1LE Differential and Half Shafts/Axles Part Numbers

[PartsTaxi.com]

Originally Posted by jlugo

From paceperformance.com;

'Part#22813040 is on national backorder from GM with no ETA'

I'm looking to buy a Set of '1LE' 3.91 Gears, anyone know how has them?

We've been getting them in within 2-3 weeks. Give us a call we will be able to help you. Camaro 5 member pricing is 211.34 plus shipping.

-Anna
302-883-0227

[NickJRE]

Guy's that's a glitch. Not sure why it did that. I still have 3 sets left check now

http://jreperformanceparts.com/2010-...-91-gears.html

[TAG UR IT]

Originally Posted by PartsTaxi.com

We've been getting them in within 2-3 weeks. Give us a call we will be able to help you. Camaro 5 member pricing is 211.34 plus shipping.

-Anna
302-883-0227

Your PM's are turned off....TURN THEM ON!!!

[Zeus95]

Originally Posted by Zeus95

Any confirmation that the 1LE axles are better then the stock SS axles ? I have a really early vin, and need to upgrade. torn between the 1LE & the G-Force. Suggestions ? Comments ? Gonna do the 3.91 gear also. Thanks guys

Anybody know ? or any feed back from guys that have switched out stock axles to ILE ?

[PartsTaxi.com]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

Your PM's are turned off....TURN THEM ON!!!

We dont get on the forums as often as we'd like you can shoot me an e-mail at amelson@lewesautomall.com I check that multiple times a day.

-Anna

[Leviathan]

Originally Posted by Zeus95

Anybody know ? or any feed back from guys that have switched out stock axles to ILE ?

I'm bumping with this question.

Are they beefed up in all the right places?

I don't need anything more than a 3.90 gear for the foreseeable future, but do plan on CAI/Cam/Tune. Would prefer not to spend $5k on the rear if I can get away with it.

[bannonm]

Originally Posted by Leviathan

I'm bumping with this question.

Are they beefed up in all the right places?

I don't need anything more than a 3.90 gear for the foreseeable future, but do plan on CAI/Cam/Tune. Would prefer not to spend $5k on the rear if I can get away with it.

I did a search on broken axles and didn't really get a feel for what part of the axle breaks. Seems most of the issues are with the passenger side axle though. Many are attributing the issue to wheel hop and breaking on launch.

It seems there are many factors at play that could affect whether you break an axle or not. Just plain HP/torque doesn't seem to be the main reason axles broke. JusticePete summarized this in a post.

Posted by JusticePete
Wheel hop isn't just one part. It is in the drive-line and suspension. It is influenced by driving style, wheels and tires. It is a harmonic instability that starts small and reverberates, grows and finally explodes into potentially destructive vibration. Before we start selling you parts, maybe we should ask you about your particular situation?

1. What is your RWHP?
2. What is your wheel and tire package?
3. Is the wheel hop at the track or on the street?
4. Is the wheel hop temperature sensitive? ie. cold days, goes away when your tires are hot...
5. What RPMs are you luanching at?

[Avalnch]

From what I've read here, the weak point in our IRS axle are the CV joints. Specifically, if you lower your car and dramatically change your axle shaft angles.

Of course wheel hop will break lots of stuff too, but the first thing to go will be the axles. Not sure if they would snap in half, but for a mild buildup, you're probably looking at the CV joints detonating before anything else gives.

Here are the steps I took to prevent broken axle shafts:
- fix the wheel hop (Pfadt trailing arms)
- mild lowering of the car
- swap out to the DSS Road Race axles

[Leviathan]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

From what I've read here, the weak point in our IRS axle are the CV joints. Specifically, if you lower your car and dramatically change your axle shaft angles.

Of course wheel hop will break lots of stuff too, but the first thing to go will be the axles. Not sure if they would snap in half, but for a mild buildup, you're probably looking at the CV joints detonating before anything else gives.

Here are the steps I took to prevent broken axle shafts:
- fix the wheel hop (Pfadt trailing arms)
- mild lowering of the car
- swap out to the DSS Road Race axles

My car's stock down to the air filter. M6, will be on drag radials. I know from personal experience that DR's shock the drivetrain a little more than slicks. I gained a real hard lesson with the rearend on my 98 SS M6.

[Zeus95]

Originally Posted by bannonm

I did a search on broken axles and didn't really get a feel for what part of the axle breaks. Seems most of the issues are with the passenger side axle though. Many are attributing the issue to wheel hop and breaking on launch.

It seems there are many factors at play that could affect whether you break an axle or not. Just plain HP/torque doesn't seem to be the main reason axles broke. JusticePete summarized this in a post.

Posted by JusticePete
Wheel hop isn't just one part. It is in the drive-line and suspension. It is influenced by driving style, wheels and tires. It is a harmonic instability that starts small and reverberates, grows and finally explodes into potentially destructive vibration. Before we start selling you parts, maybe we should ask you about your particular situation?

1. What is your RWHP?
2. What is your wheel and tire package?
3. Is the wheel hop at the track or on the street?
4. Is the wheel hop temperature sensitive? ie. cold days, goes away when your tires are hot...
5. What RPMs are you luanching at?

Right now, i just have some bolt on stuff, around 500Hp at the motor. I did put BMR Sways front and rear with Hotchkins end links. I just picked the Phaft rear control arm kit and a set of Phaft Diff Bushing's. I'm still driving on my stock PZero's and have never used launch control. Will my stock axles be ok, or should I go with the ILE's ? I might do a cam, down the road but not anytime soon.

I've only raced the car once at Indy last year, and I really didn't feel much wheel hop. But to be honest that was my first track day ever and I was just happy to be driving a Camaro and having fun. I do know the car got alot tighter once I put on the new sway bars and i can only imagine it will get even better with the Phaft stuff.

I also do not launch really hard, I think around 3000 rpm maybe 3500.
Weather is always warm. Car in storage from Oct to April.
2ss/RS 2010 M6 Thanks guys

[Russell James]

Can someone take a pick of the 1LE axles next to the SS axles?

Like others, I'm trying to figure out if there is an actual difference in strength.

Or were they just changed at the outer spline to match the ZL1 hubs?

I'm putting the 1LE gears in.... and axles if they are actually better. I don't road race, so don't really need the ZL1 hubs.

[blazzin1]

Originally Posted by Russell James

Can someone take a pick of the 1LE axles next to the SS axles?

Like others, I'm trying to figure out if there is an actual difference in strength.

Or were they just changed at the outer spline to match the ZL1 hubs?

I'm putting the 1LE gears in.... and axles if they are actually better. I don't road race, so don't really need the ZL1 hubs.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276561

[bannonm]

Originally Posted by Russell James

Can someone take a pick of the 1LE axles next to the SS axles?

Like others, I'm trying to figure out if there is an actual difference in strength.

Or were they just changed at the outer spline to match the ZL1 hubs?

I'm putting the 1LE gears in.... and axles if they are actually better. I don't road race, so don't really need the ZL1 hubs.

Originally Posted by blazzin1

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276561

Outer CV joint is larger. Outer splines on the ZL1, 1LE, and SS are the SAME. Therefore you don't need new hubs unless you want to believe they really did put heavier duty bearings in the ZL1/1LE hubs. 1LE axles need new axle nuts.

If you're already doing gears, the axles come out anyway. Labor-wise shouldn't cost more. Figure $400 for the two axles.

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by bannonm

Outer CV joint is larger. Outer splines on the ZL1, 1LE, and SS are the SAME. Therefore you don't need new hubs unless you want to believe they really did put heavier duty bearings in the ZL1/1LE hubs. 1LE axles need new axle nuts.

If you're already doing gears, the axles come out anyway. Labor-wise shouldn't cost more. Figure $400 for the two axles.

Looking at those pics though, the ends of the spline section is different. One stub end is tapered before the axle nut threads (1LE), the other splines end flat and have a groove?

Anyone actually put 1LE axles in SS hubs and drive for many miles. The slightest difference in effective axle length can really screw things up. Or if it mates up against the hub bearing differently.