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Old 11-10-2016, 07:18 PM   #15
alssiri

 
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Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10
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d-mob,
You don't need a radiator & for the pulleys just go with larger lower pulley to keep air charge heat to a minimum & add a coolant reservoir .
See Jannetty Racing road race packages are making power without changing heat exchanger or upper pulley.
Don't forget you will need boost-a-pump cause you will need more fuel.
Chiller is a great idea too.

Ahmad
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Whipple 2.9 with 3.2 Pulley, Weapon-X Stage 3 Cam, FIICHILLER ,LG Motorsports LT, Borla S type, ROTFAB Big Gulp, Big 3 Reservoir
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2012 ZL1 A6 (SOLD)
Forged 376 CI, LSA HeartBeat, Mast Medium Bore Heads & JDP ZLR Cam, ARH LT , MagnaFlow Resonated X + Borla Atak Catback, ADM 102mm Snout, CAI, NW102MM TB, ID850, Fore Triple Fuel Pump, MSD Wire's, Moroso CC.
Alky Control, FIICHILLER.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:12 PM   #16
STUNNAH
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Drives: 2013 ZL1 Black
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d-mob View Post
I want to install the below mods on my 2013 A6 ZL1:
Kooks LT headers with cats - mild 2 wild switch - 160 degree thermostat-ID 850cc - NGK spark plugs TR7ix - smaller supercharger pulley along with the tension pulley and solid isolator and belt.
The first question that must be answered is what the intent of you're is build???Do you intend to drag or road race the car???Do you just want more HP, etc???

If you're only seeking a slight increase in HP you don't need all the items you have listed...A simple stage 1 kit may be all that you need if your HP goal is to get near 600rwhp...Those items would be 2.55 upper pulley, solid isolator, plugs, 160 thermostat, belt, catch can and a tune...You don't need the mild to wild switch, which I think is a waste of $ when you can pull the fuse from the panel in the trunk to keep the cuts open...You don't need larger injectors at this point nor do you really need the headers, cats or tensioner, and I wouldn't see a need for any major cooling upgrade...Does your car currently over heat???

If you can tell us more about your goal for the car then additional info can be provided...Look at some of the sponsor websites and see what they have to offer Jannetty Racing, Lingenfelter Performance, and Vengeance Racing just to name a few that I'm familiar with...
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Old 11-11-2016, 05:23 AM   #17
d-mob
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STUNNAH View Post
The first question that must be answered is what the intent of you're is build???Do you intend to drag or road race the car???Do you just want more HP, etc???

If you're only seeking a slight increase in HP you don't need all the items you have listed...A simple stage 1 kit may be all that you need if your HP goal is to get near 600rwhp...Those items would be 2.55 upper pulley, solid isolator, plugs, 160 thermostat, belt, catch can and a tune...You don't need the mild to wild switch, which I think is a waste of $ when you can pull the fuse from the panel in the trunk to keep the cuts open...You don't need larger injectors at this point nor do you really need the headers, cats or tensioner, and I wouldn't see a need for any major cooling upgrade...Does your car currently over heat???

If you can tell us more about your goal for the car then additional info can be provided...Look at some of the sponsor websites and see what they have to offer Jannetty Racing, Lingenfelter Performance, and Vengeance Racing just to name a few that I'm familiar with...
You are right, my apologies I didn't mention my intent of this build.
What I'm going for is more horsepower while keeping the car under control, I don't want my car to be abnoxously loud or too powerful that it doesn't hook well on the road. I drive my car to and from work on a daily basis and I live 22 miles away from my workplace. I get really confused with mods as everyone of my friends or people I ask seem to have their own opinion on what I should put or not to put in my car. My current goal is to get 600whp but bare in mind I don't drag race the car I just have some fun with the throttle every now and then so I said it to my self i'll get some headers installed first then I heard that if I install headers I will lose boost. So I'm gonna install a lower pulley and injectors and Ngk spark plugs along with the 160thermostat and heat exchanger and a proper tune.

But I currently have 2 issues I need to deal with. First these freakin stock tires don't hook for nothing,last night I floored it and the car just couldn't decide if she wanted to go right or left and some message appeared on my HUD (I think it's something to do with traction) .
secondly and on the same day I gave it a good amount of gas but the speedometer just kept the speed at 70 Km/h and the engine was making a sound like it wanted to increase the speed but there was something preventing it from doing so. I asked my friend who is knowledgable about this engine and he told me this happens cause I ain't got no traction at all so the car just can't hook on the road.
I really love the car but I also wanna enjoy it, so what about semi slick tires I asked him, he told me it's a good option but don't think about installing them in the winter cause if they get wet as much as a drop of water your gonna spin.
I want to get the best tires for the car to hook but I'm confused about that as well. I'm really sorry for the long post guys , but all your replies are appreciated
I'm also sorry if I don't reply asap cause of the time difference.
Thank you all for your support and efforts.
Peace.
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:04 AM   #18
STUNNAH
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Drives: 2013 ZL1 Black
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,655
Quote:
Originally Posted by STUNNAH View Post
The first question that must be answered is what the intent of you're is build???Do you intend to drag or road race the car???Do you just want more HP, etc???

If you're only seeking a slight increase in HP you don't need all the items you have listed...A simple stage 1 kit may be all that you need if your HP goal is to get near 600rwhp...Those items would be 2.55 upper pulley, solid isolator, plugs, 160 thermostat, belt, catch can and a tune...You don't need the mild to wild switch, which I think is a waste of $ when you can pull the fuse from the panel in the trunk to keep the cuts open...You don't need larger injectors at this point nor do you really need the headers, cats or tensioner, and I wouldn't see a need for any major cooling upgrade...Does your car currently over heat???

If you can tell us more about your goal for the car then additional info can be provided...Look at some of the sponsor websites and see what they have to offer Jannetty Racing, Lingenfelter Performance, and Vengeance Racing just to name a few that I'm familiar with...
Quote:
Originally Posted by d-mob View Post
You are right, my apologies I didn't mention my intent of this build.
What I'm going for is more horsepower while keeping the car under control, I don't want my car to be abnoxously loud or too powerful that it doesn't hook well on the road. I drive my car to and from work on a daily basis and I live 22 miles away from my workplace. I get really confused with mods as everyone of my friends or people I ask seem to have their own opinion on what I should put or not to put in my car. My current goal is to get 600whp but bare in mind I don't drag race the car I just have some fun with the throttle every now and then so I said it to my self i'll get some headers installed first then I heard that if I install headers I will lose boost. So I'm gonna install a lower pulley and injectors and Ngk spark plugs along with the 160thermostat and heat exchanger and a proper tune.

But I currently have 2 issues I need to deal with. First these freakin stock tires don't hook for nothing,last night I floored it and the car just couldn't decide if she wanted to go right or left and some message appeared on my HUD (I think it's something to do with traction) .
secondly and on the same day I gave it a good amount of gas but the speedometer just kept the speed at 70 Km/h and the engine was making a sound like it wanted to increase the speed but there was something preventing it from doing so. I asked my friend who is knowledgable about this engine and he told me this happens cause I ain't got no traction at all so the car just can't hook on the road.
I really love the car but I also wanna enjoy it, so what about semi slick tires I asked him, he told me it's a good option but don't think about installing them in the winter cause if they get wet as much as a drop of water your gonna spin.
I want to get the best tires for the car to hook but I'm confused about that as well. I'm really sorry for the long post guys , but all your replies are appreciated
I'm also sorry if I don't reply asap cause of the time difference.
Thank you all for your support and efforts.
Peace.
Now that you have clarified some specifics I would suggest that you do a simple stage 1 kit which will get you very close to 600rwhp...Is your car and auto or manual???HP is generally less with a auto than a manual...The recommendations I made in the previous post are the way to go...As far as tires that all in how you operate the car, there is no specific tire that is going to eliminate the car from spinning the rear wheels in 1st or 2nd gear on the street, it's all under the control of your foot...You may look for a brand that has a longer life and is a good all season tire...As for you speedometer sticking at 70km/h I have no idea, unless you're in a manual and were hitting the rev limiter which you should stop holding the gear and which to the next gear...The indicator that you saw was for traction control, if you don't turn it off it will show the swiggly lines in the drivers info. cent. not the HUD that is triggered due to the rear tires spinning...As far as a pulley swap and solid isolator stay with the upper pulley, because the snout has to be pulled to install the isolator and this will save you at least $700.00 verse going with a lower pulley...If you have your owners manual you really need to read it, so you can get a better understanding of how the car operates and what the warning signals mean, if you don't read the manual completely you're doing yourself and the car an injustice as it explains in detail the many performance setting of the car that you are not aware of...If you don't have a manual maybe you can borrow one from a friend, but you really do need to read it...You will be satisfied with a stage 1 kit...
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Rims powder coated gloss black...BFG'S Comp 2 A/S...
Dual 10" Kicker Comp S Subs 1200w...

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Old 11-11-2016, 11:21 AM   #19
Genzl1rev
 
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Drives: 2014 ZL1 RED HOT
Join Date: May 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STUNNAH View Post
If you can tell us more about your goal for the car then additional info can be provided...Look at some of the sponsor websites and see what they have to offer Jannetty Racing, Lingenfelter Performance, and Vengeance Racing just to name a few that I'm familiar with...
I agree with what Stunnah is asking.

I've read plenty of posts on many forums where somebody will say, I have X amount of $$$ and I want Y much horsepower. How do I get to Z?

With that, there will be plenty of answers, but if you go to put the pedal to the metal and the wheels spin, it's really tough. How much rain in the UAE...if not that much, get some sticky tires. The stock ones are good, but if they are cold, they won't grab...maybe that's what happened.

So driving conditions or how you want to drive it, is a good question to ask.
And I think you've answered that one.
600HP is a good goal and very attainable. Just 20 more can be done with a CAI, correct me if I'm wrong here. If you're they don't care about cats and you can live with a CEL or two you can go highflow cats. I've read it's tricky to fool the stock system.
Mine's bone stock and I'm itching to do those two things I've suggested, but in CA, there are so many restrictions...I'm not the type of person to work that hard to avoid a smog check. (R&R mods to pass)

There's all that other stuff with the pulleys is beyond me. I understand compress more air equals more boost equals more HP. But there is so much more to it than that. (TUNING)

One thing I learned long ago is do a mod while you can if the engine is in a position to take it(unless you have time and dollars to R&R your engine).

I had the chance to replace a small block chevy with a 427 but didn't have the dollars and then put in a cam at the same time, or just a beefy cam. There may have been a $200 dollar difference, but when I was done...and years after I had it, I was kicking myself for not doing it.

It's not an easy decision...be safe and smart.


Peace,

He's Alive
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:29 AM   #20
Can'tHave2MuchHP
 
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Location: Michigan
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What Stunnah said is true. I'll try and clarify some more information that way you don't have to go looking or talking to shops that haven't done any ZL1s.

For a top quality build order:

Kooks Headers with or without Cats depending on how loud you want it (No cats are louder)
Roto-Fab Cold Air Intake
Lingenfelter 2.55" Upper Supercharger Pulley OR a 8.6" (10%) Lower Pulley (Lower Pulley will require an ATI Balancer and ARP Bolt kit)
160 Degree Thermostat
Catch Can (Many places to order this from)
Solid Isolator from Lingenfelter or Metco
Spark Plugs (Grade 7)
Tune

Nitto NT05R Drag Radial Tires in 315/35/20. These will fit on your stock wheels with no issues and will give you awesome straight line traction. If you want straight line traction and turning power then move to the Toyo R888 Tire in 315/30/20 (Also fits stock wheels and may last longer). These two tires are your best shot. You may hear people saying to use Mickey Thompsons but I'd not recommend them for daily use as you use the car.

An upgraded heat exchanger is unnecessary at this point.
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Old 11-11-2016, 01:38 PM   #21
d-mob
 
Drives: Zl1
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: UAE
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by STUNNAH View Post
Now that you have clarified some specifics I would suggest that you do a simple stage 1 kit which will get you very close to 600rwhp...Is your car and auto or manual???HP is generally less with a auto than a manual...The recommendations I made in the previous post are the way to go...As far as tires that all in how you operate the car, there is no specific tire that is going to eliminate the car from spinning the rear wheels in 1st or 2nd gear on the street, it's all under the control of your foot...You may look for a brand that has a longer life and is a good all season tire...As for you speedometer sticking at 70km/h I have no idea, unless you're in a manual and were hitting the rev limiter which you should stop holding the gear and which to the next gear...The indicator that you saw was for traction control, if you don't turn it off it will show the swiggly lines in the drivers info. cent. not the HUD that is triggered due to the rear tires spinning...As far as a pulley swap and solid isolator stay with the upper pulley, because the snout has to be pulled to install the isolator and this will save you at least $700.00 verse going with a lower pulley...If you have your owners manual you really need to read it, so you can get a better understanding of how the car operates and what the warning signals mean, if you don't read the manual completely you're doing yourself and the car an injustice as it explains in detail the many performance setting of the car that you are not aware of...If you don't have a manual maybe you can borrow one from a friend, but you really do need to read it...You will be satisfied with a stage 1 kit...
You are right I really should read the owners manual, but just never got to it as I work and study on weekdays. Thanks for the info. My car is auto btw
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:01 PM   #22
d-mob
 
Drives: Zl1
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: UAE
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Genzl1rev View Post
I agree with what Stunnah is asking.

I've read plenty of posts on many forums where somebody will say, I have X amount of $$$ and I want Y much horsepower. How do I get to Z?

With that, there will be plenty of answers, but if you go to put the pedal to the metal and the wheels spin, it's really tough. How much rain in the UAE...if not that much, get some sticky tires. The stock ones are good, but if they are cold, they won't grab...maybe that's what happened.

So driving conditions or how you want to drive it, is a good question to ask.
And I think you've answered that one.
600HP is a good goal and very attainable. Just 20 more can be done with a CAI, correct me if I'm wrong here. If you're they don't care about cats and you can live with a CEL or two you can go highflow cats. I've read it's tricky to fool the stock system.
Mine's bone stock and I'm itching to do those two things I've suggested, but in CA, there are so many restrictions...I'm not the type of person to work that hard to avoid a smog check. (R&R mods to pass)

There's all that other stuff with the pulleys is beyond me. I understand compress more air equals more boost equals more HP. But there is so much more to it than that. (TUNING)

One thing I learned long ago is do a mod while you can if the engine is in a position to take it(unless you have time and dollars to R&R your engine).

I had the chance to replace a small block chevy with a 427 but didn't have the dollars and then put in a cam at the same time, or just a beefy cam. There may have been a $200 dollar difference, but when I was done...and years after I had it, I was kicking myself for not doing it.

It's not an easy decision...be safe and smart.


Peace,

He's Alive
Thanks for the info brother, my goal is actually 600whp not crank hp. Plus you are right about the budget.
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:02 PM   #23
d-mob
 
Drives: Zl1
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: UAE
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP View Post
What Stunnah said is true. I'll try and clarify some more information that way you don't have to go looking or talking to shops that haven't done any ZL1s.

For a top quality build order:

Kooks Headers with or without Cats depending on how loud you want it (No cats are louder)
Roto-Fab Cold Air Intake
Lingenfelter 2.55" Upper Supercharger Pulley OR a 8.6" (10%) Lower Pulley (Lower Pulley will require an ATI Balancer and ARP Bolt kit)
160 Degree Thermostat
Catch Can (Many places to order this from)
Solid Isolator from Lingenfelter or Metco
Spark Plugs (Grade 7)
Tune

Nitto NT05R Drag Radial Tires in 315/35/20. These will fit on your stock wheels with no issues and will give you awesome straight line traction. If you want straight line traction and turning power then move to the Toyo R888 Tire in 315/30/20 (Also fits stock wheels and may last longer). These two tires are your best shot. You may hear people saying to use Mickey Thompsons but I'd not recommend them for daily use as you use the car.

An upgraded heat exchanger is unnecessary at this point.
I will look in to those thanks for your post.
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