My new door switch - Page 8 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

OmniCamaro · 06-29-2014, 07:35 AM

It was suggested to me that I post a link to my thread on running wires through the door connectors. So here you go: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359414

Thanks again DWALEX for this thread. It got me on the right path.

DWALEX · 06-29-2014, 07:46 AM

thanks to you for improve the thread

murrayjw · 07-13-2014, 04:00 PM

I’m doing the MyLink upgrade and door switches at the same time on a 2010. I stopped by Ofer’s shop in AZ and he gave me the connectors (thanks Ofer!) The yellow (dimming wire) and black (ground) wires are short (5”). I assume this is because they are spliced somewhere within the existing wire harness inside the door. The other two wires are long enough to go out the door.

I assume that I run the two long wires thru the door and connect to the pink/black and orange/black at the HVAC/Radio connector and the two short wires splice into the yellow and black wires on the window switch within the door.

GearHeadPeter · 07-14-2014, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrayjw

I’m doing the MyLink upgrade and door switches at the same time on a 2010. I stopped by Ofer’s shop in AZ and he gave me the connectors (thanks Ofer!) The yellow (dimming wire) and black (ground) wires are short (5”). I assume this is because they are spliced somewhere within the existing wire harness inside the door. The other two wires are long enough to go out the door.

I assume that I run the two long wires thru the door and connect to the pink/black and orange/black at the HVAC/Radio connector and the two short wires splice into the yellow and black wires on the window switch within the door.

Yes to both questions.

NOVAK · 07-14-2014, 06:49 PM

Can I hook up the wires without removing the radio? I just installed an aftermarket stereo with Scosche kit and I do not want to remove the center console, radio, and dash kit to tap the wires unless absolutely necessary. I plan to upgrade my door speakers and dynamat the inside of my doors so I was going to install my new door pulls with lock switches and run the wires through the door to complete that portion of the install. I'm just curious to know if I can tap into the wiring where the BCM is located? I don't know the location of the BCM. I can see in the diagrams that the radio/HVAC wiring connects to the BCM so just wondering if I need to remove the radio or not?

DWALEX · 07-14-2014, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOVAK

Can I hook up the wires without removing the radio? I just installed an aftermarket stereo with Scosche kit and I do not want to remove the center console, radio, and dash kit to tap the wires unless absolutely necessary. I plan to upgrade my door speakers and dynamat the inside of my doors so I was going to install my new door pulls with lock switches and run the wires through the door to complete that portion of the install. I'm just curious to know if I can tap into the wiring where the BCM is located? I don't know the location of the BCM. I can see in the diagrams that the radio/HVAC wiring connects to the BCM so just wondering if I need to remove the radio or not?

No you don't need to removed the radio, the BCM is above the accelerator pedal

murrayjw · 07-14-2014, 07:50 PM

is it just me pr is getting through the boot a huge problem?

DWALEX · 07-14-2014, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrayjw

is it just me pr is getting through the boot a huge problem?

it is a little difficult, you need remove the electrical tape and pull it

murrayjw · 07-14-2014, 10:21 PM

I did the driver side door so far. When I lock using the new switch, the door locks then immediately unlocks. Same results when using remote. The passenger side responds normally from the remote. Any ideas?

DWALEX · 07-14-2014, 10:46 PM

check the wiring connector
pin1 = LED backlight dimming
pin2 = lock
pin 3 = unlock
pin 4 = ground

OmniCamaro · 07-16-2014, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murrayjw

I did the driver side door so far. When I lock using the new switch, the door locks then immediately unlocks. Same results when using remote. The passenger side responds normally from the remote. Any ideas?

Sounds like the car thinks the door is open. Ensure all your connectors are snug.
You could also turn off the safety lockout feature in your cars settings and try that. It's not a fix, just something that may help you figure out the real problem.

lneville220 · 01-18-2018, 08:31 PM

Why do you need new door panels? Why can’t you just cut a whole out and clean it up, use the new switches. What am I missing? I don’t understand why you need a whole new door panel.

Pagliaro · 03-11-2018, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lneville220

Why do you need new door panels? Why can’t you just cut a whole out and clean it up, use the new switches. What am I missing? I don’t understand why you need a whole new door panel.

If you plan to cut holes you'll also need a way to mount.

06-29-2014, 07:35 AM	#99
OmniCamaro US Veteran Drives: 2011 Silver Ice Metallic 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Bossier City, La Posts: 1,407	It was suggested to me that I post a link to my thread on running wires through the door connectors. So here you go: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359414 Thanks again DWALEX for this thread. It got me on the right path. __________________ *Dear Lord, give me the strength to carry on despite my Camaro addiction!* JRE iTSX tune, full cat-less Dynatech exhaust, CAI intake, Stillen Slotted/Drilled Rotors, RB braided brake lines, BMR lowering springs, (reserved for definite future MODS)

06-29-2014, 07:46 AM	#100
DWALEX Drives: Currently 2016-2SS, Future ZL1/Z28 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Kansas Posts: 978	thanks to you for improve the thread __________________ ...First CAMARO (2SS/RS 2010)

07-13-2014, 04:00 PM	#101
murrayjw Drives: 2010 SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Omaha Posts: 46 View My Garage	I’m doing the MyLink upgrade and door switches at the same time on a 2010. I stopped by Ofer’s shop in AZ and he gave me the connectors (thanks Ofer!) The yellow (dimming wire) and black (ground) wires are short (5”). I assume this is because they are spliced somewhere within the existing wire harness inside the door. The other two wires are long enough to go out the door. I assume that I run the two long wires thru the door and connect to the pink/black and orange/black at the HVAC/Radio connector and the two short wires splice into the yellow and black wires on the window switch within the door. __________________ 2010 SS/RS born Sep, 2010, custom graphics, Whipple 2.9L blower @9.5psi, complete stainless steel E85 compatiable fuel system (FIC 1000 cc injectors, FORE fuel pressure regulator, twin GSS 420 fuel pumps & 5/8" SS fuel lines), 1-7/8 Kook long tube headers, Corsa Catback exhaust, CAI, Spec Stage 3+ racing clutch, A-pillar pod w/AEM wideband and boost gauges , and a custom HP Tune running on E85 fuel--> 682 RWHP and 587 ft-lbs torque! Last edited by murrayjw; 07-13-2014 at 07:45 PM.

07-14-2014, 07:50 PM	#105
murrayjw Drives: 2010 SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Omaha Posts: 46 View My Garage	is it just me pr is getting through the boot a huge problem? __________________ 2010 SS/RS born Sep, 2010, custom graphics, Whipple 2.9L blower @9.5psi, complete stainless steel E85 compatiable fuel system (FIC 1000 cc injectors, FORE fuel pressure regulator, twin GSS 420 fuel pumps & 5/8" SS fuel lines), 1-7/8 Kook long tube headers, Corsa Catback exhaust, CAI, Spec Stage 3+ racing clutch, A-pillar pod w/AEM wideband and boost gauges , and a custom HP Tune running on E85 fuel--> 682 RWHP and 587 ft-lbs torque!

07-14-2014, 10:21 PM	#107
murrayjw Drives: 2010 SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Omaha Posts: 46 View My Garage	I did the driver side door so far. When I lock using the new switch, the door locks then immediately unlocks. Same results when using remote. The passenger side responds normally from the remote. Any ideas? __________________ 2010 SS/RS born Sep, 2010, custom graphics, Whipple 2.9L blower @9.5psi, complete stainless steel E85 compatiable fuel system (FIC 1000 cc injectors, FORE fuel pressure regulator, twin GSS 420 fuel pumps & 5/8" SS fuel lines), 1-7/8 Kook long tube headers, Corsa Catback exhaust, CAI, Spec Stage 3+ racing clutch, A-pillar pod w/AEM wideband and boost gauges , and a custom HP Tune running on E85 fuel--> 682 RWHP and 587 ft-lbs torque!

07-14-2014, 06:49 PM	#103
NOVAK Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: California the Republic Posts: 521	Can I hook up the wires without removing the radio? I just installed an aftermarket stereo with Scosche kit and I do not want to remove the center console, radio, and dash kit to tap the wires unless absolutely necessary. I plan to upgrade my door speakers and dynamat the inside of my doors so I was going to install my new door pulls with lock switches and run the wires through the door to complete that portion of the install. I'm just curious to know if I can tap into the wiring where the BCM is located? I don't know the location of the BCM. I can see in the diagrams that the radio/HVAC wiring connects to the BCM so just wondering if I need to remove the radio or not?

07-14-2014, 10:46 PM	#108
DWALEX Drives: Currently 2016-2SS, Future ZL1/Z28 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Kansas Posts: 978	check the wiring connector pin1 = LED backlight dimming pin2 = lock pin 3 = unlock pin 4 = ground __________________ ...First CAMARO (2SS/RS 2010)

01-18-2018, 08:31 PM	#110
lneville220 Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Illinois Posts: 24	Why? Why do you need new door panels? Why can’t you just cut a whole out and clean it up, use the new switches. What am I missing? I don’t understand why you need a whole new door panel.