05-06-2012, 12:24 PM | #1 |
Formerly Lil'BlueCoupe
Drives: '13 2LT/RS Vert, Summit White Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vegas Baby!!!!!!!!
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Help!....I'm changing my oil on my 2012 V6
Hey folks I am a do it yourselfer, and I went out and bought my mobile 500 oil and fram filter, I noticed that the filter is like I have not seen since I used to have this old fifties car where you pull a cannister off and remove the oil filter from the inside, but this one is a smaller version of it. Is this the right filter? I havent even popped the hood yet to get to work on it because the wifey just used it and I want it to cool off and besides that the Talladega race is on, I hope someone answers this post before I get to work on it.
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05-07-2012, 09:45 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1LS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NE Ohio
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It sounds like you have the correct filter. The housing is on the right side of the motor as you're looking from the front. Just make sure to get the gasket from the old filter out; sometimes it can get stuck when removing the old filter.
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05-07-2012, 12:54 PM | #3 |
Drives: '09 Honda Civic LX Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Knoxville
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And as a fellow diy'er I would recommend not using FRAM. Go to autozone or advanced auto parts, or orielly's and get a Purolator Pureone filter.
Too many bad stories about FRAM.
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05-07-2012, 02:31 PM | #4 |
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Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
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I would not use mobile 500 oil....use only a good full synthetic to avoid timing chain wear issues...
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05-08-2012, 01:41 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2012 LS M6, Black Join Date: May 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,045
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Ditto on Fram. IMHO, poor design/material choice on the anti-drain-back valves. Besides PureOne, look at NAPA Gold filters.
Mobil 1 synthetic for me. I have (and have had) many high mileage vehicles, have never suffered an oil-related failure and the engines are clean when taken apart. I'm sold. John B.
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05-08-2012, 11:21 AM | #6 |
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Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
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Napa filters are made by Wix.....no better out there. We will NOT use Fram on our race motors.....have had them collapse under high volumne.
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05-13-2012, 07:31 PM | #7 |
Formerly Lil'BlueCoupe
Drives: '13 2LT/RS Vert, Summit White Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vegas Baby!!!!!!!!
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Well folks thanks for all the great information, however I got right on to changing my oil before I got all this advice, I will run it for a few thousand miles and then change up to the synthetic oil you all are recommending, and I also will use a different oil filter as well, even though I have never had an issue with fram oil filters.
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05-13-2012, 07:47 PM | #8 |
ZLT!!! COTW (8/5/13)
Drives: 2011 IOM 1LT RS M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Slatington, PA
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Did that void your warranty because the Dealer is not keeping record of the oil change??? If is like that, I can work on mine...
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05-14-2012, 08:36 PM | #9 |
Formerly Lil'BlueCoupe
Drives: '13 2LT/RS Vert, Summit White Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vegas Baby!!!!!!!!
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I dont know if it voids warranty if you are doing preventive maintenance on your own, in fact I have never heard of it voiding warranty. I imagine if you screw up and break something or if something breaks directly related to the work you just did then it voids warranty. It says in the owners manual that you can do it yourself and it recommends certain materials to use so I guess you can do it.
This is definitely not the first car I have ever owned under warranty and I have always changed my own oil, and without screwing up my car.....ever. I just cannot bring myself to pay the outrageous amount of money these dealers charge for something as simple as changing my oil that I can get for a good price at walmart. Changing oil in this car is the easiest I have EVER done in any car. Think about it- you are going to unscrew a bolt, drain oil, replace bolt, unscrew top of filter housing, pull old filter out, put some oil on the rubber parts of the filter with your finger, drop filter in housing, replace O-ring, screw filter housing cap back on and tighten, fill with correct amount of oil, and Whalla! you are done!, With enough bananas you could teach a chimp to do it.........IT'S THAT EASY!!!! Why should you pay some high priced mechanic to do it in a dealership and wait for several hours to get you car back, only to find they either forgot the bolt or use the right oil? Ya they probably have insurance if such a thing might happen, but why mess with it, just do it yourself
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05-15-2012, 12:27 PM | #10 | |
Drives: 2012 LS M6, Black Join Date: May 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Quote:
John B.
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05-28-2012, 10:23 AM | #11 | |
Chevy 4 Life
Drives: 2012 45th anniversary RS Vert Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: cheyenne WY
Posts: 127
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Quote:
Hate to pop that DIY'er cherry but there is no valves in the filter for the LFX engine...its not a canister filter but an insert for a permanant filter housing. Fram are garbage i always use mobil 1, Bosch or KN filters on my vehicles and you cant go wrong with a good old jug of Quakerstate or mobil 1 synthetic...we can agree on that |
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06-02-2012, 04:51 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2012 2LS Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: San Antonio, Tx
Posts: 4
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I'm also doing my first oil change and I going to go with full synthetic but my dad wants me to put in 20w50 not what the manual says. I dont know if that will mess up the engine
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06-11-2012, 07:52 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Victory Red Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 156
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No , use what GM says to use 5W30 . I once did that with a vehicle before that called for 10W30 but used 20W50 instead and ended up with early oil pump failure( maybe because of the thicker oil used ? ) . Also the newer engines have tighter tolerances and require the lighter weight oils .
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07-04-2012, 08:42 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florence New Jersey
Posts: 1,125
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Your dad must be a truck driver... I am too. I've gone with 0w-30 Mobil 1 in my RS. I think it's supposed to save fuel.
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