Brake ducts - Page 13 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

rockrau · 02-28-2014, 05:10 PM

If you put heat to the bolts, REPLACE THEM!

JusticePete · 02-28-2014, 05:31 PM

FYI: All GM caliper bolts are TTY

Most GM service department re-use caliper bolts. I see them re-used track-side all the time. I like to replace them, but if I can't get my hands on new TTY caliper bolts I use LocTite. I have seen the results of a caliper coming loose at high speed. The caliper came loose, wedged between spokes and clevis, then sheared the clevis . The wheel wedged flat under the car and caused it to roll. It is a miracle the driver walked away.

LocTite and German spec gudentight or new TTY bolts torqued to GM spec.

AGM 1LE · 02-28-2014, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockrau

If you put heat to the bolts, REPLACE THEM!

I didn't do that, just tried to hulk it with the breaker bar then gave up and put the ducts in the grille.
I'm going to try again in the morning, if I don't get it I have 2 months of work travel until I can go at it again.

SSSoon · 03-06-2014, 08:17 AM

Well, that didn't work. Routing the 3 inch hose over top of the sway bar and inside of the front end link just results in the hose getting crushed. Hole in the top already after one month of driving around. See pic.

I am going to re-route the hose on the outside of the end link instead, and then route it around the inside of the fender liner. So, in the pic below, the hose will go to the left of the endlink rather than to the right where it currently goes. Have been testing it out and it looks like there will be no rubbing even with wheels fully turned. Will post some pics when done.

Here is pic of old setup where hose gets crushed. Heads up, this might be you too.

SSSoon · 03-06-2014, 08:55 AM

Here it is re-routed. This is with OEM 8 inch rims. Even though it looks like it is close in the second pic, it's not close to the tire at all - easily 2-3 inches there at full wheel lock. Strapped it to the sway bar and then attached it to the back of the fender liner. Looks great, no rubbing anticipated and no crushing. Sorry for crappy cell phone pix.

JusticePete · 03-06-2014, 09:44 AM

The first setup worked. The revised setup is new and improved ;-)

SSSoon · 03-06-2014, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The first setup worked. The revised setup is new and improved ;-)

Yup, everything is just a work in progress. Will take some shots next week after I get back from VIR to see if it is as clever a solution as I think it is... or not...

rockrau · 03-06-2014, 06:43 PM

Dropspeed · 03-06-2014, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSoon

Well, that didn't work. Routing the 3 inch hose over top of the sway bar and inside of the front end link just results in the hose getting crushed. Hole in the top already after one month of driving around. See pic.

I am going to re-route the hose on the outside of the end link instead, and then route it around the inside of the fender liner. So, in the pic below, the hose will go to the left of the endlink rather than to the right where it currently goes. Have been testing it out and it looks like there will be no rubbing even with wheels fully turned. Will post some pics when done.

Here is pic of old setup where hose gets crushed. Heads up, this might be you too.

That is the concern I had looking at all of the pictures routed that way....I am still determined to run mine a straight shot and have some ideas on how I am going to prevent damage to the hose when at full lock.

I wrapped up two other projects today (Intake install and door panel install) that have been cluttering my work bench/area so I am ready focus on the duct routing next...I have a month until my first track day this year so I need to get on it!............To be continued

Matt

SSSoon · 03-14-2014, 10:50 AM

Spent most of a weekend at VIR and the new setup works great. No rubbing, no damage, and I am hoping it cools the brakes, too

FYI a Vette guy I was talking to about this told me he used to warp a lot of rotors until he started taking a low-speed 5 minute drive around the grounds right after getting off the track. I guess if you just go straight to park the car, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper cools at a slower speed (or maybe even heats up if the rotors are really hot) than the rest of the rotor, and that can cause warping. Seems like a small investment to take care of the rotors, so I am doing that too from now on.

ssmike · 03-14-2014, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSoon

Spent most of a weekend at VIR and the new setup works great. No rubbing, no damage, and I am hoping it cools the brakes, too

FYI a Vette guy I was talking to about this told me he used to warp a lot of rotors until he started taking a low-speed 5 minute drive around the grounds right after getting off the track. I guess if you just go straight to park the car, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper cools at a slower speed (or maybe even heats up if the rotors are really hot) than the rest of the rotor, and that can cause warping. Seems like a small investment to take care of the rotors, so I am doing that too from now on.

Good tip! Thanks!

Dropspeed · 03-14-2014, 12:30 PM

I have been doing the paddock drive for many years.....The worst part is just picking up all the rocks on the tires right after a session but we saw a signifigant temp decrees vs parking the car right after a session. (can't remember the temps now as it was years ago) This was just with a handheld temp gun...but it was good enough for me.

-Matt

driser · 03-18-2014, 05:59 PM

Well spent the weekend running at Road Atlanta for the first test of the brake ducts. I have no idea if they cooled or not, (nothing to check temps etc). After pulling the wheels tonight to change back to street pads, I noticed the tubing collapsed a little in one spot. I have mine routed the same as SSMike and the only place that there is an issue is where the tube runs between the steering bar (top) and the sway bar (bottom). It is probably closed down about 1/3, with no tears or any real damage. I can not see any better way to route, so I made some adjustments to try and pull it tighter to the sway bar to see if that helps.

I put these on to try and solve an issue that I had the last time out, which was the first time I had switched to DTC-30 pads for the track. I was getting significant shaking in the steering wheel under the heavy braking at the end of the long straight (Road Atlanta), which I thought might be due to heat. The shake was like rotor warp, but when they were cooled down they were fine. No issues at all with the street pads (HPS), so thought I would try the brake cooling to see if that solved it. Well no better with the cooling ducts, but I can't believe are not cooling at least some.

I am now thinking that there is enough of a compound difference with the street pad and the track pad to be causing the issue. I am probably going to either go to a dedicated rotor/pad for the track and a dedicated rotor/pad for the street, or pull the trigger on the 6 piston calipers.

My thoughts on the brake ducts is that they certainly can't hurt, and most likely are helping some.

Synner · 03-18-2014, 06:16 PM

I has the same weird feeling with the DTC's kind of pulsing like they weren't biting very well and took more pedal force to make things happen. I will be ditching them after they wear out for something with a more aggressive initial and linear bite.

03-06-2014, 08:17 AM	#172
SSSoon Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 997	Well, that didn't work. Routing the 3 inch hose over top of the sway bar and inside of the front end link just results in the hose getting crushed. Hole in the top already after one month of driving around. See pic. I am going to re-route the hose on the outside of the end link instead, and then route it around the inside of the fender liner. So, in the pic below, the hose will go to the left of the endlink rather than to the right where it currently goes. Have been testing it out and it looks like there will be no rubbing even with wheels fully turned. Will post some pics when done. Here is pic of old setup where hose gets crushed. Heads up, this might be you too. Attached Images __________________ Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts.

03-06-2014, 08:55 AM	#173
SSSoon Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 997	Here it is re-routed. This is with OEM 8 inch rims. Even though it looks like it is close in the second pic, it's not close to the tire at all - easily 2-3 inches there at full wheel lock. Strapped it to the sway bar and then attached it to the back of the fender liner. Looks great, no rubbing anticipated and no crushing. Sorry for crappy cell phone pix. Attached Images __________________ Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts.

03-14-2014, 10:50 AM	#178
SSSoon Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 997	Spent most of a weekend at VIR and the new setup works great. No rubbing, no damage, and I am hoping it cools the brakes, too FYI a Vette guy I was talking to about this told me he used to warp a lot of rotors until he started taking a low-speed 5 minute drive around the grounds right after getting off the track. I guess if you just go straight to park the car, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper cools at a slower speed (or maybe even heats up if the rotors are really hot) than the rest of the rotor, and that can cause warping. Seems like a small investment to take care of the rotors, so I am doing that too from now on. __________________ Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts.

03-14-2014, 12:30 PM	#180
Dropspeed 2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28 Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI Posts: 2,440	I have been doing the paddock drive for many years.....The worst part is just picking up all the rocks on the tires right after a session but we saw a signifigant temp decrees vs parking the car right after a session. (can't remember the temps now as it was years ago) This was just with a handheld temp gun...but it was good enough for me. -Matt __________________ My 1LE Build/Journal : http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=351990

03-18-2014, 05:59 PM	#181
driser Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Monroe, Georgia Posts: 717	Road Atlanta- brake duct test Well spent the weekend running at Road Atlanta for the first test of the brake ducts. I have no idea if they cooled or not, (nothing to check temps etc). After pulling the wheels tonight to change back to street pads, I noticed the tubing collapsed a little in one spot. I have mine routed the same as SSMike and the only place that there is an issue is where the tube runs between the steering bar (top) and the sway bar (bottom). It is probably closed down about 1/3, with no tears or any real damage. I can not see any better way to route, so I made some adjustments to try and pull it tighter to the sway bar to see if that helps. I put these on to try and solve an issue that I had the last time out, which was the first time I had switched to DTC-30 pads for the track. I was getting significant shaking in the steering wheel under the heavy braking at the end of the long straight (Road Atlanta), which I thought might be due to heat. The shake was like rotor warp, but when they were cooled down they were fine. No issues at all with the street pads (HPS), so thought I would try the brake cooling to see if that solved it. Well no better with the cooling ducts, but I can't believe are not cooling at least some. I am now thinking that there is enough of a compound difference with the street pad and the track pad to be causing the issue. I am probably going to either go to a dedicated rotor/pad for the track and a dedicated rotor/pad for the street, or pull the trigger on the 6 piston calipers. My thoughts on the brake ducts is that they certainly can't hurt, and most likely are helping some.

02-28-2014, 05:10 PM	#169
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 533	If you put heat to the bolts, REPLACE THEM!

02-28-2014, 05:31 PM	#170
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	FYI: All GM caliper bolts are TTY Most GM service department re-use caliper bolts. I see them re-used track-side all the time. I like to replace them, but if I can't get my hands on new TTY caliper bolts I use LocTite. I have seen the results of a caliper coming loose at high speed. The caliper came loose, wedged between spokes and clevis, then sheared the clevis . The wheel wedged flat under the car and caused it to roll. It is a miracle the driver walked away. LocTite and German spec gudentight or new TTY bolts torqued to GM spec.

03-06-2014, 09:44 AM	#174
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	The first setup worked. The revised setup is new and improved ;-)

03-06-2014, 06:43 PM	#176
rockrau Drives: 2010 2ss red LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: perkasie pa Posts: 533

03-18-2014, 06:16 PM	#182
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	I has the same weird feeling with the DTC's kind of pulsing like they weren't biting very well and took more pedal force to make things happen. I will be ditching them after they wear out for something with a more aggressive initial and linear bite.