Found a box of stuff on the porch today!

[mikeSS]

ok so what does your car compare to now on a track.

[GretchenGotGrowl]

Originally Posted by Beauwulf

I don't think so. I pulled off right after the shudder got bad in turn 10 (exit to the pits is right after that) and was parked in the first garage at the exit. As soon as I got out of the car, I used my pyrometer on the rotors and the fronts were 250F with the rears at 275. I checked a couple other cars in my garage after they came back from their sessions and most read 575-625F. My temp strip on the calipers didn't even register the first range (250F)!

Glad you got to run and it sounds like you are almost there. If I had to guess, I think you are right about the metal transfer. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

[Erik@Torq]

Glad you got the car on track finally! Have any chance to look at laptimes?

Remind me, what pads and rotors are you running again? EBC on both?

/Erik

[Beauwulf]

Originally Posted by mikeSS

ok so what does your car compare to now on a track.

Hard to tell yet. I only got up to about 70% before the brakes crapped out!

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

Glad you got to run and it sounds like you are almost there. If I had to guess, I think you are right about the metal transfer. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

Yea, I'll get it figured out in the next few days.

[QUOTE=Erik@Torq;2900250]Glad you got the car on track finally! Have any chance to look at laptimes?

I never got a clean lap in. With the brake problem, I barely got the tires warmed up. Just an educated guess, I'd say 1:56-57s if everything was working right.... maybe a bit better without the instructor in the car.

Remind me, what pads and rotors are you running again? EBC on both?

EBC Blue NDX on the front only... OEs on the rear. Rotors are fleabay from this guy...

http://tinyurl.com/5ubum3f

[Erik@Torq]

Sweet! As I am sure you are well aware of, proper bedding process is extremely important for maximum braking performance so that could be an issue. Since your temps were so low there could actually be to much brake cooling for those pads, and they are simply not reaching their operation temperature. It's not common, but it happens and I have no experience with that specific compound (have run green, yellow and red before) so I can't really give a better answer.

Let me know if you need any assistance with anything buddy

/Erik

[Beauwulf]

Originally Posted by Erik@Torq

Sweet! As I am sure you are well aware of, proper bedding process is extremely important for maximum braking performance so that could be an issue. Since your temps were so low there could actually be to much brake cooling for those pads, and they are simply not reaching their operation temperature. It's not common, but it happens and I have no experience with that specific compound (have run green, yellow and red before) so I can't really give a better answer.

Let me know if you need any assistance with anything buddy

/Erik

Thanks M8! I did the procedure included with the pads. These pads are supposed to be street/race pads. I had them in for about 2 weeks and they performed just a hair below the OEs on the street. Up to the point they started to shudder, they had good initial bite, easy to modulate and pretty strong. The only fault I could tell, other than the big problem, was that the release was a tad slow.

After I returned to the pits and took the temps, I jacked the car and spun each wheel. They both rotated smoothly with no extra drag or "tight" spots. Rotors look smooth and slightly blued. On the way home and while driving today, no issues at all.

I did another "close visual" inspection of the rotors and no cracks or inconsistent surface observed.

I think I'll call the EBC US rep tomorrow and see what he says....

[Lycanine]

Sorry to hear about the brakes! I was excited to see what your car could do You said you'd be posting a video soon right?

[Beauwulf]

OK, here's some video for you guys... Remember, this is a novice group so, the instructor had us hold it to 60% max for the first session. First lap is just to warm the tires up. It was just starting to get fun too!

[Lycanine]

Just watched the videos...that was awesome when you ran up on the porsche Great driving, can't wait to see a 100% video!

[Beauwulf]

Thanks man! Me too!

[stand-al0ne]

very cool pics! I love following this thread!

Pads not agreeing with the rotors sounds like the issue. I doubt a street/track pad would not be able to get up to operating temps , but then again I never heard of the blues before and I have only ever used the greens...

I now have to wait until I get home to watch the vids bc I can't pull them up at the office :/

[mikey45]

Beauwulf, where did you find a flange to connect the hose to the calipers? the First pic of the thread looks like they are all the intake side and made of plastic and the pic of your completed rotor/dust plate looks to be metal.

I recently ran a hpde in houston tx and man did my rotors heat up. After about 8 sessions over the course of 2 days my brakes were fried (as well as my tires). I saw a thread by John M and how he ran his ducts. They are both DIY's and I wanted to see which would be easier.

Bad Ace set up BTW.

[Beauwulf]

Originally Posted by mikey45

Beauwulf, where did you find a flange to connect the hose to the calipers? the First pic of the thread looks like they are all the intake side and made of plastic and the pic of your completed rotor/dust plate looks to be metal.

I recently ran a hpde in houston tx and man did my rotors heat up. After about 8 sessions over the course of 2 days my brakes were fried (as well as my tires). I saw a thread by John M and how he ran his ducts. They are both DIY's and I wanted to see which would be easier.

Bad Ace set up BTW.

My friend with the Evo gave them to me. I'll see if he remembers were to get them from. They are aluminum.

[Beauwulf]

I had a chance to give the brakes a good inspection and refreshed the pads and rotors to re-bed them. I checked the runout on the rotors and found that to be good at .002".

When I resurfaced the pads, I think I found the problem with the shudder at Homestead. There was an area of packed residue right in the center of the each pad. It looked exactly like sandpaper looks when it gets "loaded up"! I believe it was from the dust of the OE pads that was still on the discs when I installed the EBC pads.

The "Blue NDXs" come with a special process to help speed up the bedding process. They are "scorched" in an oven at the factory and your supposed to be able to bed them in at the track with just a few laps going progressively harder with your braking. The process leaves the surface very porous and it looked like that allowed the surface to "pick up" some of the leftover dust from the OE pads. There was an area right in the center of each pad that was anywhere from dime size up to quarter size on the LH outer pad!

I sanded the pads and did a though cleaning of the rotors before assembling the brakes and went out and re-bedded the pads. They feel fine ATM but I need to get out of town on my favorite back road and work some heat into the rotors to really check them out.

I'll update once more when I get a chance to test them again.