Update on new fob programming

[DonM]

I took the car to a dealer recommended by my Camaro club and it took them over 2 hours to program the new fob. Turns out that if you ONLY have a new fob, not a new fob/new key, then you have to block the signal from the "old" key while programming the new fob, so the car 'sees' and recognizes the new fob. Otherwise all you end up doing is activating the security system and your car won't start.

Turns out the dealer learned something new too, they had never had an issue like that before. Even so, with as long as it took, they only charged me $50 to program it, where the other dealership wanted $75+ depending on how long it took.

[AlanRubin]

Depends on the year.

ADD A KEY:

1. Insert your working key into the ignition and turn it to the “ON” position (don’t start the car)
2. Wait for the security light on the tachometer to turn off.
3. Remove your key.
4. Insert the NEW key (the one that hasn’t been programmed yet) into the ignition and turn it to the “ON” position.
5. The number of keys programmed should now be displayed on the Driver Information Center and your new KEY will be ready to use.

You can only have five working keys/remotes programmed to the car at any given time. Mine said 7 when the fob was programmed. Then, I did another spare key after the FOB, and it said 8. I tried to do another one, and it would not accept a 9th programmed key. So, I have three devices; two keys, and one remote. You would have to use the RESET method to start over with "0" keys from the start to have the 4th or 5th working key.


START OVER; ALL NEW KEYS, NEW ECU, OR RESET METHOD:

If you lost your keys, and get new ones, this is the method you use. This is what you would also need to do with your existing keys if you get a replacement ECU.

This initial reset method can take up to 30 minutes, so be sure you have a good battery in the car, or hook it up to a battery charger.

1. Insert your new key into the ignition.
2. Turn the key to the “ON” position (don’t start the car)
3. Wait 10 minutes for the security light on the tachometer to turn off.
4. Turn the key to the “OFF” position.
   Repeat steps 2 through 4 until the security light remains ON during step 3. — Usually after the 3rd time.
5. Once the security light no longer turns off after waiting 10+ minutes, turn the key to the “OFF” position.
6. Turn the key the "ON" position (don't start the car).
7. If the process was successful, the number of keys programmed (=1) should be displayed on the Driver Information Center and your new KEY will be ready to use.

Works every time for me.

[DonM]

Originally Posted by AlanRubin

Depends on the year.

ADD A KEY:

1. Insert your working key into the ignition and turn it to the “ON” position (don’t start the car)
2. Wait for the security light on the tachometer to turn off.
3. Remove your key.
4. Insert the NEW key (the one that hasn’t been programmed yet) into the ignition and turn it to the “ON” position.
5. The number of keys programmed should now be displayed on the Driver Information Center and your new KEY will be ready to use.

You can only have five working keys/remotes programmed to the car at any given time. Mine said 7 when the fob was programmed. Then, I did another spare key after the FOB, and it said 8. I tried to do another one, and it would not accept a 9th programmed key. So, I have three devices; two keys, and one remote. You would have to use the RESET method to start over with "0" keys from the start to have the 4th or 5th working key.


START OVER; ALL NEW KEYS, NEW ECU, OR RESET METHOD:

If you lost your keys, and get new ones, this is the method you use. This is what you would also need to do with your existing keys if you get a replacement ECU.

This initial reset method can take up to 30 minutes, so be sure you have a good battery in the car, or hook it up to a battery charger.

1. Insert your new key into the ignition.
2. Turn the key to the “ON” position (don’t start the car)
3. Wait 10 minutes for the security light on the tachometer to turn off.
4. Turn the key to the “OFF” position.
   Repeat steps 2 through 4 until the security light remains ON during step 3. — Usually after the 3rd time.
5. Once the security light no longer turns off after waiting 10+ minutes, turn the key to the “OFF” position.
6. Turn the key the "ON" position (don't start the car).
7. If the process was successful, the number of keys programmed (=1) should be displayed on the Driver Information Center and your new KEY will be ready to use.

Works every time for me.

I tried those methods and it wouldn't work for me, all I ended up doing was activating the anti-theft system (temporarily thank goodness). I think it didn't work for me because I wasn't adding a new KEY, just a remote.

[AlanRubin]

I added just a remote. GM gave me a FAT headed key, that I hold against the remote
to program it to the car like a key.



So, I put the key in the ignition, like that, and turn it, and 3 Keys Programmed
popped up on the DIC.

Do you have push button start, where the key stays in your pocket? Those are
different, I guess.

[DonM]

Originally Posted by AlanRubin

I added just a remote. GM gave me a FAT headed key, that I hold against the remote
to program it to the car like a key.



So, I put the key in the ignition, like that, and turn it, and 3 Keys Programmed
popped up on the DIC.

Do you have push button start, where the key stays in your pocket? Those are
different, I guess.

No push button start, just bad luck I guess.

[AlanRubin]

That has nothing to do with push-button start.

[Supreme23]

Originally Posted by DonM

I took the car to a dealer recommended by my Camaro club and it took them over 2 hours to program the new fob. Turns out that if you ONLY have a new fob, not a new fob/new key, then you have to block the signal from the "old" key while programming the new fob, so the car 'sees' and recognizes the new fob. Otherwise all you end up doing is activating the security system and your car won't start.

Turns out the dealer learned something new too, they had never had an issue like that before. Even so, with as long as it took, they only charged me $50 to program it, where the other dealership wanted $75+ depending on how long it took.

honestly that makes sense to me a bit. what with all this new age technologies. blocking the signal means its getting nothing, or "zero" information. then they would switch the information to the new fob, which is now the only signal being recognized. the old fob will be out and the new one will replace it.


makes sense - but annoying they dont really explain these things well.