2014 1LE w/NPP & Mild2Wild - My Review - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Mark T · 06-09-2014, 03:35 PM

Finally had some time to experiment with this.

This is my final post on it as it is where it stands.

1 - Not necessarily pleased with the way the unit is grounded. But after digging into it again, it is the easiest way to do this. I dont like the concept of pushing the grounding eyelet under the lip of the grounding screw. This creates a gap that may potentially remove some of the grounding path at the point where the screw compresses into the structure. But I considered the minimal current the m2w module consumes, as well as the system ground spade location, and determined that if the ground screw is suffeciently tightened with your 10mm wrench that the ground connection resistance would be minimalized and not compromised. So I am ok with this.

2 - The "trickle-drain" issue. My issue was that the module is always powered through the RDO F3 fuse and that when stored for winter months, may provide unnecessary drain on the battery. I pulled the m2w module harness and began taking voltage measurements on the fuse block with the ignition on as well as off and key removed. What I found is the exaust and radio fuses remain powered regardless of the position of the ignition switch. Now, while this is a no-brainer for the radio as memories need to be retained, I wondered why the exaust fuse remained powered. This I found is because the automobile computer switches the grounding to the exaust solenoids, on and off, depending on the state of the computer demands. If the ground to the exaust is not connected, then then the flaps are open. If the ground to the solenoids is connected via the computer, then the flap solenoids are fully energized and closed. This is why pulling the F8 fuse works in keeping them open. The circuit is never completed to the solenoids. I suspect the solenoids are spring loaded for the open position.

Anyway, this is where I am leaving it. The way it was originally installed per the m2w instructions. There are no other variations unless I wish to find in the fuseblock in the trunk a fuse source that is in fact switched with the ignition. Maybe for another time.

In closing, for those that wish to keep their flaps closed all the time, it appears that you will have to find the ground path to the solenoids, and hard wire them to ground. Keep in mind though that since the solenoids are in fact always hot, this will drain the battery quite quickly while parked and the ignition off. I dont recommend this. Unless you pursue that other more expensive module mentioned elsewhere in this thread, that is the options available for that. I wont be pursuing either of those though as I do not have a desire to operate that way.

Hope this is some help for those interested.

-Mark-

Cool1LE · 06-09-2014, 03:41 PM

Thanks for taking the time for the write up and the voltage testing, sounds like the drain is minimal (I store during the winter) and a good tender will more than suffice to keep the battery nice and charged.

Mark T · 06-09-2014, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cool1LE

Thanks for taking the time for the write up and the voltage testing, sounds like the drain is minimal (I store during the winter) and a good tender will more than suffice to keep the battery nice and charged.

Your very welcome.

And per the m2w instructions, when you are moth-balling your car for extended periods, like winter for example, just be sure to have the m2w module switched to normal operating mode (m2w "OFF"). This is the minimum drain on the battery and will not pose a problem for 4+ months. (never a problem if you use a battery maintainer). But if you leave the m2w in "ON" mode, the drain may be a problem after your car is sitting for 3 to 4 weeks. (again, never a problem if you use a battery maintainer).

Mark T · 06-09-2014, 08:22 PM

And just to add, it appears the solonoids are grounded via the R2 relay located in the fuse block in the trunk. If one were willing to discover how to make the flaps stay closed all the time, one could look there for a solution I would think.

Mark T · 06-09-2014, 09:04 PM

And sorry, to add again...

If someone were to be so kind to forward to me or post an electrical schematic that includes both the fuse block and NPP exaust circuits, I could be inclined to design a solution that covers all 3 states desired as well as solutions to concerns I have reflected on, including part sources to make it happen.

I have looked online but havent found a schematic yet.

Thanks in advance.

shippingguy · 06-09-2014, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark T

Your very welcome.

And per the m2w instructions, when you are moth-balling your car for extended periods, like winter for example, just be sure to have the m2w module switched to normal operating mode (m2w "OFF"). This is the minimum drain on the battery and will not pose a problem for 4+ months. (never a problem if you use a battery maintainer). But if you leave the m2w in "ON" mode, the drain may be a problem after your car is sitting for 3 to 4 weeks. (again, never a problem if you use a battery maintainer).

When you say OFF mode that would mean Mild2Wild being set to Non Factory Setting, correct(OFF)? Because when you press ON with the remote then the system runs as Factory Mode. So are they saying if the car is going to sit for a period of time you have it in Factory Mode(ON) on the remote control or Mild2Wild Mode(OFF) on the remote?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark T · 06-10-2014, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shippingguy

When you say OFF mode that would mean Mild2Wild being set to Non Factory Setting, correct(OFF)? Because when you press ON with the remote then the system runs as Factory Mode. So are they saying if the car is going to sit for a period of time you have it in Factory Mode(ON) on the remote control or Mild2Wild Mode(OFF) on the remote?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now that was confusing lol.

Ok. I used the on-off logic from the instructions for the m2w. I will re-read it again, but I am at work atm and I will assume for the moment they were referring to the mode that the supplied remotes offer as the buttons are labelled on/off.

Will get back to you later.

ST1LE · 06-10-2014, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark T

And sorry, to add again...

If someone were to be so kind to forward to me or post an electrical schematic that includes both the fuse block and NPP exaust circuits, I could be inclined to design a solution that covers all 3 states desired as well as solutions to concerns I have reflected on, including part sources to make it happen.

I have looked online but havent found a schematic yet.

Thanks in advance.

This has actually already been done, if I catch your meaning correctly. Check out the link below from the DIY section.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=npp

Mark T · 06-10-2014, 09:33 AM

Ok, that makes a bit more sense than just me assuming. The factory schematic in the second link on that post at least helps to explain the functionality.

Although I am not seeing how the Fuel Pump Control Module can modulate the R2 relay regarding RPM responce, at least that explains the all-time B+ connection to the F8 fuse.

Gives me some food for thought.

markgws6 · 06-10-2014, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark T

And sorry, to add again...

If someone were to be so kind to forward to me or post an electrical schematic that includes both the fuse block and NPP exaust circuits, I could be inclined to design a solution that covers all 3 states desired as well as solutions to concerns I have reflected on, including part sources to make it happen.

I have looked online but havent found a schematic yet.

Thanks in advance.

Is Chevrolet listening? Make 3 modes for us!! :-)

HELLsx · 04-27-2016, 04:03 PM

Mark....

Thank you SO MUCH!!!

Im just back from picking up my M2W set up and when i opened up the instructions.... Ohly schnitz!!! I tought this was made in 'Murica?? Well... If it was, the instructions sure dont seem to have been!!!

Yeah, it was not super easy to understand... And to have the title say "ZL-1" modification and nothing about if its the same for SS camaro's etc didnt help clearing things up...

What do i do? Search on C5 of course!! BoomYa!!! Found it right away!!

Its now in the car and LOL!!! My neighbourg came out to check out what i was doing!!! Lol!! Seems it works fine!!

Just wanted to drop in and say thanks for the light on the subject!! It REALLY eased my afternoon and now im going to try it out right away!!

'Later!!!

06-09-2014, 03:35 PM	#29
Mark T American Gold Whisperer Drives: 2014 White 1LE 2SS/RS/NPP/Rec/Nav Join Date: May 2014 Location: Northern Utah Posts: 838	Finally had some time to experiment with this. This is my final post on it as it is where it stands. 1 - Not necessarily pleased with the way the unit is grounded. But after digging into it again, it is the easiest way to do this. I dont like the concept of pushing the grounding eyelet under the lip of the grounding screw. This creates a gap that may potentially remove some of the grounding path at the point where the screw compresses into the structure. But I considered the minimal current the m2w module consumes, as well as the system ground spade location, and determined that if the ground screw is suffeciently tightened with your 10mm wrench that the ground connection resistance would be minimalized and not compromised. So I am ok with this. 2 - The "trickle-drain" issue. My issue was that the module is always powered through the RDO F3 fuse and that when stored for winter months, may provide unnecessary drain on the battery. I pulled the m2w module harness and began taking voltage measurements on the fuse block with the ignition on as well as off and key removed. What I found is the exaust and radio fuses remain powered regardless of the position of the ignition switch. Now, while this is a no-brainer for the radio as memories need to be retained, I wondered why the exaust fuse remained powered. This I found is because the automobile computer switches the grounding to the exaust solenoids, on and off, depending on the state of the computer demands. If the ground to the exaust is not connected, then then the flaps are open. If the ground to the solenoids is connected via the computer, then the flap solenoids are fully energized and closed. This is why pulling the F8 fuse works in keeping them open. The circuit is never completed to the solenoids. I suspect the solenoids are spring loaded for the open position. Anyway, this is where I am leaving it. The way it was originally installed per the m2w instructions. There are no other variations unless I wish to find in the fuseblock in the trunk a fuse source that is in fact switched with the ignition. Maybe for another time. In closing, for those that wish to keep their flaps closed all the time, it appears that you will have to find the ground path to the solenoids, and hard wire them to ground. Keep in mind though that since the solenoids are in fact always hot, this will drain the battery quite quickly while parked and the ignition off. I dont recommend this. Unless you pursue that other more expensive module mentioned elsewhere in this thread, that is the options available for that. I wont be pursuing either of those though as I do not have a desire to operate that way. Hope this is some help for those interested. -Mark- __________________

06-09-2014, 08:22 PM	#32
Mark T American Gold Whisperer Drives: 2014 White 1LE 2SS/RS/NPP/Rec/Nav Join Date: May 2014 Location: Northern Utah Posts: 838	And just to add, it appears the solonoids are grounded via the R2 relay located in the fuse block in the trunk. If one were willing to discover how to make the flaps stay closed all the time, one could look there for a solution I would think. __________________

06-09-2014, 09:04 PM	#33
Mark T American Gold Whisperer Drives: 2014 White 1LE 2SS/RS/NPP/Rec/Nav Join Date: May 2014 Location: Northern Utah Posts: 838	And sorry, to add again... If someone were to be so kind to forward to me or post an electrical schematic that includes both the fuse block and NPP exaust circuits, I could be inclined to design a solution that covers all 3 states desired as well as solutions to concerns I have reflected on, including part sources to make it happen. I have looked online but havent found a schematic yet. Thanks in advance. __________________

06-10-2014, 09:33 AM	#37
Mark T American Gold Whisperer Drives: 2014 White 1LE 2SS/RS/NPP/Rec/Nav Join Date: May 2014 Location: Northern Utah Posts: 838	Ok, that makes a bit more sense than just me assuming. The factory schematic in the second link on that post at least helps to explain the functionality. Although I am not seeing how the Fuel Pump Control Module can modulate the R2 relay regarding RPM responce, at least that explains the all-time B+ connection to the F8 fuse. Gives me some food for thought. __________________

04-27-2016, 04:03 PM	#39
HELLsx Drives: 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Montreal Posts: 161	Mark.... Thank you SO MUCH!!! Im just back from picking up my M2W set up and when i opened up the instructions.... Ohly schnitz!!! I tought this was made in 'Murica?? Well... If it was, the instructions sure dont seem to have been!!! Yeah, it was not super easy to understand... And to have the title say "ZL-1" modification and nothing about if its the same for SS camaro's etc didnt help clearing things up... What do i do? Search on C5 of course!! BoomYa!!! Found it right away!! Its now in the car and LOL!!! My neighbourg came out to check out what i was doing!!! Lol!! Seems it works fine!! Just wanted to drop in and say thanks for the light on the subject!! It REALLY eased my afternoon and now im going to try it out right away!! 'Later!!! __________________ BOUGHT THE LAST avail. 2015 1LE in Canada!!! Signed March 3rd 2016. Shippig from British Columbia to Montreal for delivery. 2SS-RS-1LE. Exhaust (NPP), Recaro's(AYZ), Navigation, Heads UP display, Boston acoustic (UHQ), Rear view camera, Sun roof (CF5) ...(hey, it was there...), Opt Gas cap (VQL), Optionnal carpet mats (VYW), rear cargo net (W2D). RS package (WRS) / with HID lightning and fogs (T4F and T3N). Yep..... It was kinda loaded!! :-) but it was the last 2015 1LE in Canada. I wanted white.... I got BLACK!!!! Lol!!!

06-09-2014, 03:41 PM	#30
Cool1LE Drives: 2014 Blk 2SS/1LE Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 340	Thanks for taking the time for the write up and the voltage testing, sounds like the drain is minimal (I store during the winter) and a good tender will more than suffice to keep the battery nice and charged.