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Old 09-13-2017, 10:03 AM   #1
wasker
 
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How to minimize chances of destroying brakes on track day?

Hey all,

Took my car (2LT auto '15) to the track last week - ended up with $1000+ bill to replace drums and brake fluid. That's not the first time happening (although, probably the most expensive one so far).

Any recommendations on what can I do to minimize chances of this happening after the next track day?

I'm looking at Phastek's selection - slotted/drilled drums, ceramic pads, 6 pistons vs 4. Is this worth it? Any brands to stay away from?

Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:46 AM   #2
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I hope you didn't pay for drums because your car has disc brakes on all 4 wheels!

On the V6, your brakes will definitely be your weakest link. I tend to like Phastek's parts and they don't sell junk. I don't think you will need 6 piston brakes though. 4 piston calipers, with pads and new brake brake fluid will be fine.

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Old 09-13-2017, 02:24 PM   #3
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Any recommendations on "high-performance" brake fluid, which doesn't go bad under harsh braking?
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:29 PM   #4
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You need to read up a lot more and educate yourself if you think you had your drum brakes replaced. There are plenty of threads about brakes on here and picking whats right for tracking. Much of your selection depends on budget and ultimate goal for the vehicle. Castrol SRF is the best fluid there is.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasker View Post
Hey all,

Took my car (2LT auto '15) to the track last week - ended up with $1000+ bill to replace drums and brake fluid. That's not the first time happening (although, probably the most expensive one so far).

Any recommendations on what can I do to minimize chances of this happening after the next track day?

I'm looking at Phastek's selection - slotted/drilled drums, ceramic pads, 6 pistons vs 4. Is this worth it? Any brands to stay away from?

Thanks!
Exactly what kinds of damage and/or wear happened?

For track day/HPDE use, I'd avoid everybody's cross-drilled rotors and every performance-street level and lower ceramic pad.


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Old 09-13-2017, 08:02 PM   #6
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If you go 6 piston an want a good budget rotor look at the CTS-V rotor.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:13 PM   #7
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I ran brand new stock pads and 40k rotors at my first hpde event. I did upgrade to Mogul 600 and stainless steel braided lines for that event and I was fine slowing my 2lt RS auto down around Sebring which is hard on brakes.

The second time out I upgraded to Cadillac ATS Brembo 4 piston fronts, Hawk Hp Plus on the fronts only, and R1Concepts slotted rotors on all 4 corners. Rear pads remained stock. Braking was much better and no issues. You can look up my profile and find my thread with all this build info.

Did you allow your brakes to properly cool? I drive around the paddock for about 5 minutes before parking it and that is after the cool down lap we take. Then I move my car slightly every 10 min for a while to not allow the remaining heat in the pads to cover one single area of the rotor for an extended period of time. Again, not one issue.
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:28 AM   #8
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What did they do for $1000+ ? Who worked on the car?
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:09 PM   #9
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Hey guys,

I appreciate responses and recommendations! I'll follow up the build thread - very good stuff!

Let me address couple of questions...

RE: $1000+ - front and rear pads replaced and rotors resurfaced, brake fluid changed. It was done at dealership, so the price is not surprising.

RE: damage - I went longer than I was supposed to, on track without break. I usually do 20 mins of driving followed by 20 mins of cooling off, but this time I started off with probably 40 mins on track, did a few more 20-minute sessions, but at the end skipped on cooling. Again, no surprises.

Thanks for the tips on cooling between sessions - I usually simply let it sit for 20 mins, but I can see how some moving around could help...

Thanks a lot! Sorry for me being late with replies.
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Old 09-15-2017, 02:05 AM   #10
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I have been upgrading my brakes on my V6 slowly since I bought my car. I use DOT 4 fluid, currently have the 4 pot Brembos from an ATS (like Silent... I'd listen to his advise!) and recently put on SS rear Brembos. With my stock calipers I literally fried my EBC brake pads to a crisp after a 3 track days, and realized that those were not the brakes for me! I now have new brakes and new gloves too.

In your position I would consider getting brake ducts to keep them cool and calipers and rotors that will dissipate the heat better. There are a lot of people on the forum selling their brakes from SS or better, I'd wait for a good deal on some second hand Brembos and to the swap. It is relatively easy and there are a lot of very detailed how-to posts. In the end you would probably save you money.

The ATS calipers use the same rotors you have now and weigh a lot less, the SS calipers weigh about 1lb less than stock but the rotors are massive.

Hope this helps guide you in the direction that works best for you.
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Old 09-16-2017, 01:55 PM   #11
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@rocknroll_jeph - wow, thanks a lot for advice! Great info for me!
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:35 PM   #12
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@rocknroll_jeph - wow, thanks a lot for advice! Great info for me!
We are all here to help each other. Keep us posted on your progress and decisions!
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:50 AM   #13
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You definitely don't want any one spot of your rotors to get to hot compared to another. I've seen it on here before that people recommend driving around the paddock for a while at slow speeds to just keep the air flowing around them and allowing them to cool evenly. Wherever the pads are in comparison to the rotor is where the rotor will continue to be hotter than the rest of the rotor.

And like Jeff stated, we're all here to help. He was a tremendous help to me for the Cadillac ATS front caliper upgrade, along with many others.
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:46 PM   #14
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Any recommendations on "high-performance" brake fluid, which doesn't go bad under harsh braking?
Castrol SRF . Wet boiling point over 500°F.
It's like 80 a litre. You will need 2

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