02-09-2015, 02:50 PM | #15 |
Drives: 1967-2014 Camaro's Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Athens, GA and Titusville, FLA
Posts: 341
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You could always replace the front and rear sway bars. I will link below what we have.
FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS |
02-12-2015, 01:05 PM | #16 | |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Quote:
Part # JDPS2001 You may also want to pick up the FE4 conversion package at the same time so you can also replace the rear lower control arms during the install and be ready to update to the newer style and be ready for sway bars. This way, you would only have to align once. Part #JDPS1005 Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
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02-12-2015, 01:49 PM | #17 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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^^^ I would agree to everything Tyler said above, except I would not call outer trailing arm bushings or cradle bushings "novice" unless you have the right tools. I was able to get mine out after rigging something up, but they were a PITA.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
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