I'm embarrased to ask but....

[Mr Monte]

Originally Posted by strych9

You should check your oil every time you put gas in it, period. Plus, the OEM-specified 8qts is too much oil for the V8 engines. 7qts (right on the add line) is where you want to keep it if you run your car hard. Why? Oil aerates at high RPM with 8qts in the crank case.

If you have to check your oil every time you get gas you need a new engine. I check every 1000 miles, before a road trip or on race day. I do a walk-a-round any car I drive daily just to make sure all looks right.

I had a car back in the 70s that I had to add 2-3 qts of oil between gas fillups. Fun times.

You are spot on with the oil aeration issue. I drilled it into my 4 kids to not overfill their oil for that same reason.

[strych9]

Originally Posted by Mr Monte

If you have to check your oil every time you get gas you need a new engine. I check every 1000 miles, before a road trip or on race day. I do a walk-a-round any car I drive daily just to make sure all looks right.

I had a car back in the 70s that I had to add 2-3 qts of oil between gas fillups. Fun times.

You are spot on with the oil aeration issue. I drilled it into my 4 kids to not overfill their oil for that same reason.

Your engine can consume a great deal of oil without so much as a puff of smoke out of the exhaust, and you wouldn't even know it. A defective PCV valve can do that in a heartbeat. It takes all of 2 minutes to check my oil at the gas station. An ounce of prevention. I'm not taking any chances.

[K1SSRSS]

After building race cars for the last decade and a half, I know I would much rather have an oil aeration issue than an oil starvation issue. Oil aeration is a myth on our LS cars, we have baffles in the oil pan that allow the oil to settle long enough to help let air out. If you really think that 1/4 inch or so for reading on the dipstick is going to keep your crankshaft from throwing oil every where, your mistaken, not only is a 1/4 inch or so not going to keep your crankshaft from dipping into the oil if it already is, where do you think the oil flows after your lifters, rockers etc.? It flows directly down over the crankshaft and gets flung everywhere, this is the reason to use a crank scrapper and also the reason for knife edged cranks.

The fill line is there for a reason, to let you know when the oil is low, if you are constantly running on the fill line you are not getting the benefits of cooler oil and also run more of a risk of starvation issues especially if driving the car hard, this is when the motor needs as much oil as possible.

Sorry for the rant and I know it was a little off topic, but I hate when people give misinformation especially when there is the potential to damage a motor in that missinformation.

[strych9]

Originally Posted by K1SSRSS

After building race cars for the last decade and a half, I know I would much rather have an oil aeration issue than an oil starvation issue. Oil aeration is a myth on our LS cars, we have baffles in the oil pan that allow the oil to settle long enough to help let air out. If you really think that 1/4 inch or so for reading on the dipstick is going to keep your crankshaft from throwing oil every where, your mistaken, not only is a 1/4 inch or so not going to keep your crankshaft from dipping into the oil if it already is, where do you think the oil flows after your lifters, rockers etc.? It flows directly down over the crankshaft and gets flung everywhere, this is the reason to use a crank scrapper and also the reason for knife edged cranks.

The fill line is there for a reason, to let you know when the oil is low, if you are constantly running on the fill line you are not getting the benefits of cooler oil and also run more of a risk of starvation issues especially if driving the car hard, this is when the motor needs as much oil as possible.

Sorry for the rant and I know it was a little off topic, but I hate when people give misinformation especially when there is the potential to damage a motor in that missinformation.

LOL...it isn't misinformation. Do some research. Guys here have proven that it can cure lifter tick, and several reputable vendors that build these engines for a living recommend it. Starvation? Only if you're running a high-volume pump balls-out for a very extended time.

Not withstanding, the rest of your statements are pretty accurate.

[K1SSRSS]

Originally Posted by strych9

LOL...it isn't misinformation. Do some research. Guys here have proven that it can cure lifter tick, and several reputable vendors that build these engines for a living recommend it. Starvation? Only if you're running a high-volume pump balls-out for a very extended time.

Not withstanding, the rest of your statements are pretty accurate.

I make a great deal of my living off of building circle track motors, I sure would never recommend to run any of them on the low side of oil.

It is interesting that so many worry about a little lifter noise and not about spinning a bearing.

Sure the argument can be had that it is possible for aeration to decrease lift a few thousandths at idle, I say if a couple of hp at idle is worth the risk then have at it. Its not worth the risk to me as when RPMs go up the oil level in the pan decreases and oil pressure increases therefore you likely don't have any of the same aeration issues above idle anyway.

[Dimitrim]

Always check dip stick when engine oil is at operating temp. If for some reason you have to add oil to a cold engine, put it half way between the add mark and the full mark. There is a big difference between coolant temperature and oil temperature for it to fully expand. If you are fortuate engough to have a oil temp gauge pay attention to that. When the oil temperatue is a operating temperatue that is when you can safely top off.

[strych9]

Originally Posted by K1SSRSS

I make a great deal of my living off of building circle track motors, I sure would never recommend to run any of them on the low side of oil.

It is interesting that so many worry about a little lifter noise and not about spinning a bearing.

Sure the argument can be had that it is possible for aeration to decrease lift a few thousandths at idle, I say if a couple of hp at idle is worth the risk then have at it. Its not worth the risk to me as when RPMs go up the oil level in the pan decreases and oil pressure increases therefore you likely don't have any of the same aeration issues above idle anyway.

The point is, the OEM purposely overfill them because the masses don't care to trouble themselves with occasionally checking their oil. So, "full" on the dipstick is technically overfull. "Add" is just right on these engines.

I respect what you're saying, but really that was my point all along.

[B-_-RAD]

Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369

If you have a GM Certified car, you get free oil changes for a year. You will not receive your free oil change until the OLM reaches <22%. 35% is still very fresh.

I wouldn't worry about it until you're <20%. My oil just hit 19% today and I just scheduled a change at the dealer for Saturday morning as of 25 minutes ago. Just make sure to monitor the LEVEL of the oil. That's what will hurt your motor. Old, dirty oil at the proper level isn't nearly as big a problem as fresh oil that's low!!!

It has been changed to 15% Olm before a free change.

[revived]

Thats retarded, i change mine every 4-5k if i could afford it id do it sooner