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Old 11-23-2011, 03:53 AM   #1
djamphi555
 
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Supercharger for the shade tree mechanic

Hi and thank you for your advice on this.

I was wondering how much boost the ZL-1 supercharger is rated at? Couldn't find much info. Which aftermarket supercharger comes close?

I am interested in maybe buying a supercharger for my 2010 Camaro SS. From what I read I assume I would want a twin screw type, because I am looking for a little more torque on the lower end of the RPM range. Am I correct in this assumption?
Also, which of these superchargers are "easy" on the engine. Don't want to cause too much wear and tear. The engine will stay stock. What is a safe PSI range?

And most importantly!!! Which company offers a supercharger listed above, that has the easiest and simplest installation guide as a complete kit? Something that does not involve too much component relocation, too much drilling, engine cover trimming, etc. Perhaps even a quicker installation? Maybe 8-10 hours, if everything goes smoothly.

Thank you for the help in advance.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:19 AM   #2
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ZL1 has a 1900 or 1.9L tvs style SC. Magnuson has both a 1900 and 2300. Boost should be around 5-6 psi. You can bolt on ANY aftermarket SC and get the same hp/tq numbers as a ZL1. Add LT's, CAI and a custom tune and you have 550 to the wheels or 630 hp at the crank.

There are a ton of guys on here doing this and more. I'm looking at a Whipple or turbo application so I have room to grow. I dropped the order on my ZL1 and will be keeping my SS.

Taking your time, you can install almost any of the current SC's in 8-12 hours. The Edelbrock has its own engine cover so no trimming is required. Maggie's and Whipples have the option of roto-fab covers to help dress the engine back up or you can cut your cover to fit.

I've seen cars with 5-13psi on the stock motor. With the right tune and fuel, you can get away with this for a long time. Get bad gas, not so long. There is risk in everything. Where you are in Germany, I'd get a Whipple or Turbonetics kit and keep the rest stock run the tune that comes with the kit, install it, sit back and enjoy the ride.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:24 AM   #3
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If you are a noob who is concerned about drilling things...then you will not be able to install a SC in 8 to 12 hours.....it isn't happening.

Allocate an entire weekend and either the Whipple or the Maggie will easily give you all the power you would want.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:36 AM   #4
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Cool. Thanks. I'm in the Stuttgart area in Germany.

So the Whipple and Maggie would provide the low end torque? Which of these two have a more recommended flash software tune that you guys would recommend? Thanks.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:03 AM   #5
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Cool. Thanks. I'm in the Stuttgart area in Germany.

So the Whipple and Maggie would provide the low end torque? Which of these two have a more recommended flash software tune that you guys would recommend? Thanks.
Both of their tunes are extremely mediocre. Budget for a custom tune as soon as you can.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:25 AM   #6
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Edelbrock,whipple,Maggie should fit your request nicely.
I think the Edelbrock would give you the most torque,maggie is good all around,and the Whipple would give the most peak power.I'm sure others will have their opinion on this also.lol....
You can check with the vendors here for quotes.
Janetty Racing Ent. can also send you a custom tune with the product also.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:28 AM   #7
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Another reason why I am looking for an easy install is that i just don't do this as a living. I can drill holes, but sometimes if I need to drill 20 holes one might end up walking and as Huffer mentioned, that might turn the week-end project into a complete failure.
Also, what can go wrong with an install where there is no turning back and no going forward. Not being a mechanic I decided to change my timing chain on my 98 Firebird. Everything went fine until I had to re-fill my radiator. Not knowing all the tricks to the trade I just opened up the radiator cap and started filling, but I was unaware of the bleeder valves. I figured something was wrong after the engine got quite hot. Can something this catastrophic happen during an install? Are these instructions written like a haynes manual ( i.e. you need to know a little to understand) or are they like the Gm service manual, very precise? Thanks.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:02 AM   #8
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It's hard to answer questions like this because to some the instructions are great and to others they are terrible. One thing I am sure of is that you can get all the help you need here on this forum.

It isn't a difficult job to install a blower but it IS going to take way more time than you think. I am sure the typical superheroes will be in here soon to say they installed theirs in 3 hours while lifting weights and making dinner but for the average guy who has never done one of these.....it IS going to take you quite a while to install.

The Maggie base kit doesn't use a BAP.....so if you want the EASIEST to install then it's probably the Maggie....but with no BAP you are limited to 5 to 6 lbs (I think) from the stock pulley. If the BAP doesn't scare you then the Whipple is a superior SC in my opinion.

There is really only one spot where you need to cut or drill or do anything other than unbolt something and that is pinning the crank. You basically need to drill one hole. It's not that hard but you need to go slow and take your time and make sure that it is done properly. Other than everything is pretty easy...just time consuming.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:26 AM   #9
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Thank you HefferSS. Looks like I'm leaning towards the Maggie now.
As far as my questions regarding the instructions. I prefer instructions that are very long. I don't mind reading instructions that explain a step that many would take for granted and say "no, duh". I like a lot of fluff. If the Whipple has instructions like this, I think I would attempt the extra step to install the BAP. In other words, I don't mind taking more time reading instructions than doing the actual task. Thanks.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:32 AM   #10
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Thank you HefferSS. Looks like I'm leaning towards the Maggie now.
As far as my questions regarding the instructions. I prefer instructions that are very long. I don't mind reading instructions that explain a step that many would take for granted and say "no, duh". I like a lot of fluff. If the Whipple has instructions like this, I think I would attempt the extra step to install the BAP. In other words, I don't mind taking more time reading instructions than doing the actual task. Thanks.
I am pretty sure both are probably available via email or download. Post another thread asking for instructions or contact the vendors and see what they can do to help.

Personally I wouldn't even consider not having a BAP on my car even with the Maggie but supposedly it's safe.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #11
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Don't let the BAP scare you. It's dead simple to install. All the wiring is pre-made and everything is loomed up. Bolt it in the trunk, route the wiring/vacuum line, zip tie everything. Done.

The fact that the Whipple kit comes with a BAP is a big bonus. Not just because it's there, but because all the wiring comes pre-done and it's pre-programmed from Whipple.

The Whipple instructions are great. Very clear, with lots of pictures. I installed my Whipple (and ARH headers) in about 8 hours, but that was in a shop with a few other guys, and I know my way around an LS motor pretty well. If it was my first time, by myself, in my garage, it would probably take an entire weekend.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:15 AM   #12
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The hardest part for me installing the Whipple was those damn allen screws going from the lower intake up into the blower.
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:46 AM   #13
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The hardest part for me installing the Whipple was those damn allen screws going from the lower intake up into the blower.
OMG. That one at the back under the shaft housing... MURDER.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:16 AM   #14
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You can install the S/C yourself but, as Huffer stated no way you will do this in one Saturday or such if you have not done this before. It will take you a decent amount of time alone just to remove your front fascia and get the cooler in place. My advice is get some mechanical friends to be willing to get everything off you need to say on a Saturday and get the bulk of the S/C on. Then plan on hitting it again Sunday morning to get it going and be wrapping it up Sunday afternoon.

The ZL1 uses a TVS1900 Magnuson. Most guys on here are running the TVS2300 and pumping out more RWHP than a ZL1 will. Just bear in mind your motor is not forged and you do have a few drive line parts that may not be quite up to snuff for the power adder depending on what you plan to do with that extra power.
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