HKE LSX 427 with D1SC is in!!! but WTFO?

[grocerygetter]

since you are in N TX...you may just take the joker to ADM and let them work it out...just sayin. Hopin' the best for ya sir.

[PwrAdikt]

Is it the older style nw? I had this issue quite often with my old one. Swapped to new style and also noticed wires in the connector were pulled out. Replaced the connector and didnt have any issues after. Livernois pulled that tb off and went with an ls3 base they recommended cause they'd rather not even tune nw 102's.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by Boostpatrol

I had this issue happen to a brand new ECU. P0606 with any sort of abuse to the car and this was with a large cammed LS2. The ECU just needs to have the hex file re wrote, however, only a certain number of people that are invited to GM headquarters for tune brain storm sessions know how to do this

I dont suppose you are one of those people

[BullF-16]

Well apparently there is a fix for the bad rpm signal from the tach adapter...somewhere along the 20ft of non shielded wiring the rpm signal may be getting corrupted and the PCM has issue with it. If the capacitor that autometer is sending does not help, an option is to move the tach adapter to the front of the car vs all the way back in the trunk. this will significantly reduce the length of wire and possible fix the problem....nothing else to try

Aeromotive also says we could do away with the tach adapter and go with a vacuum hobbs switch which could command the controller and pump to full speed when going from vacuum to boost. seems logical to me

[ayousef]

Originally Posted by BullF-16

Well apparently there is a fix for the bad rpm signal from the tach adapter...somewhere along the 20ft of non shielded wiring the rpm signal may be getting corrupted and the PCM has issue with it. If the capacitor that autometer is sending does not help, an option is to move the tach adapter to the front of the car vs all the way back in the trunk. this will significantly reduce the length of wire and possible fix the problem....nothing else to try

Aeromotive also says we could do away with the tach adapter and go with a vacuum hobbs switch which could command the controller and pump to full speed when going from vacuum to boost. seems logical to me

Im thinking there was another company that does the tach adapter? maybe MSD? Im gonna check how its wired on my car.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by ayousef

Im thinking there was another company that does the tach adapter? maybe MSD? Im gonna check how its wired on my car.

yes, its an MSD. I dont have the part number but all the wiring is the same as the Autometer. here is a good install article on the 5th gen. but notice on the 8th photo down you can see a green capacitor wired into the tach adapter. Nowhere in this article does it mention this nor is it included. I do know that after troubleshooting with Autometer and determining that the RPM signal was bad that autometer sent my shop this capacitor. This is what we are waiting for.

We installed the tach adapter in the trunk vs on the firewall. I wonder if using non shielded wire and running the RPM signal from the pink coil wire at each harness on the motor all the way back to the trunk is causing some degradation in the clear information the tach adapter and pump controller need.

Here is the article
http://www.autometer.com/techinfo_ne...=1&pg=1&aid=10

[JLE58]

My guess is they want you to place the capacitor from the signal wire to the auto meters ground and use it as a filter?

[stanwilliams]

Aeromotive also says we could do away with the tach adapter and go with a vacuum hobbs switch which could command the controller and pump to full speed when going from vacuum to boost. seems logical to me

Seems to me boost would be a better trigger to turn up the pump anyway.

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Ok so I'm convinced this is a pride issue looks to me that SNL and Pat don't want to fess up and say okay Andy's right,go ahead and run one low voltage low-level signal wire to the attack input on the aeromotor controller that's all you have to do make it simple and your done please understand I'm not trying to say I'm the best around but I do have knowledge in this area more than most so just do the job get it finished.

[94guy]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

Ok so I'm convinced this is a pride issue looks to me that SNL and Pat don't want to fess up and say okay Andy's right,go ahead and run one low voltage low-level signal wire to the attack input on the aeromotor controller that's all you have to do make it simple and your done please understand I'm not trying to say I'm the best around but I do have knowledge in this area more than most so just do the job get it finished.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

Ok so I'm convinced this is a pride issue looks to me that SNL and Pat don't want to fess up and say okay Andy's right,go ahead and run one low voltage low-level signal wire to the attack input on the aeromotor controller that's all you have to do make it simple and your done please understand I'm not trying to say I'm the best around but I do have knowledge in this area more than most so just do the job get it finished.

SNL has been busting their hump trying to figure this out. They are a great shop and im sure will figure it out. I sent them you previous info and they will go that route is the new controller and capacitor dont work. This is what Aeromotive and Autometer both suggest. He does not have a local tuner who can go in the HP tuners or EFI live and make the changes.

Pat, my tuner insists he has done numerous 5th gens the same way and has never had issue. I think he is tired of hearing from me.

PM sent

[Steve@SNL/Monster Clutch]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

Ok so I'm convinced this is a pride issue looks to me that SNL and Pat don't want to fess up and say okay Andy's right,go ahead and run one low voltage low-level signal wire to the attack input on the aeromotor controller that's all you have to do make it simple and your done please understand I'm not trying to say I'm the best around but I do have knowledge in this area more than most so just do the job get it finished.

I'm working with Aeromotive to make their stuff work, period. If we skew from what they say and it winds up being faulty then the customer is stuck with a hunk of billet that does nothing but look pretty and Aeromotive telling him to go pound sand. I have no doubt you're giving sound advice, however, this is not what the manufacturer is asking us to do therefore we're not going to do that. Now, in the event Aeromotive tells us they're out of ideas we'll venture out to other things, right now we're just following their diagnostic procedures to ensure their continued support - and most importantly if the pump/controller fails due to something defective or what they asked us to do we're covered.

It has absolutely nothing at all to do with pride, this is by far not my first fuel system and surely won't be our last.

[Steve@SNL/Monster Clutch]

We've narrowed the issue down to the tach signal from the adapter, Autometer is convinced that we need to install a capacitor inline to correct the issue. I'd have rather used a MSD unit as I've never had an issue with one, but Autometer was recommended by the guys at Aeromotive and that's what Jim brought us.

We'll keep you guys updated on the progress, thanks for your advice Andy, we really do appreciate it.

[JLE58]

If they don't have to use the capacitor on all cars than it has to be the length and placement of the tach wire. If your getting noise it's because your running a tach signal to the back of the car 20 ft long I'm guessing right up against or in the same bundle as other wires which would be why you would need a shielded cable If noise is truly what the issue is. I would use a capacitor if I just ran 1000 ft of cable and didn't use shielded cable by mistake but for 20 ft I would pull it out and redo it with good cable. I'd run that by auto meter and see what they say.