Comp cam @ 5,000 miles - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Bell040 · 06-02-2014, 10:46 AM

I had 80,000 miles on my Lunati cam for what its worth (no problems at all) ... before I traded it in this past weekend.

BFASTNOTLAST · 06-02-2014, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bell040

I had 80,000 miles on my Lunati cam for what its worth (no problems at all) ... before I traded it in this past weekend.

I went with a Lunati too, Hopefully I have the same luck as you.

TurboBuick6 · 06-02-2014, 02:21 PM

It is not an issue with +400lbs over the nose?

axis · 06-02-2014, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboBuick6

It is not an issue with +400lbs over the nose?

I don't know, maybe we should look at the STOCK lifters, and caps.

lsuguy · 06-02-2014, 03:34 PM

Not to threadjack but my Comp cam has 5,000 miles on it too. Amsoil Signature and Redline for the life of the cam and oil change intervals probably averaged 1500 miles in between.

My carnage didn't stop at the camshaft but I won't go into those details here.

1sick_eg · 06-02-2014, 03:52 PM

That's it, I'm staying stock cams and going with boost.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

BFASTNOTLAST · 06-02-2014, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboBuick6

It is not an issue with +400lbs over the nose?

At 1.175 its at 370....

christianchevell · 06-02-2014, 05:35 PM

wondering if we are getting damn Chinese blanks for cams? I know the Chinese make everything else now, and sure make a lot of blanks, it would be nice to know like in the old days your bump stick was made in America not some remelting of a crushed car in china. And he is lucky he ran ls30 or the carnage may have been a lot worse, thank god my cam has no whine .......... And was broken in well. And I never have said only the oil can be the fault of getting a bad cam the process of making the cam and impurities in the metal can be death to cam, too high of spring pressure can be death to a cam, not being broken in right can be certain death to a cam...any cam. Also irregular lifter bores from warping can be death to cam, impurities in the oil can be death to a cam, lack of lubrication, lack of zddp, etc etc etc. Its a shame american products probably are being made we trust and who knows if its origin for the metal is Chinese smelting factories belching pollution and sucking the life from American steel factories,( like they exist), while giving inferior product. this "cam whine" has been on other extensive posts with some people getting more than one whining cam what a shame. I would of course definitely try to return the cam to comp cam with a vengeance and ask WTF? I can see clearly the metal degrading in the second photo the start of potholes in the surface of the second lobe is usually something on a cam with like 20+ times your mileage and regular oil. To be fair though this is a gathering place for problems being a internet forum, of the people I know who have cammed their Camaro in my area we have no problems to speak of.......... yet. Chances are someone somewhere will get defective products, and especially if the blanks are not quality controlled in any way and the metal impure or without the right essential minerals in the right amounts....kind of like a 307 from the day that was made with not enough nickel in the casting causing it to wear out a lot more quickly. This issue is something I wish there were real experts to diagnose these issues other than speculation or such yet testing the metal would be expensive and could change from one end of the cam to the other in many places. I would say from your pics you are in the early stages of a cam failure yes from the pitting obviously and changing it was essentially a life saver form having spared all your engine bearings etc.... and other upper valve train parts from the catastrophic damage that would occur but also from the metal contamination in the oil hurting your engine from this wear. You made a good call to save your engine, and that's good. I would do the same if having a similar problem..... knock on wood.

strych9 · 06-02-2014, 05:36 PM

Any internal mod is a risk. Most cams fail due to an improper setup...too much/not enough spring, wrong pushrod length, too much/not enough lifter preload, etc. Bad cam cores are rare, and if you're using a name-brand, full-synthetic oil you can usually rule that out as well/

strych9 · 06-02-2014, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christianchevell

wondering if we are getting damn Chinese blanks for cams? I know the Chinese make everything else now, and sure make a lot of blanks, it would be nice to know like in the old days your bump stick was made in America not some remelting of a crushed car in china. And he is lucky he ran ls30 or the carnage may have been a lot worse, thank god my cam has no whine .......... And was broken in well.

Break in on a roller cam? No. Springs need to be thermal cycled, but there is no break in for a roller cam.

1sick_eg · 06-02-2014, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strych9

Any internal mod is a risk. Most cams fail due to an improper setup...too much/not enough spring, wrong pushrod length, too much/not enough lifter preload, etc. Bad cam cores are rare, and if you're using a name-brand, full-synthetic oil you can usually rule that out as well/

That use to be the case anyway. Parts are getting more and more outsourced, and I find it hard to believe that this many people have the wrong valvetrain setup for their cam. It is certainly possible, but this seems to be happening to people that seem to have the correct setup.

I've said this in other threads, and I'm not saying it is this case, buy we've had this problem before. Why? Outsourcing and crap products. Metal hardness was crap. Quality control isn't what it use to be.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

christianchevell · 06-02-2014, 06:45 PM

yes well driven racing if any of you read other posts I have made was experiencing a 1 in 10 cam failure rate before formulating and using a break in procedure with their (what for our engines is) BR30 and then the rate dropped to 1 in 40 failure. Quite a difference on a nascar engine that most likely was completely torn down and rebuilt due to the failure on the dyno...... from 10% to 2.5% is 300% better, and they do recommend a break in for a roller cam as its also needed not just to heat cycle the springs but also for the lifter seals, and draining it removes any metal particle that may have came loose..........kind of exactly like any flat tappet cam that we all grew up loving in multiple muscle cars still driving today from the 60s-70s-80s etc .
I broke in the cam in my engine with br30 draining it after dyno h.p. tuning. then draining it again 300 miles later of its br30, then filling it with ls30. I am serious about taking good care of my engine. I used to build all my own hot rod engines.

Here once again I will post this:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...-break-in-too/

Btw driven racing oil is in the new ls magazine published for comp cams.

http://www.cpgnation.com/ls-power/?AID=3236

I know I do not know it all, that's why I research. And try finding where your cam manufacturer buys your blanks...... I did, not so easy, the vaunted night fury comes from ....comp cams, via? my TSP cam comes from comp cams via? many cams come from comp cam others label as theirs........ and for those of you who do think you know other wise well things are not always that easy to figure out, like if driven racing oil is used by professionals.. and recommended by seal and bearing makers and piston ring makers and etc etc is it needed in a just stock engine? most likely not so much, but it could not hurt. And yes as in other posts I wish to tell people oil will be reformulated again to crapola standards coming in just 2017 for making oil with very low viscosity for all the turbo four bangers that are going to be out there as CAFE standards come into play forcing auto makers to raise fuel economy to ....55 mpg by raising the bar 5mpg per year until they all reach 55mpg........ hey what a friggin wonderful world living with the Liberals and the EPA huh? Oh yes and they want to force all coal plants out of business, raise your taxes, and all in the name of letting places like China pollute more than ever!!!!!! While we struggle to economic death and buy all our goods from the Chinese because we cannot pollute....oh did I just say that..OMG I am rambling Forgive me oh my I better stop before I get in trouble and say something really bluntly true about our current government ...... After all we do not have Edward Snowden to protect us anymore..... lol

axis · 06-02-2014, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Btw driven racing oil is in the new ls magazine published for comp cams.

http://www.cpgnation.com/ls-power/?AID=3236

Now i'm sold. Driven bought a 2 page spread in LS power mag. This is the proof i've been looking for that roller cams NEED a break in oil.

Pluto · 06-02-2014, 07:41 PM

Threads like this push me further and further away from a cam swap

06-02-2014, 10:46 AM	#15
Bell040 Drives: 2SS/RS - Black - GFX Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: B'ham, Alabama Posts: 2,458 View My Garage	I had 80,000 miles on my Lunati cam for what its worth (no problems at all) ... before I traded it in this past weekend. __________________ Ordered: 10-13-08 Built: 3-30-09 (#1691) Recieved: 6-12-09 Blacked out, Cammed (Lunati Voodoo 233/245, .578/.598 @114°, +4°), ARH LTs, VR OTR CAI, Cutouts, and lots of other fun mods.

06-02-2014, 03:34 PM	#19
lsuguy Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2011 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 362 View My Garage	Not to threadjack but my Comp cam has 5,000 miles on it too. Amsoil Signature and Redline for the life of the cam and oil change intervals probably averaged 1500 miles in between. My carnage didn't stop at the camshaft but I won't go into those details here. Attached Images

06-02-2014, 03:52 PM	#20
1sick_eg Drives: 14 Camaro 1LE,328i, and some Hondas Join Date: May 2014 Location: Virginia Posts: 799	That's it, I'm staying stock cams and going with boost. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk __________________ 14' Camaro 1LE - Now self-tuned FRH ported heads, Cam Motion LL solid roller, Jesel rockers, Morel lifters, Kooks headers, Corsa exhaust, ADM intake, Stock compression/bore/stroke 551whp 504wtq

06-02-2014, 05:35 PM	#22
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	wondering if we are getting damn Chinese blanks for cams? I know the Chinese make everything else now, and sure make a lot of blanks, it would be nice to know like in the old days your bump stick was made in America not some remelting of a crushed car in china. And he is lucky he ran ls30 or the carnage may have been a lot worse, thank god my cam has no whine .......... And was broken in well. And I never have said only the oil can be the fault of getting a bad cam the process of making the cam and impurities in the metal can be death to cam, too high of spring pressure can be death to a cam, not being broken in right can be certain death to a cam...any cam. Also irregular lifter bores from warping can be death to cam, impurities in the oil can be death to a cam, lack of lubrication, lack of zddp, etc etc etc. Its a shame american products probably are being made we trust and who knows if its origin for the metal is Chinese smelting factories belching pollution and sucking the life from American steel factories,( like they exist), while giving inferior product. this "cam whine" has been on other extensive posts with some people getting more than one whining cam what a shame. I would of course definitely try to return the cam to comp cam with a vengeance and ask WTF? I can see clearly the metal degrading in the second photo the start of potholes in the surface of the second lobe is usually something on a cam with like 20+ times your mileage and regular oil. To be fair though this is a gathering place for problems being a internet forum, of the people I know who have cammed their Camaro in my area we have no problems to speak of.......... yet. Chances are someone somewhere will get defective products, and especially if the blanks are not quality controlled in any way and the metal impure or without the right essential minerals in the right amounts....kind of like a 307 from the day that was made with not enough nickel in the casting causing it to wear out a lot more quickly. This issue is something I wish there were real experts to diagnose these issues other than speculation or such yet testing the metal would be expensive and could change from one end of the cam to the other in many places. I would say from your pics you are in the early stages of a cam failure yes from the pitting obviously and changing it was essentially a life saver form having spared all your engine bearings etc.... and other upper valve train parts from the catastrophic damage that would occur but also from the metal contamination in the oil hurting your engine from this wear. You made a good call to save your engine, and that's good. I would do the same if having a similar problem..... knock on wood. __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop Last edited by christianchevell; 06-02-2014 at 06:02 PM.

06-02-2014, 05:36 PM	#23
strych9 I'll be back... Drives: Subaru, HD Road Glide Special Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 3,036 View My Garage	Any internal mod is a risk. Most cams fail due to an improper setup...too much/not enough spring, wrong pushrod length, too much/not enough lifter preload, etc. Bad cam cores are rare, and if you're using a name-brand, full-synthetic oil you can usually rule that out as well/ __________________ Bye bye, Bumblebee! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Build Journal My Garage GoPro Mic Hack

06-02-2014, 02:21 PM	#17
TurboBuick6 Drives: 2004 GTO, LQ9 Join Date: May 2014 Location: Michigan Posts: 39	It is not an issue with +400lbs over the nose?

06-02-2014, 06:45 PM	#26
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	yes well driven racing if any of you read other posts I have made was experiencing a 1 in 10 cam failure rate before formulating and using a break in procedure with their (what for our engines is) BR30 and then the rate dropped to 1 in 40 failure. Quite a difference on a nascar engine that most likely was completely torn down and rebuilt due to the failure on the dyno...... from 10% to 2.5% is 300% better, and they do recommend a break in for a roller cam as its also needed not just to heat cycle the springs but also for the lifter seals, and draining it removes any metal particle that may have came loose..........kind of exactly like any flat tappet cam that we all grew up loving in multiple muscle cars still driving today from the 60s-70s-80s etc . I broke in the cam in my engine with br30 draining it after dyno h.p. tuning. then draining it again 300 miles later of its br30, then filling it with ls30. I am serious about taking good care of my engine. I used to build all my own hot rod engines. Here once again I will post this: http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...-break-in-too/ Btw driven racing oil is in the new ls magazine published for comp cams. http://www.cpgnation.com/ls-power/?AID=3236 I know I do not know it all, that's why I research. And try finding where your cam manufacturer buys your blanks...... I did, not so easy, the vaunted night fury comes from ....comp cams, via? my TSP cam comes from comp cams via? many cams come from comp cam others label as theirs........ and for those of you who do think you know other wise well things are not always that easy to figure out, like if driven racing oil is used by professionals.. and recommended by seal and bearing makers and piston ring makers and etc etc is it needed in a just stock engine? most likely not so much, but it could not hurt. And yes as in other posts I wish to tell people oil will be reformulated again to crapola standards coming in just 2017 for making oil with very low viscosity for all the turbo four bangers that are going to be out there as CAFE standards come into play forcing auto makers to raise fuel economy to ....55 mpg by raising the bar 5mpg per year until they all reach 55mpg........ hey what a friggin wonderful world living with the Liberals and the EPA huh? Oh yes and they want to force all coal plants out of business, raise your taxes, and all in the name of letting places like China pollute more than ever!!!!!! While we struggle to economic death and buy all our goods from the Chinese because we cannot pollute....oh did I just say that..OMG I am rambling Forgive me oh my I better stop before I get in trouble and say something really bluntly true about our current government ...... After all we do not have Edward Snowden to protect us anymore..... lol __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop Last edited by christianchevell; 06-02-2014 at 06:56 PM.

06-02-2014, 07:41 PM	#28
Pluto Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: South Texas Posts: 1,191 View My Garage	Threads like this push me further and further away from a cam swap __________________ 2013 VR Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Small, but effective mod list: Roto-Fab Intake, TSP 2" Long tubes, TSP catless mids, MSD spark plug wires, stock catback, Elite Catch Can, APEX washer relocation and scoop, VMAX throttle body, Diablo InTune-Tuned by Matt@FSP, and a JacFab license plate bracket.