Those who have done a HARD break in - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Jeanius · 08-19-2009, 03:46 AM

How did you do it? I am considering MotoMan's procedure, but Im a little confused as to exactly when to change the oil for non-synthetic, before or after you do the steps, Id like to know if anyone did things his way or a little different. Thanks

mydreamcar · 08-19-2009, 08:03 AM

Yeah I want to make sure as well picking up my car next week in OH, 500 mile ride, and want to make sure I do it right. From what I have read, keep the speeds varied as well as the gears. keep the speed under 100mph and rpms under 4500.

ALLT4 · 08-20-2009, 07:03 PM

Pffft, picked it up, got on highway and wound it out pretty good. Then varied speeds, 3/4 throttle accelerations, didn't really drive any differently than any other car I own. Hammer down, changed the oil at 500, re-set the life, and now am going to wait until like 1500, then regular oil changes when it tells me to.

I drove mine hard right off the lot and it seemed to get better and better. Now it seems to have settled in at 1000 miles, doesn't really feel any different with successive drives anymore.

Honestly I don't know if there is a right way or wrong way anymore unless you baby it toooo much.

To each his own though.

EAkrish · 08-22-2009, 04:32 AM

I beat the he$$ out of mine from mile 7. I am going in for an oil change at 1k. I am at 730 currently.

slacker · 08-22-2009, 08:25 AM

I'm using the DILYSI break in method, but I'm not running it to the ragged edge. I've read all the threads on proper break in, but honestly, I know some engineers and they create more problems for themselves by being so damn anal about everything. Don't beat it to death, but "Drive It Like You Stole It" has always worked for me- my first Grand National went 157k miles and never used a drop of oil.

My work truck- 05 Colorado - 193,000 miles, runs like a top, doesn't use any oil, works hard every day- the key is change the oil every 3500 miles. To open another box, I've never change transmission fluid or filter either on any car I've owned, and I've never had a transmission problem- examples 87 GN 157k, 86 GN 175k, 98 S10 253k, 05 Colorado 193k and counting....and all 4 of these were run hard.

Banshee · 08-22-2009, 10:30 AM

I responded awhile back about this.. in essence, uncle GM engineer, dyno lab..always told me with my LSX engines to "drive hard". I did that with both Trans Am's upon delivery and never had a problem with either..NEVER!

Did the same thing with the Camaro.

skisax80 · 08-23-2009, 09:29 PM

define drive hard if you would please...

ALLT4 · 08-23-2009, 11:48 PM

Basically disregard the owners manual. Lots of medium to 3/4 throttle accelerations to 5000 or 5500 RPM each shift until you attain the speed limit or whatever you're comfortable with. Personally I didn't want to get tooo close to redline until I felt it was fully broken in. You know, pretend you're half assed racing someone. But not to the full extreme redline. Do it a lot then some town driving normally mixed in. I'd get the oil changed quickly if you proceed like that, things will wear in a lot faster especially the rings and they will make particles in the oil. I changed mine at 500 miles and will do it again at 1500 but follow the life meter after that.

Best I can explain it.

Banshee · 08-24-2009, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skisax80

define drive hard if you would please...

Read the following site

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Further explained in MANY threads in this break in section..just look at posts in last month or two.

08-19-2009, 03:46 AM	#1
Jeanius Drives: Blk/Blk 2018 Sierra SLT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Golden State Posts: 2,925	Those who have done a HARD break in How did you do it? I am considering MotoMan's procedure, but Im a little confused as to exactly when to change the oil for non-synthetic, before or after you do the steps, Id like to know if anyone did things his way or a little different. Thanks __________________ SOLD: 2SS LS3 M6 - MGW - Dynatech LT's HF Cats - Magnaflow Street CB - ADM Race CAI - Pedders Xa Coilovers - Pfadt Sways TRADED: 2016 2SS M6

08-22-2009, 04:32 AM	#4
EAkrish Scout Sniping Drives: 2010 Ford F150 Lariat SuperCrew Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 762	I beat the he$$ out of mine from mile 7. I am going in for an oil change at 1k. I am at 730 currently. __________________ Eric Previous Car:1SS/CGM 6MT w/ Sunroof & FACTORY BLUETOOTH!!!: New Era OTR, Steeda Short Shifter, Ported TB, Stg 2 ported intake manifold, Fasterproms, Poor man down pipes, MBRP 3" Exhaust!!! Now I drive a F150 Supercrew

08-22-2009, 08:25 AM	#5
slacker Troubled 40 something Drives: 2010 IOM RS/SS M6 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 335	I'm using the DILYSI break in method, but I'm not running it to the ragged edge. I've read all the threads on proper break in, but honestly, I know some engineers and they create more problems for themselves by being so damn anal about everything. Don't beat it to death, but "Drive It Like You Stole It" has always worked for me- my first Grand National went 157k miles and never used a drop of oil. My work truck- 05 Colorado - 193,000 miles, runs like a top, doesn't use any oil, works hard every day- the key is change the oil every 3500 miles. To open another box, I've never change transmission fluid or filter either on any car I've owned, and I've never had a transmission problem- examples 87 GN 157k, 86 GN 175k, 98 S10 253k, 05 Colorado 193k and counting....and all 4 of these were run hard. __________________

08-22-2009, 10:30 AM	#6
Banshee Institutionally Insane Drives: 2013 IOM 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit MI Posts: 2,115 View My Garage	I responded awhile back about this.. in essence, uncle GM engineer, dyno lab..always told me with my LSX engines to "drive hard". I did that with both Trans Am's upon delivery and never had a problem with either..NEVER! Did the same thing with the Camaro. __________________ It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?

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08-19-2009, 08:03 AM	#2
mydreamcar My Dream Car Drives: 2011 SIM LS3 1SS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: staten island Posts: 1,534	Yeah I want to make sure as well picking up my car next week in OH, 500 mile ride, and want to make sure I do it right. From what I have read, keep the speeds varied as well as the gears. keep the speed under 100mph and rpms under 4500.

08-20-2009, 07:03 PM	#3
ALLT4 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RJT Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Howard PA Posts: 149	Pffft, picked it up, got on highway and wound it out pretty good. Then varied speeds, 3/4 throttle accelerations, didn't really drive any differently than any other car I own. Hammer down, changed the oil at 500, re-set the life, and now am going to wait until like 1500, then regular oil changes when it tells me to. I drove mine hard right off the lot and it seemed to get better and better. Now it seems to have settled in at 1000 miles, doesn't really feel any different with successive drives anymore. Honestly I don't know if there is a right way or wrong way anymore unless you baby it toooo much. To each his own though.

08-23-2009, 09:29 PM	#7
skisax80 Drives: 2010 camaro ss/rs Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: dothan al Posts: 89	define drive hard if you would please...

08-23-2009, 11:48 PM	#8
ALLT4 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RJT Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Howard PA Posts: 149	Basically disregard the owners manual. Lots of medium to 3/4 throttle accelerations to 5000 or 5500 RPM each shift until you attain the speed limit or whatever you're comfortable with. Personally I didn't want to get tooo close to redline until I felt it was fully broken in. You know, pretend you're half assed racing someone. But not to the full extreme redline. Do it a lot then some town driving normally mixed in. I'd get the oil changed quickly if you proceed like that, things will wear in a lot faster especially the rings and they will make particles in the oil. I changed mine at 500 miles and will do it again at 1500 but follow the life meter after that. Best I can explain it.