09-02-2014, 11:18 AM | #1 |
War Horse Pilot
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Royal Purple vs. Mobile 1 vs. Penzoil Platinum
I tried searcing before, but too many results and not really what I am looking for.
What oil do you all prefer? I know I have free oil changes for 2 years from the dealer, but I want to change this today based on break in of just over 1600 miles now just to be safe. I used to run Mobile 1 in my 99 Formula, it used some (before catch can craze) but it used less Royal Purple. I have also heard good things on the Penzoil Platinum (right one?). Which do you all prefer to run. I know the dealer will likely use Mobile 1 if I pay the difference, but just trying to get an idea on what between those three you guys/gals prefer. To clarify, i am not racing this car, just crusing with the occassional spirited pass or two and for passing/merging into traffic. My racing days are past me. LOL Too old to go breaking a lot of stuff. Thanks DWH |
09-02-2014, 12:08 PM | #2 |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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Not to offend...but, oh man not another "which is better" oil thread.
Some will say NONE of the above, others will have there opinions. I am sure someone will like a few informative links for ya. I used to run Royal Purple religiously, then I had an engine builder tell me of all the sludge deposits and oil failure related issues he had with Royal Purple....he recommends Joe Gibbs oil. I choose not to fuss with it and just run Mobil 1. Once the SC and cam go in I'll run Joe Gibbs oil....I have yet to hear one bad thing about that oil....I have heard all kinds of arguments about all the others, but none have said anything bad about it. At least if they have I've missed it Good luck
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
09-02-2014, 12:25 PM | #3 |
War Horse Pilot
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No offense taken, and I hestitated to do the thread for that reason... I just really have been out of the game a while and I know what worked good for me back in 1999-2001.
My dad runs Royal Purple in his Charger RT, but maybe I should have him switch back to Mobile 1 then also. I appreciate the response. Thanks |
09-02-2014, 12:30 PM | #4 |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
09-02-2014, 12:33 PM | #5 |
I believe all 3 are good (4 including Joe Gibbs).
Oil analysis results have often reported higher iron readings in GM engines using Mobil 1. There is a forum dedicated to the oil topic with many oil analysis reports for your review. I had a cam installed earlier this year and the engine builder insisted I use only Royal Purple HPS. The shop just cut the oil filter open for analysis and all was well, no metal wear particles in filter, with 6,000 miles on the Comp Cam using RP HPS oil. Prior to the cam I used Pennzoil Ultra. |
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09-02-2014, 02:50 PM | #6 |
Drives: 73 VETTE ,, 05 2500hd diesel,14 1LE Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Left lane PHOENIX AZ
Posts: 2,626
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For you bargin hunters don't overlook Mobil 1 , 0-40 Euro formula . Ain't gonna beat it for $4.50 a quart / $22.56 5 quart jug.
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OLD GUY FLYING FAST AND LOW
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09-02-2014, 08:18 PM | #7 |
Drives: bicycle Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Digging for oil
Posts: 375
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I like to use AMSOIL go figure. ..
Get a good group 3 or a 4. |
09-02-2014, 09:06 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Longview, Tx
Posts: 797
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I run Amsoil Signature Series in my Cammed 2010 SS. Its good for 25k or one year, whichever occurs first. I change it every 9 month to a year. I have owned the car for a little over 2 years and have only put about 12k on it. So far no problems at all. I also use Amsoil filter.
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TSP 1 7/8 LT, ADM Race Cold Air w/ Race Scoop, GPI SS3 LS3 Cam, Powerbond UD, 3.91 Gears, GPI Posi Mod.
498RWHP/451RWTQ |
09-02-2014, 09:12 PM | #9 | |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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Quote:
I mean I know you just said that but whats the oil look like?...sheesh I feel like a little kid lol
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
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09-02-2014, 09:19 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Longview, Tx
Posts: 797
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Amsoil is very good oil. I haven't had any issues whatsoever. So far I have changed it twice with their oil since I have owned the car. Some people say I should run the ZRod but no more than I am home to drive it, I think the signature series is just fine. The Signature Series is good for 25k or one year and the filter is good for 15k iirc so I'm always on the safe side of both. I take it to get changed as that is easier to have the oil disposed of. It costs me about $120-$130 per oil change but it isn't as bad as it sounds if you factor in all the people that get their oil changed every 3k at $30-$40 each time.
__________________
TSP 1 7/8 LT, ADM Race Cold Air w/ Race Scoop, GPI SS3 LS3 Cam, Powerbond UD, 3.91 Gears, GPI Posi Mod.
498RWHP/451RWTQ |
09-02-2014, 09:21 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Longview, Tx
Posts: 797
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Quote:
You can probably help these guys out better than I can.
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TSP 1 7/8 LT, ADM Race Cold Air w/ Race Scoop, GPI SS3 LS3 Cam, Powerbond UD, 3.91 Gears, GPI Posi Mod.
498RWHP/451RWTQ |
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09-02-2014, 10:54 PM | #12 |
C5 Best Gen
Drives: 2015 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: East TN.
Posts: 229
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Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro oil here. I like it for the extra zinc/phos. Won't use anything else.
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09-03-2014, 04:26 PM | #13 |
Drives: '14 2SS/RS Vert 6M/KTU/NPP/DTA/ARH Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,826
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OK. Here's the drill.
First of all, take advantage of your "included" (please don't call them free) oil changes from your dealer. The dealer will use Dexos1 which means ACDelco semi-syn or equal. This is fine because you're going to do your changes early to get the break-in contaminants out. After those four oil changes, start DIYing with the synthetic of your choice. There's no need to spend more on the boutique oils. M1 and PP are fine. I buy M1 at Costco for $4.19/qt. You find your own deal. Stick with the manufacturer's recommended weight which is 5W-30. On your first DIY OCI, run your OLM down to 0%, take a sample and send it off to an oil analysis lab such as Blackstone. Pay the extra for TBN because that's the measurement you really want to see. This will give you a baseline for the proper change interval. You may be able to go longer than the OLM indicates because if you're not racing, the 6.2L V8 is a lightly stressed engine at only 68hp/L. Do this and you will KNOW exactly how oil wears in your engine. Rinse and repeat.
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09-03-2014, 06:11 PM | #14 |
War Horse Pilot
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Thanks everyone!
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