Should i attempt this install myself? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

stratman2SSRS · 12-12-2014, 07:45 PM

I'm no mechanic and did all those parts myself with jackstands. I had my wife help me guide the rear subframe back in with me.
The instructions are straight forward and easy to do.
Cradle bushings are the red pieces.

mhog · 12-12-2014, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nighthawk89

Do you guys have a write up for the cradle bushings? Link?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...+bushing+torch

See post #8
I did this method and it was easy.

tanur420 · 12-12-2014, 08:08 PM

Torch, jack and I think.I used a large socket to get subframe bushings out. Getting the hats off them are a pita though

Nighthawk89 · 12-12-2014, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

I'm no mechanic and did all those parts myself with jackstands. I had my wife help me guide the rear subframe back in with me.
The instructions are straight forward and easy to do.
Cradle bushings are the red pieces.

Awesome photo man. Im feeling more confident after hearing your guys feedback thats forsure. I appreciate it

Nighthawk89 · 12-12-2014, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhog

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...+bushing+torch

See post #8
I did this method and it was easy.

That guy built some cool tools to get thoes bushings out thats forsure!

krusher · 12-12-2014, 09:43 PM

So i did it with a recipcricating saw. Took about 20 min ea bushing. I took the saw with a long narrow blade and cut the rubber around the metal insert. Then after its loose hammer it through. Then i took the saw and cut horizontally as close to the frame as possible. Then took a screw driver and hammered it between the frame and the bushing and every 1/4 in i would pry until i cracked enough of the bushing away to get to the bottom lip. When it gets there keep hammering until it slides out. I never had to heat the bushing

RKCamaro13 · 12-12-2014, 11:54 PM

I did my subframe bushings and few other things but I had a lift, which made it nice. But it can still be done without one. A trick a learned for the bushings is to get a drill and drill about 6-8 holes in the bushings and then use the sawzall to connect the holes and hit the middle of the busing out. Then cut the wall of bushing and use a screwdriver to pry it out. Only used the sawzall for the first bushing and it took about 20 minutes, and then used this method for the other three and took 15 minutes for all of them. Hope it helps, and good luck.

Nighthawk89 · 12-13-2014, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKCamaro13

I did my subframe bushings and few other things but I had a lift, which made it nice. But it can still be done without one. A trick a learned for the bushings is to get a drill and drill about 6-8 holes in the bushings and then use the sawzall to connect the holes and hit the middle of the busing out. Then cut the wall of bushing and use a screwdriver to pry it out. Only used the sawzall for the first bushing and it took about 20 minutes, and then used this method for the other three and took 15 minutes for all of them. Hope it helps, and good luck.

I appreciate it. All of these write-ups help a lot to relieve some concerns of doing it on my own and if i do attempt to it will be good reference. Thanks again man for the write up!

Hope this thread helps others with the common concerns and questions.

NotYetLegend · 12-13-2014, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nighthawk89

Was not familiar with the price of the tool. Which is why i was asking.

What would you recommend i have done when i have the shop install the solid subframes? Or is that pretty much its own job in itself and the rest i can do myself?

Well sounds like you may be doing it all yourself (which I fully support) but if you do have the cradel bushing done at a shop also have them do the rear upper control arm bushings since access is so much easier w the cradle out. Everything else can definitely be completed on your own.

Nighthawk89 · 12-30-2014, 10:22 PM

What kind of lifts am i going to need to get this done in my garage? Ive got one floor jack i was thinking about getting 2 more and then returning as well as some jack stands to keep in the garage. Im guessing one floor jack to lift the engine up a bit for the sway bars and then another two for either side and some floor jacks for added support?

Nighthawk89 · 12-31-2014, 12:43 AM

Also, is it recommended that i follow pfadts install instructions from my solid subframes?

This doesn't look to difficult. Im assuming ill need to just package the install together when i get the rear out from under my car. But which items would it be best for me to start installing once i have it out?

NotYetLegend · 12-31-2014, 09:29 AM

I have done a lot of what you are attempting with simply 4 jack stands and one floor jack. I believe the rear subframe can be dropped onto the floor jack as well and slid out from under the car. I did have to raise the engine a hair as you said to get the front sway bar threaded through there, no big deal really. But yeah, 4 jack stands, highest setting, one at each of the 4 jack points of the car should get you pretty much there.

NotYetLegend · 12-31-2014, 09:32 AM

As far as the order of operations I would definitely do the rear upper control arm bushings while the cradle is separated from your car. You could probably do the rear sway bar easily at this time as well. Everything else (since it's on the bottom of the subframe assembly) is probably easier while the cradle is firmly mounted to the car. The toe links and trailing arms are all easily accessible with the car on jackstands, no worries there.

Nighthawk89 · 12-31-2014, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NotYetLegend

As far as the order of operations I would definitely do the rear upper control arm bushings while the cradle is separated from your car. You could probably do the rear sway bar easily at this time as well. Everything else (since it's on the bottom of the subframe assembly) is probably easier while the cradle is firmly mounted to the car. The toe links and trailing arms are all easily accessible with the car on jackstands, no worries there.

Awesome response! This is just pumping me up more for when the rest of the parts arrive! Lol. Im thinking about purchasing a torque wrench that has the ability to pivot into a location better then my current fixed wrench as well. I noticed in a few DYI pictures that someone had one. And im kind of thinking the method of drilling the subframe bushings every inch in a circular fashion and connecting the dots with the sawzall would be a smart method to removing the subframe bushings..?

12-12-2014, 07:45 PM	#15
stratman2SSRS Drives: Lingenfelter Camaro Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario Posts: 2,160 View My Garage	I'm no mechanic and did all those parts myself with jackstands. I had my wife help me guide the rear subframe back in with me. The instructions are straight forward and easy to do. Cradle bushings are the red pieces. Attached Images __________________

12-12-2014, 08:08 PM	#17
tanur420 Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 348	Torch, jack and I think.I used a large socket to get subframe bushings out. Getting the hats off them are a pita though __________________

12-12-2014, 11:54 PM	#21
RKCamaro13 Drives: 2011 Red 2SSRS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Louisiana Posts: 693	I did my subframe bushings and few other things but I had a lift, which made it nice. But it can still be done without one. A trick a learned for the bushings is to get a drill and drill about 6-8 holes in the bushings and then use the sawzall to connect the holes and hit the middle of the busing out. Then cut the wall of bushing and use a screwdriver to pry it out. Only used the sawzall for the first bushing and it took about 20 minutes, and then used this method for the other three and took 15 minutes for all of them. Hope it helps, and good luck. __________________ MPD1 Z Force hood, 1LE splitter, ZL1 rockers and diffuser, Heritage grille, Sparks Restorations emblems, Magnuson Supercharger, ID850 Injectors, Alky Methanol Kit, Livernois Fuel Pump Roto-Fab CAI, SW long tube headers, CNC ported throttle body, High flow cats, Lethal Racing Prowler Cam, LS3 conversion, Yank 3400 Stall, Corsa 3" cat back exhaust, RX Catch Can, BMR Suspension, BC Coilovers, Slotted and Cross-drilled rotors, Custom Interior.

12-31-2014, 09:29 AM	#26
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	I have done a lot of what you are attempting with simply 4 jack stands and one floor jack. I believe the rear subframe can be dropped onto the floor jack as well and slid out from under the car. I did have to raise the engine a hair as you said to get the front sway bar threaded through there, no big deal really. But yeah, 4 jack stands, highest setting, one at each of the 4 jack points of the car should get you pretty much there. __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

12-31-2014, 09:32 AM	#27
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	As far as the order of operations I would definitely do the rear upper control arm bushings while the cradle is separated from your car. You could probably do the rear sway bar easily at this time as well. Everything else (since it's on the bottom of the subframe assembly) is probably easier while the cradle is firmly mounted to the car. The toe links and trailing arms are all easily accessible with the car on jackstands, no worries there. __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

12-12-2014, 09:43 PM	#20
krusher Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS CGM Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Oskaloosa, IA Posts: 627	So i did it with a recipcricating saw. Took about 20 min ea bushing. I took the saw with a long narrow blade and cut the rubber around the metal insert. Then after its loose hammer it through. Then i took the saw and cut horizontally as close to the frame as possible. Then took a screw driver and hammered it between the frame and the bushing and every 1/4 in i would pry until i cracked enough of the bushing away to get to the bottom lip. When it gets there keep hammering until it slides out. I never had to heat the bushing

12-30-2014, 10:22 PM	#24
Nighthawk89 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2Ss M6 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Southern California Posts: 4,013	What kind of lifts am i going to need to get this done in my garage? Ive got one floor jack i was thinking about getting 2 more and then returning as well as some jack stands to keep in the garage. Im guessing one floor jack to lift the engine up a bit for the sway bars and then another two for either side and some floor jacks for added support?

12-31-2014, 12:43 AM	#25
Nighthawk89 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2Ss M6 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Southern California Posts: 4,013	Also, is it recommended that i follow pfadts install instructions from my solid subframes? This doesn't look to difficult. Im assuming ill need to just package the install together when i get the rear out from under my car. But which items would it be best for me to start installing once i have it out?