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Old 02-17-2014, 01:06 PM   #29
revs2ninegrand
 
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Is it pretty driveable around town?
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:57 PM   #30
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Is it pretty driveable around town?
Its soooo driveable.

If I coast it may surge a little, but nothing major and not uncomfortably/noticeably, just bumps it up 300 rpm every few seconds till you give a little gas.

It shakes/rocks at idle (like its supposed to) but again the really rougher part is not constant, it comes and goes. Its got a really nice lope to it, but it doesnt effect my driving at all.

It bucks/shudders for a half a second when you let off the brake until you give it a lil gas.

I love it, wish I could drive at 10 mph everywhere.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:02 PM   #31
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not challenging you at any stoplights!
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:32 AM   #32
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not challenging you at any stoplights!
Haha, thanks although If I leave hard at all from a stoplight ill be spinning bad. Need new tires
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:57 PM   #33
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what exhaust are you running? sounds great!
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Old 03-05-2014, 02:00 PM   #34
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what exhaust are you running? sounds great!
SP 1 7/8" headers
SP/SW HF Cats
STOCK L99 Center Resonator
SOLO Axle back with J pipes
Quad 4" tips


Thanks man!
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:51 AM   #35
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Couple of questions

How long did it take?

What is your experience with working on stuff like this?

What was the total cost?

Any tips / pointers that you've learned along the way that you wish you would've known prior?
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:23 AM   #36
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This was a while back, and had some remote tuning issues, along with have to do trans work at the same time. I also had time off and really took my time, so it took a few days.

This was my first time doing internal engine work, but I had experience with bolt ons on a few cars, transmission work on my old 4th gen, and dropping the trans and engine a couple times on my 4th gen. I was 24 at the time, so I couldnt have had too much experience haha.

Dont remember the total cost, sorry it was a while back, 3 grand in parts I think, plus all the incidentals. Shop around and save on each little piece, or find a shop/site that will put the whole package together and give you a discount (and avoid sales tax). All the reputable places will be about the same. The price is very dependent on which options you choose (bare minimum vs bulletproof).

Pointers, read as many threads as you can, get the cell phone number of an expert that you can call or text in case something goes wrong. Dont repeat other people's mistakes.

Get all the tools, fluids, oil soak, rags, containers, paint pens/sharpies, torque wrench, etc etc ready before you start. Sucks to get stuck on something cause you have to make a trip.

I would order extra valve seals, since you are almost guaranteed to mess one or two up, by installing wrong, or installing a seal before you put the spring seat on haha.

Use ziplock bags and a sharpie to organize parts and bolts, this helped me out so much. Work carefully, its really not that hard.

Forgot to mention,
I was part of the problem when Lethal was sending comp cams out with too much spring pressure (Pac 1208x springs), so I had problems and had to do the cam job over again. It was much quicker the second time around. Doing a cam only is not a big deal at all, I would do it again.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
This was a while back, and had some remote tuning issues, along with have to do trans work at the same time. I also had time off and really took my time, so it took a few days.

This was my first time doing internal engine work, but I had experience with bolt ons on a few cars, transmission work on my old 4th gen, and dropping the trans and engine a couple times on my 4th gen. I was 24 at the time, so I couldnt have had too much experience haha.

Dont remember the total cost, sorry it was a while back, 3 grand in parts I think, plus all the incidentals. Shop around and save on each little piece, or find a shop/site that will put the whole package together and give you a discount (and avoid sales tax). All the reputable places will be about the same. The price is very dependent on which options you choose (bare minimum vs bulletproof).

Pointers, read as many threads as you can, get the cell phone number of an expert that you can call or text in case something goes wrong. Dont repeat other people's mistakes.

Get all the tools, fluids, oil soak, rags, containers, paint pens/sharpies, torque wrench, etc etc ready before you start. Sucks to get stuck on something cause you have to make a trip.

I would order extra valve seals, since you are almost guaranteed to mess one or two up, by installing wrong, or installing a seal before you put the spring seat on haha.

Use ziplock bags and a sharpie to organize parts and bolts, this helped me out so much. Work carefully, its really not that hard.

Forgot to mention,
I was part of the problem when Lethal was sending comp cams out with too much spring pressure (Pac 1208x springs), so I had problems and had to do the cam job over again. It was much quicker the second time around. Doing a cam only is not a big deal at all, I would do it again.
Yeah I too have an L99 and all the labor costs associated with our A6's make me nervous since it seems like they charge $1,500+ in labor alone is for a good reason.

But you pretty much removed the front fascia and all correct?
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Old 02-29-2016, 01:31 PM   #38
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Yeah I too have an L99 and all the labor costs associated with our A6's make me nervous since it seems like they charge $1,500+ in labor alone is for a good reason.

But you pretty much removed the front fascia and all correct?
First time I removed the front fascia because I was installing a trans cooler. Second time I left the fascia on, didnt make it too much more difficult.

Yeah, that labor is because they have to remove the heads. But removing the heads isnt that big of a deal, and makes the springs/rockers easier to work on.
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