02-14-2011, 09:09 PM | #1 |
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Rear Wheel Hub Removal....Help!
Okay, I'm attempting to remove the rear wheel hubs so that I can replace the wheel studs with longer ones. I even have the big 3 volume GM maintenance books, which I'm starting to think really suck!! Page 16-21 says:
1) remove and support the vehicle.....(done) 2) remove the tire and wheel assembly.....(done) 3) remove the rear brake rotor.....(done) 4) remove the rear wheel speed sensor.....(done) 5) separate the wheel drive shaft from the wheel bearing/hub assembly.....(NOT done) Here's where I get confused. The picture only shows removing the 3 bolts on the back side of the knuckle to remove the hub. No picture or even mention of the big central axle nut in the center of the hub. Am I missing something here, that does have to come off, doesn't it? If I go look up the wheel drive shaft removal, that nut has be to broken loose before the rotors and calipers are removed. Why the hell would the book tell me to remove the rotors and then not even mention removing or installing the main axle nut. I don't see any way of removing the hub without removing that nut!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated. These books suck!!! (or maybe I'm just dumb!!). Thanks. |
02-14-2011, 11:57 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,697
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Yes, that big nut in the middle has to come off. It holds the axle into the hub. Take that off and you are clear sailing. And sad to say, to get that nut off without damaging the wheel studs, you will have to put the brakes back together so you can get the nut off. That would be the easiest unless you have an impact gun handy.
Just make sure you have a torque wrench for putting it back together. |
02-15-2011, 06:58 AM | #3 |
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New manuals always have tons of mistakes. They're probably generating change pages daily. The should be sending some of these to you if you ordered them from Helm.
Six months after I got my 1998 F-Body set from Helm, they contacted me and sent me an updated set for free, due to the number of errors in the original printing.
__________________
Black 2SS ordered 1/4/2010, received 2/19/2010
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02-15-2011, 08:23 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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02-15-2011, 08:37 AM | #5 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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I reused my caliper bolts as did everyone else I know that has removed them. Why replace them?
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02-15-2011, 08:48 AM | #6 |
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Yeah, that's what I'm saying, I don't see the purpose of replacing the bolts. Maybe use a little Loc-Tite upon re-installation and all should be good, right?!?!? What about the axle nut, has anyone replaced that yet, or are those being re-used also?
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02-15-2011, 10:45 AM | #7 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,697
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Quote:
The only reason I can see that GM wants the Caliper bolts replaced...or perhaps it's Brembo that is dictating that...is perhaps due to stretch when they are tightened. They may feel that because the bolts/threads stretch so much upon installation, they could break or fail if you reuse them. Honestly, my advice is, if they are saying to replace them, there is a reason for it. Surely they aren't that expensive and better safe than sorry. |
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02-15-2011, 11:32 AM | #8 |
Drives: Everywhere Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: TX
Posts: 852
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11515781-SS Rear caliper bolt list for a whopping $1.95 each
13217120-Axle nut list for $8.42 each Just be sure to order a week ahead of the swap because if your dealer doesn't stock them it make take some time to get them in. |
02-15-2011, 11:39 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 1,697
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There it is...and money well spent IMHO.
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02-15-2011, 01:23 PM | #10 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,483
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I'd put the brakes back on and use the procedure on the wheel drive shaft page to hold the rotor with a drift punch through the cooling fins. Just be carefull not to damage a crossover tube. The drift will need to be resting against the body of the caliper, caliper finish protected by a shop cloth.
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