Just blew up my 2nd set of turbonetics turbos - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Twin2010 · 11-14-2013, 12:51 PM

First set had bearing material go through them and now after paying 1400 dollars to have them redone one is seized up and the other wobbles around inside the housing like something is broke. Less than 200 miles of driving and only got in the throttle hard a couple of times. I measured the flow of oil to the turbos and was told everything was correct after it was running. Any ideas wtf could be causing this? This is with a complete different motor than it happened with last time.

JLE58 · 11-14-2013, 01:12 PM

ball bearing?

AGP Turbo · 11-14-2013, 01:42 PM

Did you get any failure analysis done on the failed units? We can tell a lot by looking at a failed turbo.

#1-Boost leaks.
Low ZDDP oil.
BOV problem.
Contaminated oil. Where do the oil feed lines get oil from the motor in your kit?

Twin2010 · 11-14-2013, 01:55 PM

It just happened last night so i dont know the details yet. I am getting the oil feed from behind the alternator bracket where the big allen plug was. I have checked everywhere for boost leaks and cant find anything. I would assume with a seized turbo theres an oil problem of some sort

AGP Turbo · 11-14-2013, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twin2010

It just happened last night so i dont know the details yet. I am getting the oil feed from behind the alternator bracket where the big allen plug was. I have checked everywhere for boost leaks and cant find anything. I would assume with a seized turbo theres an oil problem of some sort

That is a non filtered source right off the pump, before the oil goes to the back of the block where the filter is. All the contaminants that would usually get caught in your filter, are being pumped right into the turbos.

K32 Camaro · 11-14-2013, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGP Turbo

That is a non filtered source right off the pump, before the oil goes to the back of the block where the filter is. All the contaminants that would usually get caught in your filter, are being pumped right into the turbos.

O.O ...that's where my YSI feed is too. What do you recommend?

The Stig · 11-14-2013, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K32 Camaro

O.O ...that's where my YSI feed is too. What do you recommend?

a new builder?

Unreal · 11-14-2013, 04:06 PM

Blowers seem to be less sensitive than turbos to contaminates. They dump a bunch of oil over a set of large ball bearings. Turbos have small oil orifices and need clean oil for long life.

You can put a filter on the feed line, or take it from a filtered source.

Mike@RMCR · 11-14-2013, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K32 Camaro

O.O ...that's where my YSI feed is too. What do you recommend?

The YSi has a filter built into the adapter on the supercharger.

AGP Turbo · 11-14-2013, 04:17 PM

We use the filtered source where your oil pressure sensor goes on the back of your valley cover. And filter the oil again after the turbos but before the oil goes back into your motor. Clean oil is a good thing.

FrankT · 11-15-2013, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGP Turbo

We use the filtered source where your oil pressure sensor goes on the back of your valley cover. And filter the oil again after the turbos but before the oil goes back into your motor. Clean oil is a good thing.

That is where my oil supply is hooked up. I had to remove the intake to do it, but it was worth it to get a clean oil supply.

AGP Turbo · 11-15-2013, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankT

That is where my oil supply is hooked up. I had to remove the intake to do it, but it was worth it to get a clean oil supply.

Wise man. It's a very very minor investment of time.

*SSE 4 2SS* · 11-15-2013, 10:54 AM

Op, may I ask what size turbos you have and what cubic inches is the motor... Where are the turbos mounted...

I destroyed several. The first one was due to an improper oil orifice... When that turbo went, the other side went within minutes... Second set, ball bearing, lasted about a year and started rattling... Sent them in, upgraded, then grenaded two of those trying to make boost...as told to me by the manufacturer, we over accelerated/overspun them... We were way outside(to the right) of the boost map... 67 mm turbo in a 429 ci engine... Making 25 lbs of boost... High IATs etc... We knew we were hanging it out but went there anyway...now I have twin 76's...

*SSE 4 2SS* · 11-15-2013, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGP Turbo

We use the filtered source where your oil pressure sensor goes on the back of your valley cover. And filter the oil again after the turbos but before the oil goes back into your motor. Clean oil is a good thing.

This... Clean oil is an absolute must... I also change my Amsoil every 2000-2500 miles...

11-14-2013, 04:06 PM	#8
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	Blowers seem to be less sensitive than turbos to contaminates. They dump a bunch of oil over a set of large ball bearings. Turbos have small oil orifices and need clean oil for long life. You can put a filter on the feed line, or take it from a filtered source. __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

11-15-2013, 10:54 AM	#13
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,477	Op, may I ask what size turbos you have and what cubic inches is the motor... Where are the turbos mounted... I destroyed several. The first one was due to an improper oil orifice... When that turbo went, the other side went within minutes... Second set, ball bearing, lasted about a year and started rattling... Sent them in, upgraded, then grenaded two of those trying to make boost...as told to me by the manufacturer, we over accelerated/overspun them... We were way outside(to the right) of the boost map... 67 mm turbo in a 429 ci engine... Making 25 lbs of boost... High IATs etc... We knew we were hanging it out but went there anyway...now I have twin 76's... __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

11-14-2013, 12:51 PM	#1
Twin2010 Drives: 2010 twin turbo ss Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 306	Just blew up my 2nd set of turbonetics turbos First set had bearing material go through them and now after paying 1400 dollars to have them redone one is seized up and the other wobbles around inside the housing like something is broke. Less than 200 miles of driving and only got in the throttle hard a couple of times. I measured the flow of oil to the turbos and was told everything was correct after it was running. Any ideas wtf could be causing this? This is with a complete different motor than it happened with last time.

11-14-2013, 01:12 PM	#2
JLE58 Drives: CGM,twin turbo, cam 2010 SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: ROCKMART, GA Posts: 2,185	ball bearing?

11-14-2013, 01:42 PM	#3
AGP Turbo Drives: All things Turbocharged Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: AZ Posts: 1,199	Did you get any failure analysis done on the failed units? We can tell a lot by looking at a failed turbo. #1-Boost leaks. Low ZDDP oil. BOV problem. Contaminated oil. Where do the oil feed lines get oil from the motor in your kit?

11-14-2013, 01:55 PM	#4
Twin2010 Drives: 2010 twin turbo ss Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 306	It just happened last night so i dont know the details yet. I am getting the oil feed from behind the alternator bracket where the big allen plug was. I have checked everywhere for boost leaks and cant find anything. I would assume with a seized turbo theres an oil problem of some sort

11-14-2013, 04:17 PM	#10
AGP Turbo Drives: All things Turbocharged Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: AZ Posts: 1,199	We use the filtered source where your oil pressure sensor goes on the back of your valley cover. And filter the oil again after the turbos but before the oil goes back into your motor. Clean oil is a good thing.