415 stroker and 10 psi from a supercharger good or bad idea

[ls7camaro]

My tuner wants me to have my engine stroked as well as supercharged at about 10psi.I also have arh headers, getting new heads, new cam, etc. How long will the engine hold stroking it compared to not stroking the engine. I am not looking for a race car, just something that is fast as hell on the street, but also something that im going to struggle for traction. The supercharger is a twin screw too.

[pharmd]

Use all forged components, select pistons that achieve the desired compression ratio for that boost level, use head studs and a 0.51 gasket...at 10psi it should last a long long time.

[speedster]

Originally Posted by ls7camaro

My tuner wants me to have my engine stroked as well as supercharged at about 10psi.I also have arh headers, getting new heads, new cam, etc. How long will the engine hold stroking it compared to not stroking the engine. I am not looking for a race car, just something that is fast as hell on the street, but also something that im going to struggle for traction. The supercharger is a twin screw too.

By your name, are you using an LS7 block ? The longer stroke is pretty weak at the bottom of the cylinder sleeves on the LS3 & LS7 for FI applications. We have split quite a few blocks...but if you are truly going to limit it to 10 psi you should be OK. Don't over-rev it.

[ls7camaro]

no i decided to keep the ls3

[ls7camaro]

well i just got the price 12-15,000 dollars to stroke it, forget that, haha, i will stick to the supercharger. He said the stock block is fine at 10psi, but wouldn't it be better to just put new rods, pistons, etc for added reliability?

[tones2SS]

Originally Posted by pharmd

Use all forged components, select pistons that achieve the desired compression ratio for that boost level, use head studs and a 0.51 gasket...at 10psi it should last a long long time.

What he said.
Forged componets.

[vsgls1]

Yes, forge the internals, lower the compression and it should be fun.

[ls7camaro]

yea, it should be fun trying to get traction, haha

[speedster]

Originally Posted by ls7camaro

well i just got the price 12-15,000 dollars to stroke it, forget that, haha, i will stick to the supercharger. He said the stock block is fine at 10psi, but wouldn't it be better to just put new rods, pistons, etc for added reliability?

The LS3 is safer with the stock stroke and more boost. Just change the pistons and rods. Good pistons - JE forged blower. Good intermediate rods - Callies Compstar.

Here is the link to your earlier thread on this topic:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23212

and here:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...?t=2933&page=5

and supporting data:

"Yes. The LSX block has the same external dimensions as the others, hence the "LS" designation.

Some additional info for you ls7camaro from a post a while back:

To get an LS3 to support 800 crank hp is pretty cheap, but you have to be willing to yank the engine. Change the pistons to a JE (or comparable) forged in the 8.0 to 8.8 range (your preference) and change the rods to Callies Compstar (or comparable). Put it back together and add the boost of your choice. The crank is cast, but like a Scat 9000 undercut and with fillets. Not forged, but tougher than people think. The LS3 is a 6 bolt aluminum block, with 4 bolts per cylinder clamping so past 800 hp, they may "leak" without O-ringing. In addition, pushing it past this level you may run into problems of spliting the sleeves and the material behind the sleeves. [Note: this is a problem with the LS7 also - 5 brand new blocks split this way]

To go bulletproof, an iron LSX block (6 bolts per cylinder) or if you really need aluminum, the new RHS aluminum block. Add Oliver billet rods, change to a Dragonslayer or better crank and use the same JE pistons. Bottom end now good to well beyond 2,000 hp and this has been verified on the dyno. Took the bottom apart with 90 pulls over 1,500 hp on one of these setups and the bearings showed NO signs of wear. Looked like they were just put in."

for your easy reference.

[ls7camaro]

but then again, he just said it will cost close to the same to forge the internals, without the stroker, so i may get the stroker. But its not a race car, so that much power might just be a pain. Especially traction wise.

[ls7camaro]

yea, they are easy reference, especially because i started those threads, haha i just want it to be very reliable as well as powerful

[speedster]

Originally Posted by ls7camaro

but then again, he just said it will cost close to the same to forge the internals, without the stroker, so i may get the stroker. But its not a race car, so that much power might just be a pain. Especially traction wise.

If he wants to charge you 12 -15K to change the pistons/rings and rods, RUN AWAY.

Hey whatever you choose, looks like it will be a handful. Enjoy it.

One other thing from GM guys - the rearend should be good for around 650 RWHP. The first thing that will probably let loose is the 2 pinion posi. As long as you don't put on slicks you will be OK.

One other thing - did you order the auto or the manual ?

I like your phrase "struggle for traction". That would be an understatement.

[tones2SS]

Originally Posted by ls7camaro

but then again, he just said it will cost close to the same to forge the internals, without the stroker, so i may get the stroker. But its not a race car, so that much power might just be a pain. Especially traction wise.

Stroker with the supercharger? Or just stroke the LS3?
I think traction will be a slight problem either way. Keep us posted.

[ls7camaro]

stroke the ls3