but that really depends on how hard you drove it.

2 areas of concern when we see this is Valve Springs and Lubrication.

Worn Springs allow Lifter bounce, when the lifter starts to bounce on the lobe it will self destruct.

Just our Way, We always switch to 10/30 Mobil 1 when doing Cam Swaps.

Hope this Helps.

UNRIVALED SS · 02-11-2014, 01:45 PM

I would say Jannetty just gave you the absolute best advice that can be had. As for my opinion , you're probably not going to luck out on this one .

CamaroV6 · 02-11-2014, 02:08 PM

Drummer I would rebuild with bulletproof internals man...even now that you have a Maggie and your gonna get a specific blower cam your gonna want that voice in the back of your head saying ...Don't worry its ok you have built internals its ok to have a lead foot

Mean Green Z28 · 02-11-2014, 02:57 PM

why does it look to me as if the lifter/roller locked up first and then ate the cam?

revived · 02-11-2014, 03:18 PM

Shit, tear her down and see what else is wrong... bound to be something.

I wouldn't go chasing parts until I knew full extent of the damage.

prdi · 02-11-2014, 03:32 PM

like jannety said.. pull oil pump and pan.. If you have any doubt in ur head go ahead and build it.. a nice LME 416 wih trickflow 255s sound good right

Edwin320 · 02-11-2014, 03:55 PM

I agree with the consensus here. I'm afraid some of that metal made its way to the bearings. It would also be hard to get rid of the shavings piecemeal. If you can swing it, pull the motor and rebuild it. And get blower appropriate pistons while you're at it. Good luck.

fldrummer · 02-11-2014, 04:00 PM

I'm going to the shop for a closer look soon. I've been told the pistons still look pristine, as do the valve springs (they were changed 10k miles ago during the Supercharger install). They were about to check the oil pan and pump as I was typing the original post, but I'm already leaning towards a rebuild. Oi.

Motion427 · 02-11-2014, 04:01 PM

It would be best to tear it appart.refresh the bearings,pump,cam,lifters,check the springs and the rest of the valve train.
If your in a budget,use the same rotating assembly,but upgrade the pistons to forged.
At first,nobody made a forged piston to be used with the stock rods,but BTR racing has them available now.

02-11-2014, 12:31 PM	#1
fldrummer "Black Ace" Drives: Supercharged 2010 SS, 2016 Golf R Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 1,352	Updated--Big decision: new cam and gamble, or rebuild engine After spending a big chunk of change getting my leaky AC evaporator replaced last week, my engine started making chirping noises. 'Turned out to be damaged lifters. We thought it was just one, until pulling the cam and discovering each lobe was scarred pretty good. In the weeks leading up to this, I noticed my oil pressure at idle had dropped to 15psi (was still running Mobile 1 5w-30). I decided to switch to Joe Gibbs LS30. That didn't seem to make a difference. A week later, my AC started blowing hot (evaporator leak) and the chirping lifter noise started a week after that, just before getting the AC fixed. My SS just hit 70K miles when all this happened, BTW... Now the questions start. Did I just get a bad Comp cam core (mine has 35k on it; 10k since adding the blower) or is it something more internal (cam bearings, etc.)? I can either put it all back together, run new Melling oil pump (my current one might still be good), cam (a real blower cam this time), lifters & lifter trays...and a thicker grade oil and cross my fingers, or wait to have my engine rebuilt and waste more money on my expensive rental car while I wait. I was just about to upgrade my clutch and rear when all this happened, so that will have to wait (again) if I do the latter. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS M6 "Black Ace" - Delivered 6/4/2009 Mods: Forged 416 LS3, Maggie TVS 2300 SC (~11 psi), custom cam (232/247, .630/.630, 118 LSA), 90-lb. injectors, ZL1 fuel pump & ADM controller, Alky Control meth kit, Monster LT1-SC twin-disk clutch, ZL1 drivetrain conversion w/ DSS 1000-HP axles & 1-pc. driveshaft, CAI Inc. intake w/ ADM scoop, XS Power full exhaust (1 7/8" LT headers with 3" off-road pipes), VMAX CNC-ported TB, LSR adjustable sway bars, LPE rear end-links, BMR 1" drop, BMR polyurethane bushings; UMI trailing arms & toe rods. Built & tuned by Kraftworks. 755 rwhp/708 rwtq Last edited by fldrummer; 04-22-2014 at 10:01 PM.

02-11-2014, 12:33 PM	#2
fldrummer "Black Ace" Drives: Supercharged 2010 SS, 2016 Golf R Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 1,352	Here are some pics... Attached Images __________________ 2010 2SS/RS M6 "Black Ace" - Delivered 6/4/2009 Mods: Forged 416 LS3, Maggie TVS 2300 SC (~11 psi), custom cam (232/247, .630/.630, 118 LSA), 90-lb. injectors, ZL1 fuel pump & ADM controller, Alky Control meth kit, Monster LT1-SC twin-disk clutch, ZL1 drivetrain conversion w/ DSS 1000-HP axles & 1-pc. driveshaft, CAI Inc. intake w/ ADM scoop, XS Power full exhaust (1 7/8" LT headers with 3" off-road pipes), VMAX CNC-ported TB, LSR adjustable sway bars, LPE rear end-links, BMR 1" drop, BMR polyurethane bushings; UMI trailing arms & toe rods. Built & tuned by Kraftworks. 755 rwhp/708 rwtq

02-11-2014, 12:43 PM	#3
SSBUSDRVR Drives: '11 2SS/RS IBM/BLK M6 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Central FL Posts: 3,748 View My Garage	Sorry to see imho if you can swing it rebuild. __________________ '11 IBM 2SS/RS Built and Tuned by Vengeance Racing Vengeance PCM Vengeance Racing Mast Black Label LS7 Headed 416 ProCharger Stage II D1X Race ,Monster Triple,Alky Control Meth Inj, Forgestar F14 Drag Version and a bunch of other blah blah blah.838/688 at 12lbs Street Friendly

02-11-2014, 12:53 PM	#4
10aSSee D Drives: Silver 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: TN Posts: 2,562	I had the same thing happen to me a few months ago with my comp cam. Luckily I was already planning a rebuild with ADM and he seen the cam when he pulled it out. I now have a 417 with a new comp cam and I hope this cam was treated right. I would go ahead and rebuild with forged internals. Sorry to hear this and hopefully they have fixed the problem with their cams. __________________ MODS: ADM built 417, 2.9L Whipple with 3.250 pulley, ADM ported and polished LSA heads,ADM stage3 cam,ADM LSA belt drive system,ADM CAI race scoop, ADM dual fuel pumps, ID 850's, BMR full suspension, Gforce 9 inch kit with 3.5 inch driveshaft, Street Slayer twin carbon clutch, Lingenfelter oil seperator. Tuned by built by ADM Performance, 763rwhp,705rwtq

02-11-2014, 03:18 PM	#10
revived Vrrrm. Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: MA Posts: 1,495	Shit, tear her down and see what else is wrong... bound to be something. I wouldn't go chasing parts until I knew full extent of the damage. __________________

02-11-2014, 01:05 PM	#5
spd2612 Account Suspended Drives: Black SS2/RS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: FT. Myers FL. Posts: 636 View My Garage	It looks a though your top end was starving for oil Which means you probably have more damage. how long has your oil pressure been at 15 psi at idle ?

02-11-2014, 01:45 PM	#7
UNRIVALED SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: El Paso Posts: 704 View My Garage	I would say Jannetty just gave you the absolute best advice that can be had. As for my opinion , you're probably not going to luck out on this one .

02-11-2014, 02:08 PM	#8
CamaroV6 Account Suspended Drives: Camaro V6 1LT Manual Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Miami FL Posts: 514	Drummer I would rebuild with bulletproof internals man...even now that you have a Maggie and your gonna get a specific blower cam your gonna want that voice in the back of your head saying ...Don't worry its ok you have built internals its ok to have a lead foot

02-11-2014, 02:57 PM	#9
Mean Green Z28 Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 941 View My Garage	why does it look to me as if the lifter/roller locked up first and then ate the cam?

02-11-2014, 03:32 PM	#11
prdi Drives: CTS-V Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Online Posts: 53	like jannety said.. pull oil pump and pan.. If you have any doubt in ur head go ahead and build it.. a nice LME 416 wih trickflow 255s sound good right

02-11-2014, 03:55 PM	#12
Edwin320 Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 Convertible A10 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Miami, Fl Posts: 427 View My Garage	I agree with the consensus here. I'm afraid some of that metal made its way to the bearings. It would also be hard to get rid of the shavings piecemeal. If you can swing it, pull the motor and rebuild it. And get blower appropriate pistons while you're at it. Good luck. __________________ Ed 2018 ZL1 A10 'Vert

02-11-2014, 04:00 PM	#13
fldrummer "Black Ace" Drives: Supercharged 2010 SS, 2016 Golf R Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 1,352	I'm going to the shop for a closer look soon. I've been told the pistons still look pristine, as do the valve springs (they were changed 10k miles ago during the Supercharger install). They were about to check the oil pan and pump as I was typing the original post, but I'm already leaning towards a rebuild. Oi. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS M6 "Black Ace" - Delivered 6/4/2009 Mods: Forged 416 LS3, Maggie TVS 2300 SC (~11 psi), custom cam (232/247, .630/.630, 118 LSA), 90-lb. injectors, ZL1 fuel pump & ADM controller, Alky Control meth kit, Monster LT1-SC twin-disk clutch, ZL1 drivetrain conversion w/ DSS 1000-HP axles & 1-pc. driveshaft, CAI Inc. intake w/ ADM scoop, XS Power full exhaust (1 7/8" LT headers with 3" off-road pipes), VMAX CNC-ported TB, LSR adjustable sway bars, LPE rear end-links, BMR 1" drop, BMR polyurethane bushings; UMI trailing arms & toe rods. Built & tuned by Kraftworks. 755 rwhp/708 rwtq

02-11-2014, 04:01 PM	#14
Motion427 Account Suspended Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Red Jewel L99 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: NB,Canada Posts: 834	It would be best to tear it appart.refresh the bearings,pump,cam,lifters,check the springs and the rest of the valve train. If your in a budget,use the same rotating assembly,but upgrade the pistons to forged. At first,nobody made a forged piston to be used with the stock rods,but BTR racing has them available now.