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Old 10-30-2013, 08:09 AM   #15
f5journal
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Engine failed first...Oil pump failed second...I've read every one of these threads in the past 4 years
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:22 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by gr8daneh View Post
Thanks! Appreciate the empathy...



CAM Is missing a chunk, not sure that happened first. Comp CAM, Mobil synthetic. Thanks for the wishes.
Underlined in red is a big part of your problem and could be the source. M1 has no business being in a cammed engine. The aftermarket cams just have too fast of a ramp rate and M1 in ANY weight either does not have the film strength or correct amount of ZDDP. There have been too many lifter/cam failures in the last couple of years and almost all of them (including me) had M1 in the crank case. Anyone who reads this should be warned. Don't use M1 of any type or weight no matter what your tuner/builder recommends if you have a aftermarket cam. The oil just is not what it used to be.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:34 AM   #17
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Sorry to hear of your troubles gr8. There really isn't much going on inside of these pumps for them to be having all these problems. Couple of gears, a spring, check ball is about it. Must be bad materials.

What kind of oil do you guys running cams recommend? I have the G6X3 cam, which is pretty radical, and I would rather be safe than sorry. Does Royal Purple have the additives in it to reduce wear on the cam lobes? I thought about trying Joe Gibbs oil because it has the zink additive in it.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:25 AM   #18
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Sorry to hear of your troubles gr8. There really isn't much going on inside of these pumps for them to be having all these problems. Couple of gears, a spring, check ball is about it. Must be bad materials.

What kind of oil do you guys running cams recommend? I have the G6X3 cam, which is pretty radical, and I would rather be safe than sorry. Does Royal Purple have the additives in it to reduce wear on the cam lobes? I thought about trying Joe Gibbs oil because it has the zink additive in it.
Drew - its highly recommended by many on this forum and elsewhere to run an oil that has higher zinc and phosphorus additives (ZDPP) than the current formula for Mobil 1. These additives have anti-wear properties that are good for us guys running higher lift cams. I run Royal Purple "HPS". It has the anti-wear additives. I use RP per my builder's recommendation (Ron @ Vengeance Racing). Joe Gibbs has a good reputation as well.

Others may well jump in with some "RP is crap" comments. While I respect their opinion - I just respect Ron's more. That oil is the only oil he uses in his street builds.

I've been very happy with this oil for about 10K miles now. My valve train is a little less noisy and I have a little less blow by in my catch can. Not sure if those are because of the oil or just there are more miles on the engine and everything is well broken in. But I like the results.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:44 AM   #19
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May I ask why? I'm actually curious due to the fact I'm going in for a Cam install Monday and that's what they said they are going to put in the car.
Vader pretty much summed it up. If you go with a cam then you should also change oil. Amsoil zrod, vr1, joe Gibbs, rp all are good oils.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:40 AM   #20
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OP, it pains me to hear this...sorry man. On another note, some of you "failure mode" language tells me that you have done a DFMEA or two in your lifetime
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Old 10-30-2013, 02:55 PM   #21
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Mobil 1 makes me cringe when guys/gals get aggressive cams
That hilarious cause I cringed when I saw that too! I see you recommend RP. Did they change their setup at all? I had read a couple posts on LS1TECH that the oil was too slippery and sometimes actually caused sludge. I switched to Valvoline Synpower since VR1 got pulled from the shelves. So far so good!
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:50 PM   #22
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Whenever I get the dreaded call that a customers car has lost oil pressure I cringe.. I've had customers run them for what they think is 30 seconds but the issue is we rely on the warning to alert us opposed to watching the oil pressure; that could be 2 minutes plus of low pressure before a complete pressure loss occurs. This car is very well taken care of so it isn't a maintenance issue.

I've had the stock pumps fail in 100% stock LS cars, in bolt-on LS cars and in LS cars with cam packages. I haven't seen as many until 2010 and we always assumed it was a bad batch from GM; remember there batches are HUGE. We've always replaced the OEM pumps with new OEM units in the 2010 Camaros just to be safe but we've had a few check valves stick this year and we've since gone to the Melling pumps. I talked with our GM rep and they are aware of the issue but in their world it is such a small percentage that it doesn't warrant change; I would disagree.

The scoring on the cam is seen on stock cams as well as aftermarket cams and in this case the cam was pretty mild. I think that the check valve starts to cause lower pressure as it sticks and the first place that suffers from that lack of pressure is the top end. I also think oil should be changed every 3K miles or 3 months; dirty oil can cause these failures as well. I have people tell me their oil is good for 5K miles or their Oil Life Monitor says they have 20% until a change is required; I disagree. The filter only has so much capacity and you can call me old school all day long but I change my oil at no more than 3K miles or 3 months. I'm not saying that is the case here but it is always a good idea.

We've done testing on numerous cam packages in long duration high RPM instances over thousands of miles with Mobil1 and we haven't has issues. I do prefer Red Line personally but it is twice the cost of Mobil1 and I also like the PF48R filters over the PF48. There are other good premium brands out there as well I just prefer Red Line.

She is back together with our Stage II camshaft and new lifters.



I appreciate your support and I'm always happy to answer questions, Dane. I'll let you know when the tuning is buttoned up and she can come back home.

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDP Motorsports View Post
Whenever I get the dreaded call that a customers car has lost oil pressure I cringe.. I've had customers run them for what they think is 30 seconds but the issue is we rely on the warning to alert us opposed to watching the oil pressure; that could be 2 minutes plus of low pressure before a complete pressure loss occurs. This car is very well taken care of so it isn't a maintenance issue.

I've had the stock pumps fail in 100% stock LS cars, in bolt-on LS cars and in LS cars with cam packages. I haven't seen as many until 2010 and we always assumed it was a bad batch from GM; remember there batches are HUGE. We've always replaced the OEM pumps with new OEM units in the 2010 Camaros just to be safe but we've had a few check valves stick this year and we've since gone to the Melling pumps. I talked with our GM rep and they are aware of the issue but in their world it is such a small percentage that it doesn't warrant change; I would disagree.

The scoring on the cam is seen on stock cams as well as aftermarket cams and in this case the cam was pretty mild. I think that the check valve starts to cause lower pressure as it sticks and the first place that suffers from that lack of pressure is the top end. I also think oil should be changed every 3K miles or 3 months; dirty oil can cause these failures as well. I have people tell me their oil is good for 5K miles or their Oil Life Monitor says they have 20% until a change is required; I disagree. The filter only has so much capacity and you can call me old school all day long but I change my oil at no more than 3K miles or 3 months. I'm not saying that is the case here but it is always a good idea.

We've done testing on numerous cam packages in long duration high RPM instances over thousands of miles with Mobil1 and we haven't has issues. I do prefer Red Line personally but it is twice the cost of Mobil1 and I also like the PF48R filters over the PF48. There are other good premium brands out there as well I just prefer Red Line.

She is back together with our Stage II camshaft and new lifters.



I appreciate your support and I'm always happy to answer questions, Dane. I'll let you know when the tuning is buttoned up and she can come back home.

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
888.308.6007
Excellent info! I disagree with the film strength argument made by another poster, as Mobil1 has a very high film strength rating. Zinc...could be a factor, but I would be interested to see some analyses. Several big-name performance builders use and recommend Mobil1 with their builds and installs, so it's hard to know who to believe.
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:17 PM   #24
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What big name performance builders recommend mobil1?
I've heard of redline being good too, no personal experience but I use redline d4 tranny fluid and it's good stuff.

No I'm still not a fan of RP but I've known others here in the area that use it, their formul has changed from what they showed me.
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:41 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
What big name performance builders recommend mobil1?

A few years ago I read a thread where Slohawk recommended 0W40 Mobile 1 exclusively.

He's not an active member on this board anymore but I believe a certain high post count member from the north east has just started using him to wrench on his car
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:53 PM   #26
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Lol yea, does he still use it? Lots has changed in the last few years with the Feds made the oil companies take out zinc and zdpp due to "cats" lifespan.
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:00 PM   #27
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Maybe Jamie can let us know
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:17 PM   #28
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I'll just ask slow hawk tomorrow.
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