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Old 04-07-2010, 03:08 PM   #1
Jeffro
 
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Anybody have aftermarket tunnel brace?

I am wondering if anybody has an aftermarket tunnel brace(the crossmember bracket by the stock h-pipe)??? I just noticed that the stock crossmember bracket is thin and cheap! Are they worth it?? What is the purpose of them?? If theyre worth it whats a good brand to get??
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:27 PM   #2
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I have this one from BMR:



JM
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:39 PM   #3
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I have this one from BMR:



JM
That looks nice but why did you get it? Whats the purpose of them? Do aftermarket braces really work?? Where did you get that brace and how much did you pay?
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:40 PM   #4
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theres a guy here on the forum that made his own and it looked pretty cool
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:42 PM   #5
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I am using the BMR on my car... as are a couple customers. When you combine it with the Sub-Frame connectors it makes a noticeable difference in chassis stiffness. I recommend it if you plan on adding more HP, or really want to improve rearend traction.
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:49 PM   #6
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I am using the BMR on my car... as are a couple customers. When you combine it with the Sub-Frame connectors it makes a noticeable difference in chassis stiffness. I recommend it if you plan on adding more HP, or really want to improve rearend traction.
Whats the difference between the BMR subframe connectors and the Hotchkis chassis brace?? The only difference I see is the price and with the Hotchkis brace you dont have to buy the tunnel brace seperately.
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:50 PM   #7
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Is it worth just buying an aftermarket tunnel brace or should I just invest my money in something like the Hotchkis chassis brace?
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #8
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I'd get the Hotchkis
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:35 PM   #9
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I would go ahead and use the SFCs and the tunnel brace. The brace itself will not make much of a difference, but the two combined, you will feel the difference.
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:52 PM   #10
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I make a CNC machined tunnel brace. Theres a link in my sig to click for pics and more info.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:24 PM   #11
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I'd get the Hotchkis
+1. I did!!
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:56 AM   #12
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Whats the difference between the BMR subframe connectors and the Hotchkis chassis brace?? The only difference I see is the price and with the Hotchkis brace you dont have to buy the tunnel brace seperately.
BMR is the only company making a subframe connector for the 2010 Camaro. The BMR subframe connector connects the front subframe to the driveshaft tunnel to the rear subframe.

The other chassis brace connects to the rear cradle, not the rear subframe. The problem is that the rear cradle assembly has a bushing between the cradle and the body of the car. As that bushing flexes, the chassis brace flexes as well.

At BMR, we feel that the best way to stiffen the chassis is to connect the subframe connector from one solid point (front subframe) to another solid point (rear subframe). Even better if you can connect to a 3rd solid point (driveshaft tunnel). Other companies stiffen the chassis by connecting a solid point to a flexible point.

By the way, the BMR piece is $150-$200 less expensive as well.

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Old 04-14-2010, 10:20 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by g-townmach View Post
I make a CNC machined tunnel brace. Theres a link in my sig to click for pics and more info.
Best one out in my opinion.

Still trying to get one but every week or so something "more important" pops up. lmao

Heard nothing but great from his products and he's a C5 guy....why wouldn't you want to give him the business first?!!

Good luck,
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:00 PM   #14
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If you're asking if JUST a aftermarket tunnel brace is worth it, IMO, no. The forces on it are lateral and the stock plate works ok, for what it is. Yes if you take it off, you can flex it easily, but bolt it up and try it again. It doesn't bend at all. The "humps" molded into it give it more rigidity. A full chassis brace is the best way to go and I think you have to go aftermarket tunnel brace or modify the stock one for use with the BMR brace. Both the BMR and Hotchkis have their strengths. I like that the Hotchkis is no lower than the lowest point already on the car. The BMR does drop down a little but it's not massively significant. If your car is lowered or going to be lowered, this could possibly be an issue.
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