Looking for a silver lining!!

[Drive fast, take chances]

Remember; 'Time wounds all heals' so don't worry about sueing an 85 year old - if you are going to drive at that age, you need to be responsible for what you cause. I'm over retirement age my self and still drive a Super Charged 2010SS - 580hp to the tires, 6 sp stick,
I'd get it fixed - the way I wanted and not worry about keeping it stock. The way a good body shop can repair things today it will be OK - just get a good body shop.

[Worgnakh]

Was the driver using a cell phone

[ActNup NY]

Damnnnnnnn !!!! Sorry to hear and see that man. Beautiful car. I hope that your alright. They need to seriously pass a law that states after a certain age old folks can't drive or something. Or atleast have them come in a re-test their driving skills , eye sight, reflexs skills I mean everything man. Cause they are dangerous out here in these streets man. The kicking part is I always seem to see the elderly ones either driving the fancy cars, or a car that is way to big for them to handle.

[Lou_Dorchen]

Originally Posted by wocampb

If they do decide to fix it, I would go after the other driver for at the very least diminished value on the vehicle. This way you won't be so upside when you do decide to sell it and get something new.

That's very tough to get. His car is pretty new though, so he might be one of the few who can pull it off.

[driyac]

Total is on average around ~70% of the cars worth at that time. If it is close to that or more they will total it. Also Body shops will typically make sure you come in under that 70% because they make the moneyyyyy, if its totaled they make nothing...

[owensmat]

Originally Posted by invaderzim

not exactly. its more often than not either 0% or discounts. not both. judging by him still owing $40k I'm guessing that was his situation. getting, say, a $38k loan at 2% for 6yrs beats a $42k loan at 0% for 6yrs anytime of the week and twice on Sunday. sure the difference can be made up with the gains you can get by putting the cash in a savings account and even them out to be about the same. but then you wouldn't be so much upside-down on the loan if you had taken the discounts instead of the 0% in the unfortunate event that something like this happens. just saying. 0% is, more times than not, anything but free money. these days not many people are in the business of giving away free money. no to make the OP feel worse and I'm certainly not judging him. just hoping it was a lesson learned. even if it was given the hard way.

The car was bought with the 72 month 0% and $4,500 off in discounts, which included GM employee, $1,00 private offer cash and $1,000 off for something else I don't remember. So, for me, it did work out to put zero down.

[owensmat]

Originally Posted by Chiefish

Damn I just made a call to my supplier and they do have all the parts available in aftermarket for our cars already. The hoods are even aluminum like the stock one is.
Let me know the insurance co and I can check thier guidlines tho and tell you what you can get away with.

Insurance Company is Citizens/Hanover. Thanks for any help that you can provide, Chiefish!

[kylenewman]

I'd hope for it to be repaired so I wasn't making payments on a totaled car for the next 2 years.

[Chiefish]

Ok after market sheet metal should not be considered for the first three model years, so your good on the sheet metal. However they do recomend LKQ (salvage or junk yard parts ) after the first model year. Since yours is an 11 you might have to get used parts.
So to sum it up, if the insurance estimater is doing thier job correctly, you will get either slavage yard parts or new oem parts. If your body shop is any good they can get brand new oem parts from gm for the same price if not better as the salvage yard parts cost. If they say they dont know about that tell them to talk to thier GM dealer about getting the parts on the GM Conquest Program. Its a program by GM that allows shops to purchase oem parts at the same competitive prices as the A/M and salvage parts go for. I know for a fact it is good program as I use it every day to get around using crap parts on jobs.
If you have any other questions or need help Ill try to give you more info as an educated consumer is a great consumer, plus you belong to the Camaro family

[myold88]

^^ What most of you are not considering is this cars mileage.... ^^
As an insurance adjuster for 5 major companies over the years I would NEVER be expected to put
used or aftermarket parts on this car if it has less than 4-5,000 miles on the odometer.
I also doubt this car is a total, but a cars salvage value is also a factor.
This car would easily bring over 50% in salvage, making totalling it a factor in deciding to repair or total.

[Chiefish]

I got my car in August of 11 and have over 16,000 miles , so if its a daily driver its mileage might be over 4 or 5000. I have seen staff estimaters write for a/m on same model year cars with under 5000 miles on them. It depends on the estimater and the insurance co. Of course you are right tho the lower the mileage the chances are better as to what its written for. You sound like one that has a grip on reality when writing an est. I wish you worked around this area. Oh yea nice car too.

[myold88]

^^ Thanks ^^
States vary but here in Ct we write estimates under the authority of the staff appaisers &/or adjusters
own CT license. In other words it's issued to the person, not the insurance company your working for.
As an appraiser there's many things to consider, but if possible I always complete an estimate
as if I owned the car.
All the companies I have worked for knew that and I never had a problem.

[owensmat]

First off, I appreciate the help, advice and suggestions. For background info, the car is a 2011, bought new 12/16/11 and with 4,400 miles on the clock. The car was perfect before the accident. At this point, I've looked closer at the car and have talked to the shop and adjustor about some things. Unfortunately, the frame is visibly bent in the lower front of the car and will need replacement. They are unsure how far back the damage goes and will be putting it on their machine later today to check it with specs, etc. Shop says it doesn't look too bad, but they won't know until they get it torn apart and on the rack. As for other damage, it definitely needs a new front end body. New fenders, hood and front bumper, etc. Needs new headlights, etc. The CAI appears to be in tact and the radiator does not appear to have been pushed into the engine. Close, but not touching. Front washer bottles, etc are all bent up. Wheels appear in tact and undamaged. No glass break. So, it appears the front end is where the damage is isolated. I'll have to wait and see what they say. After seeing it, I feel like I probably want them to fix it. I miss the car already and would hate to see it go. We'll see though. Insurance said they will give me up to $1,000 for any modifications that I made aftermarket, such as the grill, Pfadt products, etc. If they do fix it, I'm going to consider some enhancements. So far these are likely: HID fogs to match the HID RS Headlights. Sprayed on matte rally stripes instead of the vinyl that's on there. I'm also considering changing to a different style hood and bumper cover and possibly the whole TJin front end? Looking into some things and considering some options. I'm open to hear any suggestions around any of that though.

[owensmat]

Originally Posted by Chiefish

Ok after market sheet metal should not be considered for the first three model years, so your good on the sheet metal. However they do recomend LKQ (salvage or junk yard parts ) after the first model year. Since yours is an 11 you might have to get used parts.
So to sum it up, if the insurance estimater is doing thier job correctly, you will get either slavage yard parts or new oem parts. If your body shop is any good they can get brand new oem parts from gm for the same price if not better as the salvage yard parts cost. If they say they dont know about that tell them to talk to thier GM dealer about getting the parts on the GM Conquest Program. Its a program by GM that allows shops to purchase oem parts at the same competitive prices as the A/M and salvage parts go for. I know for a fact it is good program as I use it every day to get around using crap parts on jobs.
If you have any other questions or need help Ill try to give you more info as an educated consumer is a great consumer, plus you belong to the Camaro family

Depending on which way I go, I will keep this info on the Conquest Program. Thank you very much, Chiefish and thanks for all your help here. Feeling a little better after talking to everyone. They waived my deductible, which I'm happy about and the Citizens rep and shop I'm working with have been great so far. The support here has been great too!